k6ccc Posted April 18, 2016 Share Posted April 18, 2016 Put the controllers into test mode and see if the colors light correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zvacman Posted April 18, 2016 Author Share Posted April 18, 2016 Dennis: i am using Chinese strips that have 3 wires that go into a plug and also have two mire wires that don't. I'm assuming the two extras are for power injection? I ended up holding the program button on the controller down in an effort to get the green and red leds on the board to stop flashing. They stopped alright, they went off all together and won't come back on. Is there a hard boot that can be done to these, or a solution to the red and green not being on? I'm getting sick of saying this, but HELP! Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenie95125 Posted April 18, 2016 Share Posted April 18, 2016 38 minutes ago, zvacman said: Dennis: i am using Chinese strips that have 3 wires that go into a plug and also have two mire wires that don't. I'm assuming the two extras are for power injection? I ended up holding the program button on the controller down in an effort to get the green and red leds on the board to stop flashing. They stopped alright, they went off all together and won't come back on. Is there a hard boot that can be done to these, or a solution to the red and green not being on? I'm getting sick of saying this, but HELP! Mike Wow, you can't seem to catch a break. Are any of the yellow lights on? When the red and green lights were flashing, were they flashing together (like the start of an override sequence)? This may seem obvious, but have you checked the fuses? If a fuse did blow, you'll need to find out why before you replace it. Lastly, are you sure the pixel string is wired properly? It's easy to do it wrong, especially for a novice. Maybe I'll dig mine out after all... Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis Laff Posted April 18, 2016 Share Posted April 18, 2016 On the strings you bought can you see any markings on what each wire is , about the board when you disconnect the lights can you get the board back on all 5 LEDs on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zvacman Posted April 18, 2016 Author Share Posted April 18, 2016 (edited) The three yellow lights are on. I visually inspected the fuses and they look fine, my meters are at the shop so I can't hit them with a meter until tomorrow. When the red and green were flashing they were doing it together without any variance so it didn't look like a pattern. My pixel strips have 5 wires 3 that go into a plug red,green, and white. The two extra wires are red and white. I assumed the red was + the white was - and the green was data with the two extras being for power injection? When I plug the cat5 into the board there is no led activity on the jack and my wireless doesn't get kicked offline. I have an email into the person I bought the strips from to verify the wire designation but they are in China so who knows what time it is there. Dennis: There are no markings indicating what color does what. I cannot get the red and green leds on the controller to come on. I just dug out one of my old meters and the test on all of the fuses were good. If it helps I ended up where I am by holding down the button while the red and green were flashing until they went off. Mike Edited April 18, 2016 by zvacman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zvacman Posted April 19, 2016 Author Share Posted April 19, 2016 Went through all of the fuses and they checked out ok. All of my outputs are reading 12v EXCEPT 4-1 the same one that I did the pixel test on. Hmmmm? Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wbaker4 Posted April 19, 2016 Share Posted April 19, 2016 Five wires? What pixel type are they? WS2801? Is this any help? http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pixel_Wiring_Colors Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenie95125 Posted April 19, 2016 Share Posted April 19, 2016 6 minutes ago, zvacman said: Went through all of the fuses and they checked out ok. All of my outputs are reading 12v EXCEPT 4-1 the same one that I did the pixel test on. Hmmmm? Mike Mike, I'm really scratching my head here. This board really isn't that difficult to set up, so I don't know why you're having so many issues. You really need to reach out to Jim again. I think at this point he's the only one that will be able to help. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zvacman Posted April 19, 2016 Author Share Posted April 19, 2016 They are WS2811 pixels. Only 3 wires go into the plug and two are just wires. Also I just noticed that the CPU gets a lot warmer on this board than the other, almost hot. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wbaker4 Posted April 19, 2016 Share Posted April 19, 2016 What plug are you supplying power to the board - J19 or J17? Feeding 12 Volts on either one? If feeding 12V on J19 jumpers on J21 should be 1&2 3&4 If feeding 12v on J17 - jumper 1&2 4&5. Make sure jumper j26 is set to atml/on sem I have built several e682 boards - but I am using 5 Volt ws2811. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zvacman Posted April 19, 2016 Author Share Posted April 19, 2016 I am running 12v feeding J18 and J19. My J17 is designated as my 5v output for the 8 gig a bit ethernet switch. J26 jumper is on atml. