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Wayne K

Remote mount status led

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As for the brightness. Personally I don't want it so bright, it sticks out like a sore thumb in the display! But believe me, its pretty bright as it is!

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Orville wrote:

BTW: Where do you get those RJ45-ECS's? I think I'd like to add some of those to my controllers, would sure make it easier on set up not having to open them up to put in the cat5 cabling all the time!

They don't necessary make it easier, but they do make it more secure. One issue with the RJ45-ECS is that you need to use a small screwdriver to release the RJ45, because your finger won't fit. (Although you could just break off the tab on the RJ45, because the screw clamp will hold the cable securely.) You also have to remove any "boot" on the connector or it won't fit.

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Steven wrote:

Orville wrote:
BTW: Where do you get those RJ45-ECS's? I think I'd like to add some of those to my controllers, would sure make it easier on set up not having to open them up to put in the cat5 cabling all the time!

They don't necessary make it easier, but they do make it more secure. One issue with the RJ45-ECS is that you need to use a small screwdriver to release the RJ45, because your finger won't fit. (Although you could just break off the tab on the RJ45, because the screw clamp will hold the cable securely.) You also have to remove any "boot" on the connector or it won't fit.

Thanks for the additional info Steve. That would have probably had me scratching my head for at least a few moments until I figured out what I needed to do to get the cat5 plugged and then unplugged!

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rstately wrote:

You could use feed through type, they keep bugs out and there cheaper...

https://www.roc-noc.com/product.php?productid=78


Cool. Those would work for me. {I think}. How well do these work with "booted" Cat5 cables?

All but a select few of my Cat5 are booted and I really would prefer NOT to remove the booting if I don't have too!

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Orville wrote:

rstately wrote:
You could use feed through type, they keep bugs out and there cheaper...

https://www.roc-noc.com/product.php?productid=78


Cool.  Those would work for me. {I think}.  How well do these work with "booted" Cat5 cables? 

All but a select few of my Cat5 are booted and I really would prefer NOT to remove the booting if I don't have too!


Yes, The booted cables fit through, but I use cables that have protection from pulling the cable back out so that the clip does not get ripped off the plug... If your cables don't have that just be careful pulling them back through.

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rstately wrote:

Orville wrote:
rstately wrote:
You could use feed through type, they keep bugs out and there cheaper...

https://www.roc-noc.com/product.php?productid=78


Cool. Those would work for me. {I think}. How well do these work with "booted" Cat5 cables?

All but a select few of my Cat5 are booted and I really would prefer NOT to remove the booting if I don't have too!


Yes, The booted cables fit through, but I use cables that have protection from pulling the cable back out so that the clip does not get ripped off the plug... If your cables don't have that just be careful pulling them back through.

Do you mean the boot covers the clip on the Cat5 connector? If that's what it is, then yes, my booted Cat5 cables are protected in that same manner. Makes it a little harder to press down and take out, but I haven't broken a single clip off them since I started using that type. Got all mine at monoprice.com.

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Orville wrote:

rstately wrote:
Orville wrote:
rstately wrote:
You could use feed through type, they keep bugs out and there cheaper...

https://www.roc-noc.com/product.php?productid=78


Cool.  Those would work for me. {I think}.  How well do these work with "booted" Cat5 cables? 

All but a select few of my Cat5 are booted and I really would prefer NOT to remove the booting if I don't have too!


Yes, The booted cables fit through, but I use cables that have protection from pulling the cable back out so that the clip does not get ripped off the plug... If your cables don't have that just be careful pulling them back through.

Do you mean the boot covers the clip on the Cat5 connector?   If that's what it is, then yes, my booted Cat5 cables are protected in that same manner.   Makes it a little harder to press down and take out, but I haven't broken a single clip off them since I started using that type.  Got all mine at monoprice.com.

 

 


Yes, thats what I am talking about, The connectors with a pigtail are a little nicer. They give a little more protection from say tripping over the cord and pulling the jack out of the board. I set mine up in a way that it's not likely I'll trip on cords.

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rstately wrote:

Orville wrote:
Do you mean the boot covers the clip on the Cat5 connector? If that's what it is, then yes, my booted Cat5 cables are protected in that same manner. Makes it a little harder to press down and take out, but I haven't broken a single clip off them since I started using that type. Got all mine at monoprice.com.






Yes, thats what I am talking about, The connectors with a pigtail are a little nicer. They give a little more protection from say tripping over the cord and pulling the jack out of the board. I set mine up in a way that it's not likely I'll trip on cords.


I usually always use those little plastic cable clamps that are held down with a single screw, I put the Cat5 inside the clamp, sort of like a C, then screw these clamps to the wall in 2 to 3 places along the Cat5, that way I know it's not coming out if I would happen to trip over it. Plus I will use these to sometimes just get the Cat5 completely off the ground between controllers.

Although I've got to say, I've never tripped over any of my Cat5 cables, extension cords, now that's another matter! LOL

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Steven wrote:

with the RJ45-ECS is that you need to use a small screwdriver to release the RJ45, because your finger won't fit.


This is so true! Its a little pain in the a$$.

