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Transmitter???


Wynell Lewis

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CKSedg wrote:

"Milli Vanilii?" And I thought it meant one THOUSANDTH of a vanilla wafer! About how much my wife lets me eat on my diet!


Move to Missouri and maybe you can have "thousands" of vanilla wafers instead. :P
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Surfing4Dough wrote:

CKSedg wrote:
"Milli Vanilii?" And I thought it meant one THOUSANDTH of a vanilla wafer! About how much my wife lets me eat on my diet!


Move to Missouri and maybe you can have "thousands" of vanilla wafers instead. :P

LOL. Talk about "hijacking a thread" and getting off topic! :shock:;):D
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Orville wrote:

Surfing4Dough wrote:
CKSedg wrote:
"Milli Vanilii?" And I thought it meant one THOUSANDTH of a vanilla wafer! About how much my wife lets me eat on my diet!


Move to Missouri and maybe you can have "thousands" of vanilla wafers instead. :P

LOL. Talk about "hijacking a thread" and getting off topic! :shock:;):D

Yes, it happens all the time; but it's fun with the good people here!
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Surfing4Dough wrote:

CKSedg wrote:
"Milli Vanilii?" And I thought it meant one THOUSANDTH of a vanilla wafer! About how much my wife lets me eat on my diet!


Move to Missouri and maybe you can have "thousands" of vanilla wafers instead. :P

Well, I don't plan on moving to Missouri, but I have been there 25+ times. I was the International President of a printing association which is headquartered in Liberty, Missouri.
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Orville wrote:

Surfing4Dough wrote:
CKSedg wrote:
"Milli Vanilii?" And I thought it meant one THOUSANDTH of a vanilla wafer! About how much my wife lets me eat on my diet!


Move to Missouri and maybe you can have "thousands" of vanilla wafers instead. :P

LOL. Talk about "hijacking a thread" and getting off topic! :shock:;):D

I think you started it Orv, by trying to define milliwatt.
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George Simmons wrote:

Sometimes when a thread has run it's course, hijacking is the only humane thing left to do...

Plus many of the other posts in this thread were getting just too long to read.
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George Simmons wrote:

Sometimes when a thread has run it's course, hijacking is the only humane thing left to do...

+1. Great point, George!
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Surfing4Dough wrote:

Orville wrote:
Surfing4Dough wrote:
CKSedg wrote:
"Milli Vanilii?" And I thought it meant one THOUSANDTH of a vanilla wafer! About how much my wife lets me eat on my diet!


Move to Missouri and maybe you can have "thousands" of vanilla wafers instead. ;)

LOL. Talk about "hijacking a thread" and getting off topic! :shock:;):D

I think you started it Orv, by trying to define milliwatt.

Well they did ask by posting: "milliwatt?" So it really wasn't hijacking at that point as I was just trying to get a definition for the OP when that came up.
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:shock:
Well I stepped into it, didn't I? Never mind answering, I know, I did. LOL

I missed what happened after my last post by skipping to the 3rd page. then I realized I best back up and now I can see I started the major OT. You all are going to have to come up here to mizzery and learn how to talk like a ozark hill billy. Not to be confuzed with them floppy eared Tennessee hill billys.
:P

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I know everyone says get the EDM, but I am afraid of soldering, never done it before. I could possibly find someone that can do it for me. Otherwise, what does anyone have to say about the .5W Fail Safe Transmitter. It seems to have good reviews on Amazon.com.

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CShuler wrote:

I know everyone says get the EDM, but I am afraid of soldering, never done it before. I could possibly find someone that can do it for me. Otherwise, what does anyone have to say about the .5W Fail Safe Transmitter. It seems to have good reviews on Amazon.com.


This topic comes up every 2-3 months. Truse me, you can do the soldering. It is one piece that needs connected. There is nothing intricate about that one connection (even for a non-solderer like myself). Three holes to fill. See photos below. Just touch the hot soldering iron tip to one of the silver ovals (touching both the oval and the upright tab) for 5 seconds and then touch the solder to this area and it will quickly melt and fill the hole. Repeat for the other 2 tabs. Wait 5 seconds for it to "dry" or cool, and you are done. It will take about 10 times longer for the 5 minutes it takes the soldering iron to heat up initially after plugging it than it does to complete the solder/assembly. I bought a $10 soldering iron from Walmart to get the job done.

Some have said that it is so easy that even a monkey could do it...I agree and would even clarify that the monkey never soldered before and wasn't even very handy. Many here have questioned us on this and were nervous--most eventually trust us and give it a try and I haven't heard of anybody messing it up or regretting doing so.

attachment.php?id=14432

And Max-Paul has stated the following with regards to this:

Max-Paul wrote:
For those of you who have never soldiered, a bit of advise to go along with the above post. Buy a little pencil soldering iron from Radio Shack and a small spool of soldier. Plug in the iron and let it warm up for a couple of minutes. Test to see if it is up to temperature by touching the tip with the end of the soldier. If it just bends over, it is still way to cold. But if it melts and gives off a wisp of smoke, then you are ready.

