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TheDucks

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TheDucks last won the day on December 28 2020

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About TheDucks

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Orcutt, Santa Maria, CA
  • Occupation
    retired ElectronicTech (Navy and Civilian)

More About Me

  • Interests
    e-book reading and formatting, HiFi (surround sound), Home Electronics
  • Favorite Decorating Holiday?
    Xmas and Haloween

LOR Software

  • LOR Software Version
    4.4.14
  • License Level
    Pro

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. Check the seal material when you open it. if it is a dry O-ring, maybe a little silicon GREASE. Avoid gluing when possible. Maybe Form-a-gasket if the seal is torn or damaged. You want something removable.
  2. Moisture trapped will lead to corrosion. IMHO Allow it to stabilize temp in a dry location (while your humidity is low 😛 ) , open it up and let it dry out, then seal . (Opening up while cold will condense more moisture inside) A recharged silica pack in the back box may help KEEP it dry.
  3. Plastic Milk 1/2 gal jugs 3/4 full (leaves room for expansion), almost free 😀
  4. Good tip. IIRC they also have 'direct burial' rated wire that resists UV
  5. AMPS over distance = voltage drop Sprinkler wire is 18 Ga. Also Sprinklers usually only run 1 zone at a time, so Amps to zone is the same as Amps on the common. So double up the common if you go this route to avoid weird color shifts.
  6. Also Be sure that the clamp does not have the insulation in the jaw. Also be sure to use Data, not the Clock terminal (unused for 3 wire nodes) Bk-Yel-skipped-Rd
  7. What is the roof material? There are 'Ridge clips' that hold C9 style upright.
  8. Repeats, as in squares it back up. Data is a square wave (1 or 0 ). Voltage drop ON THE SIGNAL (data) line is not usually the issue.
  9. Pixies DO NOT run on a ELL (or the same network) Remember to get a RED adapter for your Pixie
  10. Build a missing Pulse detector ( w/555 timers ?) add a TICK channel to your sequence. If it fails to come along at the proper interval, the detector latches/counts.
  11. Absolutely. I run a number of monochrome, 12V bulbs (10 bulb 120V mini-strings use 12V bulbs, simply rewire in parallel instead of series) You can also run each bank at different Voltage. Do try and run Bank 1 at 12V (or higher) if your other bank needs to be 5V. You can run a bank at 24V DC (a common control voltage)
  12. Part 15 is about Interference with other devices. In the early days, computers splattered the local airwaves making TV and Radio hard to use. Nowdays, every electronic device that has a clock (signal), needs to comply. (A lot of stuff from China, fake that label and it gets by until someone complains about interference and it get tracked down to the device. Note: just because a device HAS A VALID Part 15 label, does not mean YOU can operate it in a way that does interfere with others. Hams go to extreme measures to keep their neighbors happy. (My neighbor brought over a ferrite core
  13. A very good resource to see where the stations you might need to miss. Look at the 'Polar' for direction and the longer bars. Those you want to miss. Anything over 60db down will not probably be receivable anyway. A more directional signal on your part (not a whip or dipole) will also help get your sig where YOU want it. TUNE your antenna for your freq. http://www.fmfool.com/index.php?option=com_wrapper&Itemid=29 Click start here, enter your address and antenna height.
  14. LOR has 'Y' cables for their DUMB RGB floods. HC has 'Y's' for THEIR system. I will assume 🙃 that Ray Wu has similar.
  15. Fades are not the only things (dimming curve) to avoid. IF it has electronics, DO not jerk those around with fast ON/off's. by fast, I mean cycles shorter than minutes. Turning ON is the hardest on anything. Remember those room lights that went pop as you flipped the switch? room temp >>1000's NOW Relays are a great way to switch bigger loads than the TRIAC can handle. NO CMB24/16? Use an AC coil relay from your AC controller
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