Wayne K Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 I have been searching about remote mounting the status led and I have found a few articles, but the one I found that looks like it could of been helpful is from duke and it is old and has no pictures showing with it. Does anyone have any more info on what panel mount led to use and wether to series it or paralel it or take the old one out?ThanksWayne Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 Wayne K wrote: I have been searching about remote mounting the status led and I have found a few articles, but the one I found that looks like it could of been helpful is from duke and it is old and has no pictures showing with it. Does anyone have any more info on what panel mount led to use and wether to series it or paralel it or take the old one out?ThanksWayneI had thought about using a second LED as a remote LED myself on all of my CTB16PC Controllers,although not really a remote per se, but a hole drilled either in the front or from the side where the door opens{nearest the back of the controller} on the LOR Controller (CTB16PC Plastic case) and then connect the LED peeping out the front or side in parallel to the one inside the case, or just removing the internal LED, either way I'd use a mini 2 wire connector and solder the female connector to the board via wires and the male connector to where I have the LED mounted, making sure the wires going to the connectors, as well as the connectors are clear of any other circuitry inside the housing. Just make sure you keep the polarity correct or the LED won't light and could possibly even be damaged, rendered inoperable.If I could figure out an easy way to do it, I'd actually use a dual color LED {red/green}, blinking red = power, solid green = unit in operation {connected to LOR HWU, SE or an DC-MP3 Director unit.}Not sure about the newest LOR Controller {V3?}boards, but heard they now have a green LED that indicates this, not sure if it's a dual based red/green LED or two seperate LED's, 1 red and 1 green for the indications. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 Orville wrote: I had thought about using a second LED as a remote LED myself on all of my CTB16PC Controllers,although not really a remote per se, but a hole drilled either in the front or from the side where the door opens{nearest the back of the controller} on the LOR Controller (CTB16PC Plastic case) and then connect the LED peeping out the front or side in parallel to the one inside the case,I found a cheaper, easier way. I drilled a 1/4" hole in the door over the existing LED. Then I cut a piece from a gallon milk jug and glued it over the hole on the inside of the door. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 Steven wrote: Orville wrote: I had thought about using a second LED as a remote LED myself on all of my CTB16PC Controllers,although not really a remote per se, but a hole drilled either in the front or from the side where the door opens{nearest the back of the controller} on the LOR Controller (CTB16PC Plastic case) and then connect the LED peeping out the front or side in parallel to the one inside the case,I found a cheaper, easier way. I drilled a 1/4" hole in the door over the existing LED. Then I cut a piece from a gallon milk jug and glued it over the hole on the inside of the door.I had thought about that too, only using a clear piece of hard plastic. But I wasn't sure how that would look with the controllers being visible from the front, so I was thinking more of a side mounted LED that the flap of the door would actually conceal from sight a little better. Of course depending on the type and color LED used, like a high brightness LED, would defeat that purpose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wayne K Posted February 7, 2012 Author Share Posted February 7, 2012 I had in mind to put them in the sides also which would require a weatherproof led and holder. So I am still trying to figure out what type / voltage and so forth it would take to parallel the existing led.Wayne Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 Any common LED should work as long as you maintain the correct polarity from the existing LED connections. I'd say any LED within the voltage range of 2.1vdc-3.5vdc and you should be fine.As far as weatherproofing goes, the emitter (top) of the LED where the light shines from wouldn't need to be weatherproofed, what I'd use is a clear silicone sealant available at most auto parts stores and seal around the back of the LED itself inside the controller housing. I'd just drill the hole large enough for the LED to seat in the hole snuggly. The back lip around the LED would prevent it from being pushed out any further. I'd probably use anywhere from a 3mm to 5mm, probably 5mm size LED. You can also buy plastic rings that snap into the hole and the LED then snaps into that. But if you silcone it, if you ever need to replace the LED for any reason would need a new mounting ring, scraping that silicone off just wouldn't be practical and it hardens really well.I've used the silicone to seal leaks around my car and it's done a great job of weatherproofing. I'd use clear as opposed to the black, orange or any of the other colors you can get it in, unless you need a specific color, then use what you need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgardner518 Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 Wayne K wrote: I have been searching about remote mounting the status led and I have found a few articles, but the one I found that looks like it could of been helpful is from duke and it is old and has no pictures showing with it. Does anyone have any more info on what panel mount led to use and wether to series it or paralel it or take the old one out?ThanksWayneI did exactly what you want, I think! And I love it and recommend it. Between the remote LED, and the RJ45-ECS's I never have to open the