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12 minutes ago, Traed128 said:

JR,

I would like the diagram or layout on how to install a pixie 8.  I saw a sample video that you posted on another thread that link to Vimeo to see other videos.  Vimeo stayed I could not see the vids. So if you could send me the video or whatever you have so I can wire the board up correctly I would greatly appreciate it.  I purchased the pix8 and plan on purchasing 3 more pix8 and 4 pix16 during the summer sale.  My thought was to figure out how to make this 8 work now.  Change my current ac channels out for pixels and re use the ac channels and lights for additional props. The. Spend the next month learning to sequence and upgrading for s4pro to s5 to do the pixels.

i have purchased so far is:

pixie8, holiday coro box, wire, power core, and 350w ps, 500 pixels from amazon, and 10 18g pigtails.  Please advise if I need anything else to wire the board.  Thank you again for the grinch singing faces you sent my kids love the new prop.  My email is Traed128@gmail.com 

 

I’ve never had anyone say they couldn’t view them but here is part 1. They were made for my friend Steve here and sent via text so that’s why they are about 1 min long.

 Someday when I find time I will have to make it an uncut video.

Here is part 1 from there you can see the rest.

Note- the video is of a pixie4, they will all be the same with the exception of the power supply wattage and the physical size of the card and number of unit ID’s they consume.

I would recommend at least the below psu’s.

1- pixie4  350w

2- pixie8 500

3- pixie16 -  700+ , all of mine and the ones I have built for others are all 750+ wattage (you may get away with 500 depending on the sequence)

Let me know if you have questions via PM.

JR

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12 minutes ago, Traed128 said:

JR,

I would like the diagram or layout on how to install a pixie 8.  I saw a sample video that you posted on another thread that link to Vimeo to see other videos.  Vimeo stayed I could not see the vids. So if you could send me the video or whatever you have so I can wire the board up correctly I would greatly appreciate it.  I purchased the pix8 and plan on purchasing 3 more pix8 and 4 pix16 during the summer sale.  My thought was to figure out how to make this 8 work now.  Change my current ac channels out for pixels and re use the ac channels and lights for additional props. The. Spend the next month learning to sequence and upgrading for s4pro to s5 to do the pixels.

i have purchased so far is:

pixie8, holiday coro box, wire, power core, and 350w ps, 500 pixels from amazon, and 10 18g pigtails.  Please advise if I need anything else to wire the board.  Thank you again for the grinch singing faces you sent my kids love the new prop.  My email is Traed128@gmail.com 

 

The thing in your post that jumped out at me was PIGTAILS. IMHO they are good. BUT! !!(you knew that was coming 😜)

There are no standards. PERIOD.  LOR has theirs, HC has theirs. And others. (I am not just talking 3 vs 4 pin ). Size, Key style and orientation of pins with respect to key. I think I have even seen the Male pins vs Female housing thing.

If you want to keep any hair you have, you will stick with  your PIGTAIL vendor from now on (unless there is an obvious physical difference. like my LOR floods  and the rest). I went with HC's system (before they started shipping strings WITH connectors), simply because they looked like they would be there next year with more when I needed them (and boy-o-boy have I kept adding stuff) and not some e-bay bloke who might be just clearance sales.  I  skipped Ray Wu only because I buy tiny quantities.

The other thing I would emphasize: STRAIN RELIEF (See linked photo. Pixie 8 in a HC/CG1500  with pigtails)  https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BjuuMb1R5x0u-NmzX4J3vtB6zNKjtqf5/view?usp=sharing

Note I used 1" Romex connectors to secure the pigtails, a LOR CAT5 pigtail, and ferrets on the wire ends  I mount my Power supplies external https://drive.google.com/file/d/1W8ZQqHTVUMmyhqXlQWICX9rUHAQdGiKx/view?usp=sharing , leaves more room inside (2 CMB, or a Pixie8 and a CMB in this case)

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12 minutes ago, TheDucks said:

The thing in your post that jumped out at me was PIGTAILS. IMHO they are good. BUT! !!(you knew that was coming 😜)

There are no standards. PERIOD.  LOR has theirs, HC has theirs. And others. (I am not just talking 3 vs 4 pin ). Size, Key style and orientation of pins with respect to key. I think I have even seen the Male pins vs Female housing thing.