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ny_yankee_25 wrote:

Steven wrote:
with the RJ45-ECS is that you need to use a small screwdriver to release the RJ45, because your finger won't fit.


This is so true! Its a little pain in the a$$.



I need to look at mine this next time and see if I can straighten them out a little. Evidently from sticking a small screw driver up in there to reach the tab I have bent the metal in there where the tab catches. I have looked at one of these close and think I am going to try and drill a small hole in the side that will line up with the cord tab and use a small wire or paper clip to release the tabs, at least that is my plan when I start working on things this fall.
Wayne

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I do all mine now the same, by not soldering in the LED on PCB, and remote it to the cover with a hole, and some silicone. OLots of rain, no problems..no need to over engineer it :P

The pic shows the inside of one of my boxes..and yes, I recycle old clients irrigation boxes, works great.



Attached files 306640=16817-IMG_2335.JPG

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cenote wrote:

I do all mine now the same, by not soldering in the LED on PCB, and remote it to the cover with a hole, and some silicone. OLots of rain, no problems..no need to over engineer it :P

The pic shows the inside of one of my boxes..and yes, I recycle old clients irrigation boxes, works great.



I actually thought about using one of those color changing LED's, you know the ones that cycle through the colors when they are powered, then if it were visible, at least it'd somewhat match the Colored Christmas lights!{in a sense} LOL

Not sure how feasible it would really be to use one though. Especially since the LOR box does "blink" the LED when it's not linked via the HWU or SE software, so not sure one of those color changing auto-cycling LEDs would be all that practical, just something I was toying with.

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ny-yankee,

So these RJ45-ECS's are a bulkhead female RJ45 and have a bout a 11inch lead to a male RJ45 is that right?

Is the lead replaceable to make it longer?

Thanks,

Mike

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Paul M Krupa wrote:

ny-yankee,

So these RJ45-ECS's are a bulkhead female RJ45 and have a bout a 11inch lead to a male RJ45 is that right?

Is the lead replaceable to make it longer?

Thanks,

Mike


Since I haven't bought any as yet, but from what I can see and have read, I don't think so. Not unless you cut the Cat5 and splice another Cat5 wire to it to extend and then either crimp another male RJ45 connector on it or splice the one you cut off at the end of the spliced wire. Not sure I'd want to splice Cat5 wire like this though.

But from what I can tell, that might be the only way to extend it, not unless the female receptacle is NOT molded in and can be easily replaced, then you could just make your own custom length. Somehow I have a feeling those female jacks are molded to the inside of the plastic housing.

Hopefully someone that owns these can give us more info, but from what I've read elsewhere and can see, I sort of doubt they are easily extendable, if at all.

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Paul M Krupa wrote:

ny-yankee,

So these RJ45-ECS's are a bulkhead female RJ45 and have a bout a 11inch lead to a male RJ45 is that right?

Is the lead replaceable to make it longer?

Thanks,

Mike



The ones I have are a molded housing with the cord bassically molded out the end of the connector. Mine measures about 12 1/2" from the housing end where the cord comes out to the end of the rj45 male end. I don't think you could change the cord on these.
Wayne

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Why would you need this LED? Seems to me that if your lights connected to that controller are working, you know that the controller is working and that if the lights connected to that controller aren't working...

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I was thinking of doing this but with long wires and wiring a different color for each controller. I would have them all run to my show computer in the basement, because I can't see the display from there. I would solder a connector to the board so it is easy to change.

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eurbani wrote:

Why would you need this LED? Seems to me that if your lights connected to that controller are working, you know that the controller is working and that if the lights connected to that controller aren't working...


Exactly.

If all your lights are working, you can see that they are working.

If they don't work, then, you are probably going to open the box anyway to troubleshoot. Thus, you'll see the LED on the board blinking or not.

I don't see the point in putting the LED in the cover. I really don't want to draw attention to my controllers at night, by putting a flashing LED on it.



Just sayin......

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eurbani wrote:

Why would you need this LED? Seems to me that if your lights connected to that controller are working, you know that the controller is working and that if the lights connected to that controller aren't working...


NOT TRUE! If the lights aren't working or lighting, does NOT mean the controller IS NOT working or NOT getting power, but it's not getting it to the lights.

Ever have to RESET a controller? If not, then you wouldn't realize that the LED still works as the controller is getting power to it, but the lights ARE NOT working.

So if the lights are not working and the controller has power, having the LED mounted where it can be seen OUTSIDE the controller box would give you an indication that power is still very much alive in there, but something happened to upset the apple cart, so to speak, that is, controller is powered, but lights aren't working. Then you know you have to reset the controller.

Now if the LED is out and the lights aren't working, you also know there is something wrong, and again, you could tell at a glance and know if it could be the controller, but it could be the power feeding the controller, so if the LED is off, you start looking outside before opening the controller to locate is it a cord came unplugged, did the GFCI trip on that particular outlet or in the Circuit Breaker Panel or did the outlet itself go bad and need replacement?

So having an indicator OUTSIDE the controller helps to alleviate where to start looking for issues GOING to the controller and lights.

So yes, there is a need to have it mounted where it is visible or have some type of peep hole in the controller housing to see if that LED is lit.

