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Connection of dangles to Pixie 16


Mica

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I am trying to connect my dangles to the connectors. I only getting first light to turn on. I received the 3 wire dangles red black and yellowwires, a bag of 4 wire green connectors, and a tiny screwdriver. 

     Here is my problem. 1st wire on left is Red? 2nd spot Blank? 3rd spot is yellow and 4th spot on right is Black for Ground?

     Of this is so, I  am only getting the 1st RGB Bullet light in the string to turn on. What am I  doing wrong?

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Posted Images

screws facing up. L->R : Black, Yellow, skip, Red

If you place a connector in place, you will see markings on the board.

- data clk +

We don't need the clock for most Pixels

?? You said bag of 4 but your title says Pixie 16 ?? All Pixies use the same connectors, wired the same.

Just be careful IF you end up with 5V AND 12V nodes. A BANK on Pixie8 or 16 can support either but NOT BOTH

 

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4 minutes ago, Mica said:

My controller is a pixie 16. The connector is green with 4 ports. The board shows me +CLK DT -

A port as we use it is The Connection to a string.

Your board has 16 Ports. The TERMINAL/Connector has 4 terminals. The order L<>L  depends on how you look.

+ is Red

- Black

Data Yellow

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img_1687226912156.thumb.jpg.a728206dac67606003a789ee1d2cb75e.jpg

1 hour ago, TheDucks said:

A port as we use it is The Connection to a string.

Your board has 16 Ports. The TERMINAL/Connector has 4 terminals. The order L<>L  depends on how you look.

+ is Red

- Black

Data Yellow

This is what I have 

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If you are still having only 1 node lighting, you may be accessing them the wrong way. Is the test failing using HU?

BTW Where did you get the nodes. Those wires look like mine from HC. (WS2811 800Hz)

You also need to configure the Pixie for Node chip type

BTW Pixies have a simple test sequence built in. With the controller powered and nodes attached. Simply do a short press on the white button.

The nodes (starting at 1) Light one after another until all, then they start over with another color (R,G,B)

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33 minutes ago, TheDucks said:

If you are still having only 1 node lighting, you may be accessing them the wrong way. Is the test failing using HU?

BTW Where did you get the nodes. Those wires look like mine from HC. (WS2811 800Hz)

You also need to configure the Pixie for Node chip type

BTW Pixies have a simple test sequence built in. With the controller powered and nodes attached. Simply do a short press on the white button.

The nodes (starting at 1) Light one after another until all, then they start over with another color (R,G,B)

3 hours ago, TheDucks said:

A port as we use it is The Connection to a string.

Your board has 16 Ports. The TERMINAL/Connector has 4 terminals. The order L<>L  depends on how you look.

+ is Red

- Black

Data Yellow

 

2 hours ago, Jimehc said:

Board Terminal Connector.jpg

 

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34 minutes ago, TheDucks said:

If you are still having only 1 node lighting, you may be accessing them the wrong way. Is the test failing using HU?

BTW Where did you get the nodes. Those wires look like mine from HC. (WS2811 800Hz)

You also need to configure the Pixie for Node chip type

BTW Pixies have a simple test sequence built in. With the controller powered and nodes attached. Simply do a short press on the white button.

The nodes (starting at 1) Light one after another until all, then they start over with another color (R,G,B)

I got mine from holiday coro and the pixie 16 from LOR. I tried the test lights function in the control panel after I connected the controller in HU. 

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If you have selected an incorrect parameter in the Pixie16 in the HU setup area, this one node only or no nodes lighting can occur.  I use HC RGB lighting and all work perfectly with my Pixie16D controller.  I'm using HC 12V RGB, Strawberry 50 ct, flat nodes 12V 50ct, all 3 wire, NO CLOCK CONNECTION, and my settings are 150 channels per port, and WS2811 800Hz, have had no issues with any of my HC RGB lights, including 8 of their 10Watt RGB floodlights.

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I would double check the wires on the pixels and not just go by the color of the wires. Each pixel is marked with +  -  Data that you can see with a magnifying glass. Trace the wire and ensure they are are corresponding to the wire color. Each pixel manufacture uses their own wire order and the dangles wire color may be wrong.

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I use HC 12V WS2811 800Hz (~ 1000 nodes) on all my Pixie 4 and Pixie8.

@Mica I was referring to the White Test/Rest button ON THE PIXIE. Can't get more of a basic test than that.

BTW Port 1 on a Pixie can be set to blink Node  1  (status, so you don't need to uncover the controller) upon power up.  It goes out the first sequence command.