If you want to keep any hair you have, you will stick with  your PIGTAIL vendor from now on (unless there is an obvious physical difference. like my LOR floods  and the rest). I went with HC's system (before they started shipping strings WITH connectors), simply because they looked like they would be there next year with more when I needed them (and boy-o-boy have I kept adding stuff) and not some e-bay bloke who might be just clearance sales.  I  skipped Ray Wu only because I buy tiny quantities.

The other thing I would emphasize: STRAIN RELIEF (See linked photo. Pixie 8 in a HC/CG1500  with pigtails)  https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BjuuMb1R5x0u-NmzX4J3vtB6zNKjtqf5/view?usp=sharing

Note I used 1" Romex connectors to secure the pigtails, a LOR CAT5 pigtail, and ferrets on the wire ends  I mount my Power supplies external https://drive.google.com/file/d/1W8ZQqHTVUMmyhqXlQWICX9rUHAQdGiKx/view?usp=sharing , leaves more room inside (2 CMB, or a Pixie8 and a CMB in this case)

ok I will purchase the pigtails in bulk to plan for future expansion.  the external is it weather proof?  Jr stated 500 for the 8 and 750 for the 16.  Will I have to power inject if I run 100 pixels per channel with the 500 on the 8?  if so do I power inject from the existing power supply or add power supplies?  where do you get your power supplies from?  I bought the 350W with the holiday coro kit.  Now I see I need a 500W.  So I will add a pix 4 to the summer sale list to go with the 350W I have.

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45 minutes ago, dibblejr said:

I’ve never had anyone say they couldn’t view them but here is part 1. They were made for my friend Steve here and sent via text so that’s why they are about 1 min long.

 Someday when I find time I will have to make it an uncut video.

Here is part 1 from there you can see the rest.

Note- the video is of a pixie4, they will all be the same with the exception of the power supply wattage and the physical size of the card and number of unit ID’s they consume.

I would recommend at least the below psu’s.

1- pixie4  350w

2- pixie8 500

3- pixie16 -  700+ , all of mine and the ones I have built for others are all 750+ wattage (you may get away with 500 depending on the sequence)

Let me know if you have questions via PM.

JR

sent you a PM

20 minutes ago, TheDucks said:

The thing in your post that jumped out at me was PIGTAILS. IMHO they are good. BUT! !!(you knew that was coming 😜)

There are no standards. PERIOD.  LOR has theirs, HC has theirs. And others. (I am not just talking 3 vs 4 pin ). Size, Key style and orientation of pins with respect to key. I think I have even seen the Male pins vs Female housing thing.

If you want to keep any hair you have, you will stick with  your PIGTAIL vendor from now on (unless there is an obvious physical difference. like my LOR floods  and the rest). I went with HC's system (before they started shipping strings WITH connectors), simply because they looked like they would be there next year with more when I needed them (and boy-o-boy have I kept adding stuff) and not some e-bay bloke who might be just clearance sales.  I  skipped Ray Wu only because I buy tiny quantities.

The other thing I would emphasize: STRAIN RELIEF (See linked photo. Pixie 8 in a HC/CG1500  with pigtails)  https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BjuuMb1R5x0u-NmzX4J3vtB6zNKjtqf5/view?usp=sharing

Note I used 1" Romex connectors to secure the pigtails, a LOR CAT5 pigtail, and ferrets on the wire ends  I mount my Power supplies external https://drive.google.com/file/d/1W8ZQqHTVUMmyhqXlQWICX9rUHAQdGiKx/view?usp=sharing , leaves more room inside (2 CMB, or a Pixie8 and a CMB in this case)

 

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27 minutes ago, Traed128 said:

ok I will purchase the pigtails in bulk to plan for future expansion.  the external is it weather proof?  Jr stated 500 for the 8 and 750 for the 16.  Will I have to power inject if I run 100 pixels per channel with the 500 on the 8?  if so do I power inject from the existing power supply or add power supplies?  where do you get your power supplies from?  I bought the 350W with the holiday coro kit.  Now I see I need a 500W.  So I will add a pix 4 to the summer sale list to go with the 350W I have.