I keep my controllers LOCKED and Screwed Closed, so to see if it's getting power I have to find which key goes to that controller lock, get a phillips screwdriver and unscrew the lock down screw just to see if the controller is receiving any power at all.

With the remote or external LED, there is no guessing or having to open the controller to see if power is, in fact, getting to the PCB inside.

Sometimes folks think items like this are over-kill or not needed, but when you really get down and truly look at it, you can finally see that this is something that would be very useful.

I also think it would be great if LOR added a 2 pin connector for a remote/external LED connection and an external LED option that would be wired to a mating connector that could be purchased as an ADD ON accessory for those that would want it. Being an add on, you would decide where you want to mount the LED on the controller box and be required to drill the hole for it.

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Jeff Millard wrote:

Wayne K wrote:
I have been searching about remote mounting the status led...

Just a little food for thought: Having the status LED external of the case creates two issues to think of. 1) You now have an LED on each and every controller location throughout your display. When you dim all the lights in your sequence there will be little red lights scattered around your display you have no control over. 2) This hobby is becomming more and more popular, so more and more people are learning about it online. They see LOR controllers are a couple hundred bucks. If they plan to make a display, you've given them the equivalent of echo location to each of your prized possesions. Vandals can also now see where the expensive stuff they can do the most damage to is located. ...and that one neighbor who has loathed your display for the last couple years now knows where they are... Cameras ain't gonna save them from vandalism. Trust me, I have firsthand knowledge of that.

I put these on a couple controllers in the past. But when I saw them out there at night, I ripped them out and filled the holes...

Just my 2 cents...

Jeff


For me the problem is that I used nema metal enclosures and I have to physically remove 2 screws to get the cover off to see the board / led. That is my reasoning for wanting to do it. If I had the plastic cases that opened up easy I probably would not worry about it.
But you also make a good point about being seen. As I sit here and think about this. All of my controllers are 90 degrees from the street / sidewalk and I could do all of mine facing away from the street. But on the other hand all of my supply power cords have the light in the end of them that glows nicely in the dark about 5 foot away from the controller. I guess I will have to ponder this idea a little more.
Wayne

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I have a plastic case with two controllers mount in it and it has 8 screw to take the cover off. No external LED to show if it is working, because I have 16 strings of lights connected to each controller to tell me if it is working or not. It that simple.

Thomas

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Jeff Millard wrote:

Wayne K wrote:
I have been searching about remote mounting the status led...

Just a little food for thought: Having the status LED external of the case creates two issues to think of. 1) You now have an LED on each and every controller location throughout your display. When you dim all the lights in your sequence there will be little red lights scattered around your display you have no control over. 2) This hobby is becomming more and more popular, so more and more people are learning about it online. They see LOR controllers are a couple hundred bucks. If they plan to make a display, you've given them the equivalent of echo location to each of your prized possesions. Vandals can also now see where the expensive stuff they can do the most damage to is located. ...and that one neighbor who has loathed your display for the last couple years now knows where they are... Cameras ain't gonna save them from vandalism. Trust me, I have firsthand knowledge of that.

I put these on a couple controllers in the past. But when I saw them out there at night, I ripped them out and filled the holes...

Just my 2 cents...

Jeff


Agreed Jeff. Nothing like putting a beacon on your controller.

I live in Florida, so I guess I can see where you folks up North wouldn't want to walk through the snow to open a box.

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Jeff Millard wrote:

Wayne K wrote:
I have been searching about remote mounting the status led...

Just a little food for thought: Having the status LED external of the case creates two issues to think of. 1) You now have an LED on each and every controller location throughout your display. When you dim all the lights in your sequence there will be little red lights scattered around your display you have no control over. 2) This hobby is becomming more and more popular, so more and more people are learning about it online. They see LOR controllers are a couple hundred bucks. If they plan to make a display, you've given them the equivalent of echo location to each of your prized possesions. Vandals can also now see where the expensive stuff they can do the most damage to is located. ...and that one neighbor who has loathed your display for the last couple years now knows where they are... Cameras ain't gonna save them from vandalism. Trust me, I have firsthand knowledge of that.

I put these on a couple controllers in the past. But when I saw them out there at night, I ripped them out and filled the holes...

Just my 2 cents...

Jeff


A very valid thought Jeff. However, I usually mount my controllers directly to a wall, they are screwed down and padlocked. So it'd take some doing to get mine off the house.

Aside from that, I actually thought about doing it this way myself, take out the PCB in the controller, drill a hole UNDER the PCB that faces the wall when mounted, the LED would be mounted center of the controller box showing out the back, there is just enough gap there to actually see the LED illuminating behind the controller, this way there is no obvious evidence of light coming from it, the controller box itself would block the LED light from being seen unless you were next to the controller and looking specifically for it between the gap.

This is the idea I have for mine in the Florida area. For folks in snowy areas, well, they probably would want to mount theirs in a much easier to see location from inside the house {if possible} or if they want to install one.

There are many good and valid points about whether or not to use a "remote/external" LED on your controller.

In the end, it's all up to the individuals preference as to if they want to install one or not and how and where to install it on their controller.

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