Jump to content

TheDucks

Members
  • Content Count

    2,257
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    12

TheDucks last won the day on October 19

TheDucks had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

183 Excellent

2 Followers

About TheDucks

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Orcutt, Santa Maria, CA
  • Occupation
    retired ElectronicTech (Navy and Civilian)

More About Me

  • Interests
    e-book reading and formatting, HiFi (surround sound), Home Electronics
  • Favorite Decorating Holiday?
    Xmas and Haloween

LOR Software

  • LOR Software Version
    4.4.12
  • License Level
    Pro

Recent Profile Visitors

2,950 profile views
  1. Looking at that LCC: (it is a really a text file. Open it with Notepad++ (it handles XML and other programming languages) You have multiple uses of the same ID in places: OF (16) was one I am surprised verifier did not squawk
  2. The manual you showed is the one that ALSO comes with the DIY kit . It is not wrong. It was the one to assemble. Then you wee to use the USERS Guide that comes with both versions (This is not the same if you solder the board parts)
  3. I always have this quandary : Is it a bad output of Node1 or a bad Node2 input. But I see it was a poor connection. The other check, its to always swap ports to see if the issue follows the string or stays with the port
  4. Your board came with a Yellow booklet, which can explain better than I. BUT if you did not move that JP3 jumper. 1st: Is this a Factory assembled unit or the DIY (just the final assy) kit? It may be that your FW is corrupt. Connect ONLY this box to your adapter. Does HU find anything? (might say boot loader)? If it does: Download the firmware for your model (should be gen3 because of the Green LED) from LOR. Follow the procedure at the end of the manual for updating Firmware
  5. Fast says the board is in RESET. Had you moved the JP3 jumper to the Reset position? You need to power off and move it back to pins 4+5
  6. OK Answering my own post. The CTB16PC Gen3 was corrupt and must have been spewing to the other 5 controllers on the Net. At first I thought there was a standalone show in one of the controllers, so I reset every one Then I noticed: HU showed the FW as 1.1? for ID 01 (this glitch may have been the reason the GFCI tripped. Random fast, non-visible changes. We will see tonite
  7. The LOR doc sit has (assembly) after the name You want: Sorry about the Gap, I tried to past the text only) CTB16PCg3 Residential light controller, Generation 3, 16 channels. 30 amp in PVC enclosure
  8. Wrong manual. That is the Assembly one
  9. I just spent a few hours chasing this. CMB24 FW 1.05 ( ID's 3,5,7) Net AuxB LOR 4.4.12 Pro Control Panel started. Red LED on all units steady. No schedule, No HU or SE loaded. Channels 1, 5 ad 6 Flash on every 30 seconds or so. (error/status flash?) I did a reset (sw 12) on all 3 units IF I load SE, but no sequence: 1,5,6 are steady FWIW I have also seen CTB16PC (ID 8) turn on 1 string NB I have 2 more CMB24 (on AuxA), but ports 1 and 2 are not used at this time Anybody else seeing this wierdness
  10. The answer to Q2: None (OK, it might run a Pixie2) Basic is 2 ID's. For Pixels you really want PRO so you can use Enhanced mode. Pixel controllers consume ID per port , so a Pixie 4 need 4 ID's (you just set the first and it grabs the net 3) Q1 is a can o worms. This is not like the AC controllers, where just a longer Extension cord is a solution. Voltage drop is your enemy. Fatter (lower Gauge number) wire will stave it off for a bit. Using 12V vs 5V will reduce the current needed. While the newer Pixies do permit longer cables to the strings, they are still way more fu
  11. I split things up a bit to different GFCI outlets. We will see which one trips. Note: this is not an immediate trip. the sequence runs a few hours. BTW It is way too dry (I checked inside boxes)
  12. What is the bulb Base? Wires folded over a plastic prong? For those, you usually unfold the old and pull out, the reverse, trimming the excess lead so it lays in the grouve.
  13. I just joined having this issue last night. 🥺 Why no lights, they were working when I changed a AC string out (way too dim) for another DUMB RGB one (connected to a nearby CMB24). All the controllers on that one have been powered for days. This GFCI is new (I upgraded the garage outlets that had NO GFCI) less than 6 Months ago.
×
×
  • Create New...