box! Attached files Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgardner518 Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 Outside Attached files Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgardner518 Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 Inside Attached files Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgardner518 Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 And here is how I wired the remote LED. Just for the record. This is NOT my picture! I don't know who's it was. But that's how I connected mine. I did not remove the LED that was mounted to the board. Attached files Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgardner518 Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 Here is a picture of my RJ45-ECS's Attached files Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 ny-yankee, what voltage LED did you use? The one in the photo's you've posted looks like the Radio Shack 12 volt version, but I think they have a 5-6 volt version that looks similar.So would be interested to know what voltage LED you used for your remote LED project. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 Just checked the voltage across those two resistors per the wiring diagram above. Voltage = 4.7vdc, so you need at a minimum a 5vdc LED! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgardner518 Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 I'm unclear on the spec's. But here is the link to it, http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062568I have the same one installed on all 7 of my PC controllers., since 2009, without any issues! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgardner518 Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 Here is a Green one, http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062569And an Orange one, http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062570I understand them to all be the same, other than the color. So you can change it if you want. I just choose to keep it all the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 I wonder how many LED's could be powered from the wiring diagram posted.I got to thinking, a remote LED would be great, but if it could also power a second INSIDE BRIGHT WHITE LED, mounted in a small housing to the top of the inside of the controller, that would be a great little light for if you had to open the controller and inspect it for something, would probably add a small slider switch in series with the LED so it could be turned off or on. It could help light the hanging cords so you could see the number you put on them.Not sure how feasible it would really be to install something like that, just a thought I had pop into my head after reading about adding the remote inidcator LED. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgardner518 Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 I think its a great idea. But all of the work involved in figuring out "how" and install, is it really worth it for the little you go in the box?I use a label that is easy to see in the dark, so seeing them on the dongles is really not an issue.But I like where your going with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougd Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 I did this the easy way. Unsoldiered the existing LED. Soldiered in 2 wires about 12 inches long where the LED was at on the board. Then drilled a hole in my box that fits an LED. Soldiered the wires to the LED, making sure my polarity was correct. I have done all 15 of my controllers this way. A glance out in the yard tells me the status of all my controllers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgardner518 Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 Orville wrote: I wonder how many LED's could be powered from the wiring diagram posted.I got to thinking, a remote LED would be great, but if it could also power a second INSIDE BRIGHT WHITE LED, mounted in a small housing to the top of the inside of the controller, that would be a great little light for if you had to open the controller and inspect it for something, would probably add a small slider switch in series with the LED so it could be turned off or on. It could help light the hanging cords so you could see the number you put on them.Not sure how feasible it would really be to install something like that, just a thought I had pop into my head after reading about adding the remote inidcator LED.Here is an idea. Put a C7 socket on the end of an SPT-1 wire, with a white night light bulb, and put this on the wire,http://www.bonanza.com/listings/HARDWARE-Switch-Brown-Line-Lamp-On-Off-2-pieces-S120B/4615159And spice it in line with the inlet power, that comes into the board. This way if the board is shut off for any reason or fuses removed. As long as the controller is still plugged in getting power. You can still use the C7 light. And when your not using it hang it inside the box all spiraled up on one of these,http://www.command.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/NACommand/Command/Products/Product-Catalog/?PC_7_RJH9U523080QE0IIHEICN90GC1000000_nid=RLJ13DLNB5gsC4Z924C3ZHglC6DQJZ3XP6bl&currID=SVDN29G1JXbeattached to the door. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 ny-yankee, got a lot of those switches that I actually removed from C7 cords that I scavenged to use in blowmolds as extra lighting as well as a few other items.Don't have the hooks, but easy enough to get.Probably use an LED C7 bulb too. I like the idea of attaching to the power inlet so that if a fuse had blown or something got inside the controller that needed to be removed, like the darn lizard that electrocuted himself in my #4 controller Christmas 2011. Surprised that bugger didn't create any other issues in there! It was well fried too. LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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