Mr P, IIRC recent HC strings light all blue if no data (I have old and newer strings)

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43 minutes ago, TheDucks said:

I use HC 12V WS2811 800Hz (~ 1000 nodes) on all my Pixie 4 and Pixie8.

@Mica I was referring to the White Test/Rest button ON THE PIXIE. Can't get more of a basic test than that.

BTW Port 1 on a Pixie can be set to blink Node  1  (status, so you don't need to uncover the controller) upon power up.  It goes out the first sequence command.

Mr P, IIRC recent HC strings light all blue if no data (I have old and newer strings)

Mine just flash blue when connected, but it's a quick flash, then completely dark.  I also have my RGB controllers all set to flash the first pixel when power is first plugged in, or will show an indication of a few blinks if unplugged and plugged back in, or an interruption in power for some reason.  But mine never stay lit, nor do any of my strings light up fully, and I also have older and newest RGB strings from HC as well.  Even with my HC smart 10 watt floods, only the first one in the chain lights up when power is first applied.  Have never seen all 4 flash blue that are connected to a port on my Pixie16 or my Pixie2 controllers.  The 1st bulb on a string will blink a few times, then turn off, the floods, just first one flashes blue one time and then off.  I have yet to see an entire strand blink or stay steady on blue until a sequence turns it off.

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9 hours ago, Orville said:

Mine just flash blue when connected, but it's a quick flash, then completely dark.  I also have my RGB controllers all set to flash the first pixel when power is first plugged in, or will show an indication of a few blinks if unplugged and plugged back in, or an interruption in power for some reason.  But mine never stay lit, nor do any of my strings light up fully, and I also have older and newest RGB strings from HC as well.  Even with my HC smart 10 watt floods, only the first one in the chain lights up when power is first applied.  Have never seen all 4 flash blue that are connected to a port on my Pixie16 or my Pixie2 controllers.  The 1st bulb on a string will blink a few times, then turn off, the floods, just first one flashes blue one time and then off.  I have yet to see an entire strand blink or stay steady on blue until a sequence turns it off.

That is exactly what happened . Once I wired the connectors correctly. I found out that fully assembled isn't. Lol

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2 hours ago, Mica said:

That is exactly what happened . Once I wired the connectors correctly. I found out that fully assembled isn't. Lol

I believe the "fully assembled" refers to a Pixie16 with LOR dangles installed, if you use HC quick connects (Xconnect connectors) and are not using the LOR connectors they usually don't refer to it as fully assembled, although I'd call it semi-fully assembled if you are using any other connector other than the LOR connectors, the LOR connectors come fully wired up and installed under the Fully Assembled versions.  So you just connect your LOR lights to the fully assembled version, but if using other branded connectors (Non-LOR), then you have to install your dangles of choice to the connector terminals using the correct wiring, as you found out.

Happens to the best of us. :)

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16 hours ago, Orville said:

I believe the "fully assembled" refers to a Pixie16 with LOR dangles installed, if you use HC quick connects (Xconnect connectors) and are not using the LOR connectors they usually don't refer to it as fully assembled, although I'd call it semi-fully assembled if you are using any other connector other than the LOR connectors, the LOR connectors come fully wired up and installed under the Fully Assembled versions.  So you just connect your LOR lights to the fully assembled version, but if using other branded connectors (Non-LOR), then you have to install your dangles of choice to the connector terminals using the correct wiring, as you found out.

Happens to the best of us. :)

I am learning. Lol I am not an electrician by any stretch but I am very good at research and asking. 

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I have the controller installed on the control panel and I have 1 blue light on every  string. Where can I  go to see how to get the strings  to fully light? I have watched several YouTube videos and either they are using older software or don't show step by step how to setup Pixel lights. I am trying to create RGB Leaping Arches. But I  need to know how to connect these lights first.

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there is a white "test button" on the pixie board - give it a quick push - do you get chasing color ?

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https://www.holidaycoro.com/kb_results.asp?ID=168

The (yellow) data line is not getting a CORRECT signal. (According to HC and my experience, a bad connection results in ALL), so I will go whit you have set your Pixie wrong.  💡 Make sure there IS NOT a jumper on JP5, that overrides HU settings (Park the jumper on ONE PIN ONLY )

If the last part of a string is blue (no show running), there is a node with a bad chip (DO ->DI  it is a dice toss which, but I usually pick the first bad node))

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In addition to the previous. Make sure your Pixie is setup (in HU) to look like P16  (advanced button used because I have color ORDER issues with normal). The 100 can say 50 IF the longest string is 50 (Self test uses this number, so if it says 50, only the first 50 on a port get tested. The inverse is also true. If it says 100, the self test sends 100 changes before the next pattern starts)

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