Both the LOR one and the HC ones are rain resistant when mounted per directions.  You have options. other than the Pixie4, LOR controllers have BANKS. These need not even be powered from the same supply (and in some cases, voltage).  I just use 2 rather than1 big one.YMMV And I have a SPARE 👍 (another reason for setting your personal equipment standards. I could probably swap a bad out in under 10 minutes and that includes grabbing the tool bag and spare on the way out the door. OK I did prep the spare with ferrels  and my L bkt I use at the top mount)

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BTW The need for Power injection has multiple reasons:

Voltage drop (more critical at 5V),: wire size. string length

Current: Node count, Port Amp capacity,  Bus Capacity (you can't max out all ports in a bank),  Wire size (again)

I spent 40Y as a r&D (little R and a lot of D as my engineer would say 😛 ). I lean toward SOLID vs just get it working

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2 hours ago, TheDucks said:

The thing in your post that jumped out at me was PIGTAILS. IMHO they are good. BUT! !!(you knew that was coming 😜)

There are no standards. PERIOD.  LOR has theirs, HC has theirs. And others. (I am not just talking 3 vs 4 pin ). Size, Key style and orientation of pins with respect to key. I think I have even seen the Male pins vs Female housing thing.

If you want to keep any hair you have, you will stick with  your PIGTAIL vendor from now on (unless there is an obvious physical difference. like my LOR floods  and the rest). I went with HC's system (before they started shipping strings WITH connectors), simply because they looked like they would be there next year with more when I needed them (and boy-o-boy have I kept adding stuff) and not some e-bay bloke who might be just clearance sales.  I  skipped Ray Wu only because I buy tiny quantities.

The other thing I would emphasize: STRAIN RELIEF (See linked photo. Pixie 8 in a HC/CG1500  with pigtails)  https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BjuuMb1R5x0u-NmzX4J3vtB6zNKjtqf5/view?usp=sharing

Note I used 1" Romex connectors to secure the pigtails, a LOR CAT5 pigtail, and ferrets on the wire ends  I mount my Power supplies external https://drive.google.com/file/d/1W8ZQqHTVUMmyhqXlQWICX9rUHAQdGiKx/view?usp=sharing , leaves more room inside (2 CMB, or a Pixie8 and a CMB in this case)

Never buy just pigtails.

I have been buying the longest extensions from HC since my Ray William problem with supply.

Cut one end, that is the pigtail. The other cut end goes to the pixels/ strips.

They are more robust than others on the market. When I beta tested LOR had nothing but the boards. Had to venture and the warning I got from my friends here “the pigtails was gonna be the largest waste of $. I didn’t believe them until Ray changed his inventory and the original ones I purchased no longer matched with the next.

I use several combinations of strain relief. I imagine that’s why LOR has smaller wires. There is no way that in a standard box like the CG1500 you will get 16 Hac cables through one hole and keep the box in tact.

I prefer using rubber grommets to line the hole , straps inside the box. And once I secure the box to the prop or whatever the cables get ziptied in several places to the props.

The extension cords do not get ziptied . This prevents someone rod tripping on the cord and breaking something inside the controller. I do that with my cat5 as well.

It is more secure to the prop than the cables. The data ports are more fragile and get more zipties.

it’s all discussed in my videos.

On another note, I do not seal the data cable hole. A lot of my pixies are up year round, the others get stored in my barn. 

The hole (s) in the bottom act as a way to let any moisture that may get inside to drain or air out. As far as critters, other than a spider here or there I haven’t had a problem.

In the beginning I did use the exact same compression type seal, strain relief. I probably have 50 of them in my tool box. After the second build I didn’t find them necessary.

I based my opinion on the fact that I have several AC controllers that the rubber boot had come out and never seen moisture.

JR

Edited by dibblejr
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