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E682 initial setup


zvacman

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1 hour ago, zvacman said:

Dennis:

I know that's what you meant, but it's not a chance I want to take with the work computers.

Z

I mentioned this before, but I'm not sure I wasn't clear. I found the manual so here's a copy: 

For Ver 1.3 PC boards only:  Install a shunt at J26.  This should be across the bottom 2 pins if the eeprom IC is an ATMEL or ON SEMI (24M01A) part.  Only if the eeprom is a Microchip part, install the jumper across the 2 upper pins.  As of this writing (06/2014) only Atmel and ON Semi parts are being supplied.

Double check that jumper. It was my problem

Mike

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Mike:

I have the jumper on the two lower pins because that's how I interpeted that part of the instructions. I thought about moving it up last night for grins, but I was afraid to let the magic smoke out of the controller. I think putting a date in where they had "at the time of this writing" would have been better.

Mike

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15 minutes ago, zvacman said:

Mike:

I have the jumper on the two lower pins because that's how I interpeted that part of the instructions. I thought about moving it up last night for grins, but I was afraid to let the magic smoke out of the controller. I think putting a date in where they had "at the time of this writing" would have been better.

Mike

I agree completely! My board is packed away so I can't check, but you should be able to identify the main eeprom to see where that jumper belongs. Hopefully Jim gets back to you soon.

Mike

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It will be a week tomorrow since I sent him the first email. My show is going to require 2 more pixel controllers this year (due more to distance than channel count). I'm thinking about going with Falcon for the other two. Any experience with those?

Mike

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Mike,

Having all your cards that behave and are programmed the same is an advantage.  My opinion (for whatever that's worth) is you should resolve the E682 issue and then continue using that product line so you don't have to learn something else.

 

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I agree with Jim solve this problem first ,I have 2 E-682's and 3 E-6804,s never had any problems with them.  Any board you try that is E1-31 needs to be setup the same way on the computer 

Edited by Dennis Laff
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Maybe it's time to continue troubleshooting by isolating your controller?   Do you have a lighting enthusiast local to you that you can test your controller in their network to see if it can connect.  I'd be happy to help, but I'm a bit of a drive.

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Bizywk:

I agree that further testing is needed, but I don't know of anybody within several hours of me that does this. I am going to take a couple more shots at connecting the boards.  If I don't have something by the end of the weekend they are going into Mylar bags and getting boxed up to go back to Sandevices.

Mike

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2 hours ago, zvacman said:

Bizywk:

I agree that further testing is needed, but I don't know of anybody within several hours of me that does this. I am going to take a couple more shots at connecting the boards.  If I don't have something by the end of the weekend they are going into Mylar bags and getting boxed up to go back to Sandevices.

Mike

Shoot another email off to Jim stating that you need an RMA if you can't get it figured out. I'm sure he'd rather fix your problem via email, than have to deal with a return.

Mike

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Holy crap!!!! I came home from work and hit every friggin solder joint on the stinkin board even if they were perfect and it connected. I have no idea what to do now but it connected! Thanks everyone for putting up with my pissy crybaby mood.

Z

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21 minutes ago, zvacman said:

Holy crap!!!! I came home from work and hit every friggin solder joint on the stinkin board even if they were perfect and it connected. I have no idea what to do now but it connected! Thanks everyone for putting up with my pissy crybaby mood.

Yea!!!

You would not be the first person that has had that solution to a PC board problem - especially home soldered.  Unless you really know what to look for, it can be hard to spot a poor solder connection - and even if you DO know what to look for they can be hard.  Reheating everything often helps fix issues like that.

Glad you got it working.

No problem with your lousy mood.

 

 

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Jim:

My job requires soldering on a daily basis just not things as tiny as these boards. I have built literally 100's of boards in my life but they normally have much larger components that aren't nearly as picky as these. That's why I was having a hard time thinking that it was a soldering issue.  I am a hobby chicken farmer and now I have egg on my face, kind of fitting I guess.  Thanks again, you went above and beyond on this situation. You haven't heard the last of me I'm sure.

Mike

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Ok throwing this out there for anyone.  Before I disconnect this controller and move on to the second one, while on the config page, should I change the IP address of this controller from 192.168.1.206 to say 192.168.1.207?

Z

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I understand the "small components" issue. I also solder professionally as a small part of my job. Later this year I will be soldering almost 600 WS2812 pixels (that's a 5.0mm by 5.0mm RGB LED with the WS2811 controller built in - in a surface mount package) onto PC boards as the major part of my pixel star rebuild. Lots of small soldering for that. Not gonna be fun, but I should be far better at soldering surface mount components by the time I'm completed. A good magnifying lens / light combination makes it FAR easier!

Sent from my Droid Turbo via Tapatalk

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Ok Jim, I mean this in the nicest way. You're a freak.  Hopefully you picked up enough of my personality the other night to know.... That there was funny.  I think my eye prescription has changed in the last two weeks from these boards.  When you are done with the pixels you're going to need a cane and a dog.

Mike

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Damn, I'm already at 14 diopters of eye correction. That means I can read the big E on the eye chart at about 5 feet...

Yea, I understood you humor.

Sent from my Droid Turbo via Tapatalk

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Hey everyone. In case you haven't heard I got one controller to connect! Before I disconnect it should I change its IP address?

Z

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You should change the very last number add then a different number on the second controller.    Don't forget after you change the IP address go to bottom of page and click on restart controller you must do that to change ip address

Edited by Dennis Laff
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What the heck?  Last night I didn't change the IP on the controller that connected.  Tonight it won't connect again.  If these things are so fragile/finicky I'm not sure if I want to continue with them.  Nothing got touched. I turned off the power to it, unplugged the Ethernet cord and shut down the computer.  Is there a shut down procedure that I didn't follow?

Mike

Edited by zvacman
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