I like to wet the tip with soldier, just a small half beads worth. This helps with the transfer of heat to the circuit board and pin. I then touch the solder to the opposite side of the pin. This insures that the pin and circuit board is hot enough for the solder to flow properly and greatly reduces the chance for a cold soldier joint. A good joint will be somewhat shiny. A cold soldier joint will be dull and rough finish. Cold soldier joints will break contact between the pin and the circuit board causing the transmitter to stop working and lights to go dim and then bright and eventually to go out. But cold soldier joints can be cleaned up and redone so not the end of the world. Above picture is what you want yours to look like when done. Frankly I like mine with just a bit more soldier for strength when soldiering on jacks that get a bit of abuse.
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I am honored that you should find that old post and quote it Surfing4dough.

I only have problem with the text below the pictures that said something to the effect of "tough the solder between the iron and the pin". That is incorrect and can lead to cold solder joints. The correct place to add solder is to the pin and pad 180 degrees in relationship to the iron and pin.

Some people are naturals at soldering. Others just a bit of learning. This is not a real hard 1st time soldering job. And 99% of you should be able to do this with minor to no problems. The only other word of advise I can give anyone is that if your iron is on the board and pin more than 30 Seconds. Remove the iron and analyze what might be wrong. Is the iron up to temperature? Did you wet the iron tip with solder? stay on the board or pin to long and you can char the board or melt the plastic of the connector you are trying to solder to the board.

again, truly honored.

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Max-Paul wrote:

I am honored that you should find that old post and quote it Surfing4dough.

I only have problem with the text below the pictures that said something to the effect of "tough the solder between the iron and the pin". That is incorrect and can lead to cold solder joints. The correct place to add solder is to the pin and pad 180 degrees in relationship to the iron and pin.

Some people are naturals at soldering. Others just a bit of learning. This is not a real hard 1st time soldering job. And 99% of you should be able to do this with minor to no problems. The only other word of advise I can give anyone is that if your iron is on the board and pin more than 30 Seconds. Remove the iron and analyze what might be wrong. Is the iron up to temperature? Did you wet the iron tip with solder? stay on the board or pin to long and you can char the board or melt the plastic of the connector you are trying to solder to the board.

again, truly honored.

The text in the photo is why I included your clarification, since it was more detailed and accurate--especially for a non-solderer like myself. That photo text is what is in the instruction manual that came with the EDM, which I also meant to include in the post above (page 6). EDM's expertise is FM transmitters, not soldering instructions apparently.

http://www.edmdesign.com/docs/EDM-TX-RDS.pdf
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Max-Paul wrote:

I am honored that you should find that old post and quote it Surfing4dough.

I only have problem with the text below the pictures that said something to the effect of "tough the solder between the iron and the pin". That is incorrect and can lead to cold solder joints. The correct place to add solder is to the pin and pad 180 degrees in relationship to the iron and pin.

Some people are naturals at soldering. Others just a bit of learning. This is not a real hard 1st time soldering job. And 99% of you should be able to do this with minor to no problems. The only other word of advise I can give anyone is that if your iron is on the board and pin more than 30 Seconds. Remove the iron and analyze what might be wrong. Is the iron up to temperature? Did you wet the iron tip with solder? stay on the board or pin to long and you can char the board or melt the plastic of the connector you are trying to solder to the board.

again, truly honored.


That's not the only damage you can do, if you leave the soldering iron on a pad for too long it can lift the pad and when you remove the soldering iron, the pad will come off the board with it, then you will have to get a replacement board as now there is nothing for the lead you're soldering to hold onto. You could try soldering a jumper wire to the trace the pad was connected too and to the lead, but in a case like this where it's a power jack, you're going to have some real problems. And would need a replacement board.

Never solder anything for more than 10 seconds or damage can occur to the board, traces or pads. This was *always* drilled into me in solder school where I had to be CERTIFIED to solder every year when I worked in the Electronics industry, especially to military specifications! Commercial specs are only slightly more lapse and say 12-15 seconds, but the shorter amount of time an soldering iron is on a board the better.

From someone who worked in the industry doing soldering and re-work/touch-up/repairs on PCB's (Printed Circuit Boards) for well over 40+ years.
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IN this case, I defer to Orville's back ground. I worked with people who where certified to military specs. I used to work out in St. Charles, MO. Where McDonnell Douglas had their Electronic Co. Such as the HUD unit on the F15. Should of heard them gals laugh at my soldering joints. I think it is cause I like to use a wee bit more solder on the joint. If all of the circuit boards on a jet was soldered by me. The jet would have at least 5 more pounds if not 10 due to the extra solder.

So, if you dont get a good flow of solder by 15 seconds. Remove the iron and review what is going on, why is it not working right?

Thanks Orville for that correction.

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