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      1/18/2018 - LOR has resumed operations after the fire   01/17/2018

      As of 1/18 we have resumed operations.  On 1/16 a fire occurred in the same building that houses the main LOR offices and manufacturing.    More information can be found in 'Important Announcements'.    
brichi

Connecting P10 LED panels to LOR?

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As I tell people, it is so much easier to decide what you want to change, when you can look at this year's display.  I figure I have the following year pretty well planned out prior to the current year's show ending.  I also want to be able to start sequencing (or at build the Visualizer changes) in February.  Next year may be more involved assuming that the SuperStar integration is improved in S5 as I will have to change a bunch of stuff to make that migration.  I have been playing with S5 beta versions, but had no intention of moving my 2017 show to S5.  However I assume I will move to S5 by the time I start 2018 sequencing...

 

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same here, I like having the ideas now, little by little buy so u don't feel it all at once and then work on it in the summer outside for me when its 80-90 degrees and not 20 lol

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22 hours ago, brichi said:

is that all aluminum you used for the frame? trying to look at best options to encase the panel

the guy that built mine for me ordered it from Ray Wu.

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I have considered building a p10 matrix but wasn't sure if LOR could control it. It looks like now I see that it can. Hopefully I will have one for 2018!!!

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Im hoping LOR can too, hopefully i get everything in next week, right now all i have is the beaglebone, still waiting on the P10 panels and the octoscroller

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2 minutes ago, brichi said:

Im hoping LOR can too, hopefully i get everything in next week, right now all i have is the beaglebone, still waiting on the P10 panels and the octoscroller

Keep us posted on your build and how everything goes please. Thanks

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9 hours ago, brichi said:

Im hoping LOR can too, hopefully i get everything in next week, right now all i have is the beaglebone, still waiting on the P10 panels and the octoscroller

did you order the boscoyo brackets and the ribbon cables?

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I'm considering building a P10 panel to replace my holiday Coro Singing Trees.

This will be my third P10 panel in the show. 

By using a P10 panel I'll have the option of putting up whatever face I choose to match the music that I'm playing instead of being stuck with just the 4 images of trees. 

If you're going to go with the beaglebone definitely use Dan's image. 

He made some improvements to His Image which allows you to limit the outputs to only what you have connected so that you can maximize your refresh rate. 

It also has support for P5 panels and other scan rates other than 1/8. 

Edited by Ebuechner

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12 minutes ago, brichi said:

I have the latest beta installed from here - http://dankulp.com/bbb/

im assuming thats what you mean?

 

 

 

Yes, I believe that's the one. 

Right now my panels are running off of  Pi's but I have a beaglebone showing up tomorrow to try with Dan's image to see if I can improve upon a couple of minor glitches. 

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oh nice, please keep me posted, I'm all new at this so i am a little lost until i actually have the equipment to start testing, 

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1 hour ago, Ebuechner said:

I'm considering building a P10 panel to replace my holiday Coro Singing Trees.

This will be my third P10 panel in the show. 

By using a P10 panel I'll have the option of putting up whatever face I choose to match the music that I'm playing instead of being stuck with just the 4 images of trees. 

If you're going to go with the beaglebone definitely use Dan's image. 

He made some improvements to His Image which allows you to limit the outputs to only what you have connected so that you can maximize your refresh rate. 

It also has support for P5 panels and other scan rates other than 1/8. 

Listen to Ed you must, Zen Master of P10's he is (** in my best Yoda voice**).

Ed helped me get my head around how these things work (and stopped me from over-analyzing the product, sequencing, network, et al).

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My testing with a beaglebone is going to be done next month after the panels come down.

I know you mentioned keeping it light and hanging them from the window, this is exactly what I did.

My panels are only about 2 1/2 inches thick and I custom welded some brackets that allow me to hang the panel from my casement window without having to screw anything into the house.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BwDgEpqsgNhfSzVGYVFoalRWMWc

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very nice. Similar to what i want to do but its a double window so roughly 56 panels for a 85"x60" (rough estimate). whats the white panel u used in the back? GoBoard?

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The back on the small P10 is the fiberglass wallboard.

On the large P10 I bought a roll of aluminum and use that like shingles on the back overlapping each other to allow for ventilation while preventing the water from getting in.

The aluminum roll was the lightest option to cover the back because my panel is over 4 foot in both directions and I didn't want to buy another expensive piece of lexan. 

Nothing on my P10 are sealed tight, everything is designed for the water to run over the seams preventing penetration. 

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1 minute ago, Ebuechner said:

The back on the small P10 is the fiberglass wallboard.

On the large P10 I bought a roll of aluminum and use that like shingles on the back overlapping each other to allow for ventilation while preventing the water from getting in.

The aluminum roll was the lightest option to cover the back because my panel is over 4 foot in both directions and I didn't want to buy another expensive piece of lexan. 

Nothing on my P10 are sealed tight, everything is designed for the water to run over the seams preventing penetration. 

Good to know, was going to close mine in next year when it goes outside.

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I should mention my frames are made from Cedar because it had the weight to structural strength ratio I was looking for as well as being weather resistant.

Then the outside is wrapped with aluminum fascia. 

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Lexan extruded polycarbonate.

It costs a little more but you don't have to worry about it fracturing at stress points when you drill it to put screws in. 

Because of the size of the frame I planned my design around the lexan providing some of the structural strength. 

The frame is only made from a 3/4 inch thick piece of cedar. 

The lexan is screwed to the frame on the top and the right and left sides and the bottom is left open for ventilation. 

There is a vertical piece of wood inside the frame that provides support for the center of the panels as well as keeping the bottom from bowing because the lexan isn't attached at that point. 

 

 

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15 minutes ago, Ebuechner said:

Lexan extruded polycarbonate.

It costs a little more but you don't have to worry about it fracturing at stress points when you drill it to put screws in. 

Because of the size of the frame I planned my design around the lexan providing some of the structural strength. 

The frame is only made from a 3/4 inch thick piece of cedar. 

The lexan is screwed to the frame on the top and the right and left sides and the bottom is left open for ventilation. 

There is a vertical piece of wood inside the frame that provides support for the center of the panels as well as keeping the bottom from bowing because the lexan isn't attached at that point. 

 

 

where does one find this?

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We have a local place called Midwest Plastics where I buy most of the plastic I need including the sheets that I use for vacuum forming. 

I usually go in there and tell them what I'm trying to do and then let them steer me towards the best product. 

 

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27 minutes ago, Ebuechner said:

We have a local place called Midwest Plastics where I buy most of the plastic I need including the sheets that I use for vacuum forming. 

I usually go in there and tell them what I'm trying to do and then let them steer me towards the best product. 

 

what thickness?  would 1/32 do?

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