Ebuechner

1 Servo dog is sold there's still 2 available. I'll offer the same deal that I gave the other gentleman. $80 each shipping included in the US sent small flat rate box.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/pKUDi4wm6rNfy71K7 https://photos.app.goo.gl/tNjEdSV4ofUDbnva6 I have three Servo dogs for sale $75 each plus shipping. I ended up going a different direction with controlling the servos. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QniTnyuQc2cMJM0CRVvvMPnEtesLXlt-/view?usp=drivesdk

Okay, let's go back to his first post based on that he simply trying to run some lights in his office. I suggested Xlights just as a tool to convert his sequence so it could be run from a pi with fpp which is capable of driving an Lor dongle. I suggested this because it also has the capability of being able to remote into change things through a web interface that he can get to through a smartphone so it doesn't go through the office Network. A pi is really cheap just to show off some spare lights in his office. He could also use Noobs and write some code to drive the Lor dongl

Is your goal just to run some lights? Or is it to have a full-blown sequence editor at your disposal. If you just use some 2811 pixels and not the Lor stuff there's tons of ready-made cheap controllers that would run those some of them which have an interphase from your smartphone. And there's always a Showtime director.

I'm not sure if a quad core Pi would have enough oomph to run sequence editor itself after you would get over the hurdles of trying to install it on a Linux system. You could ( as I said before) convert your sequence to an fseq format using xlights so that the fpp ( pi ) will play it. The pi has many more options you could instead of installing fpp install Noobs and throw together some code to drive the lights. I haven't looked at noobs in a while but I believe you have python, C + +, a few other things built in that you could use.

Why not use a Raspberry Pi. You can use fpp to drive your Lor dongle and convert a sequence to keep playing in a loop.

I have many different P10 panels and have done this a few different ways. Although color light cards are great I think it's overkill for your small tune to sign. My smaller P10 panel that's similar to what you're going to build is running off of a pi 3B and a matrix adapter. If you do want to go the route of a color light card you can buy your P10 panels and color light card from Ray Wu. ( make sure you buy the 8th scan p10 indoor for best compatibility) Although Dan likes to say that the beaglebone is the best way to drive the P10s directly with an octoscroller or u

The jumper settings on the Falcon change the pins that output the signal but don't change the digital signal. You want use the jumpers in the Lor position so you can use a straight through Cat5 cable to run your Lor Network. Lor controllers output voltage on a couple of the lines that can damage equipment if you're not careful.

It also could be a power issue. Check the voltage when it's acting up.

No I would never recommend trying to use a switch even if that Pi has a gigabit connection. First off the switch is going to cost more than a USB 3.0 to gigabit adapter. Second the traffic coming out trying to talk to the color light is going to go everywhere and load down the network. Wi-Fi is an option if the fpp is going to be running as a standalone or as a slave.

It really sounds like we need to do a zoom session to answer some of your questions. This is how I've helped k6ccc Chet and a few others. Do you have a microphone or a webcam that you can use on your computer?

When using a color light card your pi or beaglebone black needs to have two ethernet connections. The first one is to receive data and then the second one is needed is a dedicated output to the color light card typically what is used as a USB 3.0 to gigabit adapter.

Not necessary. The amount of water that would drive into that seem even in the driving rain would be minimal. I've already accounted for a small amount of water with drain holes on the bottom and I've used Cedar for that reason as well. I've been using this setup for a few years with success

No, absolutely everything is designed for the water to run over the seams on to the next panel similar to the way you would shingle a roof. This allows things to move and breathe while keeping it weatherproof. The only thing I'll have to worry about is If gravity reverses but I think at that point I'll have bigger things to worry about.

Here's a link to a bunch of pictures of my P10 panels to give you some ideas how to build. https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BwDgEpqsgNhfSzVGYVFoalRWMWc