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k6ccc Posted April 19, 2016 Share Posted April 19, 2016 42 minutes ago, zvacman said: I am running 12v feeding J18 and J19. My J17 is designated as my 5v output for the 8 gig a bit ethernet switch. J26 jumper is on atml. For your testing, I would recommend that you NOT power the switch from the E682 - just to one more potential issue. Since you are feeding 12V to the board, make absolute certain that the power jumpers near the upper right corner of the board are properly set for 12V. The hot CPU chip concerns me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zvacman Posted April 19, 2016 Author Share Posted April 19, 2016 I was running this board solo when I did the test. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis Laff Posted April 19, 2016 Share Posted April 19, 2016 Did all five leds on the board come back on ? do you have any other strings of lights to try and do you have a part number of the lights your using Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenie95125 Posted April 19, 2016 Share Posted April 19, 2016 3 hours ago, zvacman said: I was running this board solo when I did the test. Mike Like Jim, I'm concerned about the hot CPU. I got mine out of storage and have had it running on a test pattern for the last 2 hours and my cpu is barely warm to the touch. My IR thermometer shows it at 95. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wbaker4 Posted April 19, 2016 Share Posted April 19, 2016 Any chance of posting a link showing the pixels you purchased? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zvacman Posted April 19, 2016 Author Share Posted April 19, 2016 This topic has been beaten to death. The controller is boxed up and headed to SanDevices. I would have kept messing with it until the CPU started getting hot. As far as posting a link to the pixel strips I bought, I can't find it. I bought them a year ago and just dug them out for testing. Sorry. I want to thank everyone for all of the help through this. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenie95125 Posted April 19, 2016 Share Posted April 19, 2016 54 minutes ago, zvacman said: This topic has been beaten to death. The controller is boxed up and headed to SanDevices. I would have kept messing with it until the CPU started getting hot. As far as posting a link to the pixel strips I bought, I can't find it. I bought them a year ago and just dug them out for testing. Sorry. I want to thank everyone for all of the help through this. Mike OK. Let us know what Jim comes up with. I's only April, so you've still got plenty of time to work pixels into your display. Good luck. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zvacman Posted April 19, 2016 Author Share Posted April 19, 2016 18 minutes ago, greenie95125 said: OK. Let us know what Jim comes up with. I's only April, so you've still got plenty of time to work pixels into your display. Good luck. Mike To the contrary, within the next couple weeks I will enter my busy season. I will start working 12-16 hours per day 7 days a week. The blinky blinky will take a backseat to eating and sleeping. My Christmas stuff will sit virtually untouched until late August or early September. That is the reason I was such a pain in the backside for the last couple weeks. I'm sure all of you guys couldn't figure out my level of urgency, now you know. Again thanks for the help. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Need more lights Posted April 19, 2016 Share Posted April 19, 2016 (edited) Hey Mike, I'm running the same 2811 leds as you (2 red 2white 1 green) 30 leds per meter. I have a detailed pic of my board and hook up but I can't upload it on here, it's too big. Pm me your e-mail and I'll send it to you. PS on the config page of the controller, did you make sure to tell the board what your chip set was (2811) and hit the update button one the same line? there are a lot of update buttons on the config page and you have to hit them one line at a time or it won't update! Edited April 19, 2016 by Need more lights Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zvacman Posted May 2, 2016 Author Share Posted May 2, 2016 I thought that this horse was beat to death, buuuut, here I am again. I had to buy a new laptop. It's got windows 10. I can't get the controller to connect that was doing just fine on the old computer. I did the cmd, ipconfig and found that the new computer is 169.254.70.161. I tried to force 169.254.74.73 like the manual says. Nothing. I know I'm not doing something, I've missed a step somewhere, help. Thanks Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis Laff Posted May 2, 2016 Share Posted May 2, 2016 read the e-682 manual your forcing the wrong IP address Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zvacman Posted May 2, 2016 Author Share Posted May 2, 2016 I tried both that are in the manual, 192.168.1.206 and 169.254.74.73 neither worked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis Laff Posted May 2, 2016 Share Posted May 2, 2016 You have to have 169.254.70 because that's not listed it explains how to get it in the manual Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wbaker4 Posted May 2, 2016 Share Posted May 2, 2016 Do yourself a huge favor and buy a router. Configure it for 192.168.1.X Connect your computer to one if it's ports (1-4) - not the uplink port. Reboot your computer. Run ipconfig and you should have an IP address like 192.168.1.2. Connect the E682 up to the router (port 1-4) and power it up. Assuming you didn't change its default IP address, you should be able to connect to using 192.168.1.206. Use cables - no wifi to start. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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