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Wayne K

Remote mount status led

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I have been searching about remote mounting the status led and I have found a few articles, but the one I found that looks like it could of been helpful is from duke and it is old and has no pictures showing with it. Does anyone have any more info on what panel mount led to use and wether to series it or paralel it or take the old one out?
Thanks
Wayne

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Wayne K wrote:

I have been searching about remote mounting the status led and I have found a few articles, but the one I found that looks like it could of been helpful is from duke and it is old and has no pictures showing with it. Does anyone have any more info on what panel mount led to use and wether to series it or paralel it or take the old one out?
Thanks
Wayne


I had thought about using a second LED as a remote LED myself on all of my CTB16PC Controllers,although not really a remote per se, but a hole drilled either in the front or from the side where the door opens{nearest the back of the controller} on the LOR Controller (CTB16PC Plastic case) and then connect the LED peeping out the front or side in parallel to the one inside the case, or just removing the internal LED, either way I'd use a mini 2 wire connector and solder the female connector to the board via wires and the male connector to where I have the LED mounted, making sure the wires going to the connectors, as well as the connectors are clear of any other circuitry inside the housing. Just make sure you keep the polarity correct or the LED won't light and could possibly even be damaged, rendered inoperable.

If I could figure out an easy way to do it, I'd actually use a dual color LED {red/green}, blinking red = power, solid green = unit in operation {connected to LOR HWU, SE or an DC-MP3 Director unit.}

Not sure about the newest LOR Controller {V3?}boards, but heard they now have a green LED that indicates this, not sure if it's a dual based red/green LED or two seperate LED's, 1 red and 1 green for the indications.

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Orville wrote:

I had thought about using a second LED as a remote LED myself on all of my CTB16PC Controllers,although not really a remote per se, but a hole drilled either in the front or from the side where the door opens{nearest the back of the controller} on the LOR Controller (CTB16PC Plastic case) and then connect the LED peeping out the front or side in parallel to the one inside the case,

I found a cheaper, easier way. I drilled a 1/4" hole in the door over the existing LED. Then I cut a piece from a gallon milk jug and glued it over the hole on the inside of the door.

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Steven wrote:

Orville wrote:
I had thought about using a second LED as a remote LED myself on all of my CTB16PC Controllers,although not really a remote per se, but a hole drilled either in the front or from the side where the door opens{nearest the back of the controller} on the LOR Controller (CTB16PC Plastic case) and then connect the LED peeping out the front or side in parallel to the one inside the case,

I found a cheaper, easier way. I drilled a 1/4" hole in the door over the existing LED. Then I cut a piece from a gallon milk jug and glued it over the hole on the inside of the door.


I had thought about that too, only using a clear piece of hard plastic. But I wasn't sure how that would look with the controllers being visible from the front, so I was thinking more of a side mounted LED that the flap of the door would actually conceal from sight a little better. Of course depending on the type and color LED used, like a high brightness LED, would defeat that purpose.

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I had in mind to put them in the sides also which would require a weatherproof led and holder. So I am still trying to figure out what type / voltage and so forth it would take to parallel the existing led.
Wayne

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Any common LED should work as long as you maintain the correct polarity from the existing LED connections. I'd say any LED within the voltage range of 2.1vdc-3.5vdc and you should be fine.

As far as weatherproofing goes, the emitter (top) of the LED where the light shines from wouldn't need to be weatherproofed, what I'd use is a clear silicone sealant available at most auto parts stores and seal around the back of the LED itself inside the controller housing. I'd just drill the hole large enough for the LED to seat in the hole snuggly. The back lip around the LED would prevent it from being pushed out any further. I'd probably use anywhere from a 3mm to 5mm, probably 5mm size LED. You can also buy plastic rings that snap into the hole and the LED then snaps into that. But if you silcone it, if you ever need to replace the LED for any reason would need a new mounting ring, scraping that silicone off just wouldn't be practical and it hardens really well.

I've used the silicone to seal leaks around my car and it's done a great job of weatherproofing. I'd use clear as opposed to the black, orange or any of the other colors you can get it in, unless you need a specific color, then use what you need.

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Wayne K wrote:

I have been searching about remote mounting the status led and I have found a few articles, but the one I found that looks like it could of been helpful is from duke and it is old and has no pictures showing with it. Does anyone have any more info on what panel mount led to use and wether to series it or paralel it or take the old one out?
Thanks
Wayne

I did exactly what you want, I think! And I love it and recommend it. Between the remote LED, and the RJ45-ECS's I never have to open the box!


Attached files 306379=16799-Board.JPG

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And here is how I wired the remote LED. Just for the record. This is NOT my picture! I don't know who's it was. But that's how I connected mine. I did not remove the LED that was mounted to the board.


Attached files 306383=16802-48channel-box-remote-howto

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ny-yankee, what voltage LED did you use? The one in the photo's you've posted looks like the Radio Shack 12 volt version, but I think they have a 5-6 volt version that looks similar.

So would be interested to know what voltage LED you used for your remote LED project.

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Just checked the voltage across those two resistors per the wiring diagram above. Voltage = 4.7vdc, so you need at a minimum a 5vdc LED!

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Here is a Green one, http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062569

And an Orange one, http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062570

I understand them to all be the same, other than the color. So you can change it if you want. I just choose to keep it all the same.

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I wonder how many LED's could be powered from the wiring diagram posted.

I got to thinking, a remote LED would be great, but if it could also power a second INSIDE BRIGHT WHITE LED, mounted in a small housing to the top of the inside of the controller, that would be a great little light for if you had to open the controller and inspect it for something, would probably add a small slider switch in series with the LED so it could be turned off or on. It could help light the hanging cords so you could see the number you put on them.

Not sure how feasible it would really be to install something like that, just a thought I had pop into my head after reading about adding the remote inidcator LED.

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I think its a great idea. But all of the work involved in figuring out "how" and install, is it really worth it for the little you go in the box?

I use a label that is easy to see in the dark, so seeing them on the dongles is really not an issue.

But I like where your going with it.

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I did this the easy way. Unsoldiered the existing LED. Soldiered in 2 wires about 12 inches long where the LED was at on the board. Then drilled a hole in my box that fits an LED. Soldiered the wires to the LED, making sure my polarity was correct. I have done all 15 of my controllers this way. A glance out in the yard tells me the status of all my controllers.

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Orville wrote:

I wonder how many LED's could be powered from the wiring diagram posted.

I got to thinking, a remote LED would be great, but if it could also power a second INSIDE BRIGHT WHITE LED, mounted in a small housing to the top of the inside of the controller, that would be a great little light for if you had to open the controller and inspect it for something, would probably add a small slider switch in series with the LED so it could be turned off or on. It could help light the hanging cords so you could see the number you put on them.

Not sure how feasible it would really be to install something like that, just a thought I had pop into my head after reading about adding the remote inidcator LED.


Here is an idea. Put a C7 socket on the end of an SPT-1 wire, with a white night light bulb, and put this on the wire,

http://www.bonanza.com/listings/HARDWARE-Switch-Brown-Line-Lamp-On-Off-2-pieces-S120B/4615159

And spice it in line with the inlet power, that comes into the board. This way if the board is shut off for any reason or fuses removed. As long as the controller is still plugged in getting power. You can still use the C7 light. And when your not using it hang it inside the box all spiraled up on one of these,

http://www.command.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/NACommand/Command/Products/Product-Catalog/?PC_7_RJH9U523080QE0IIHEICN90GC1000000_nid=RLJ13DLNB5gsC4Z924C3ZHglC6DQJZ3XP6bl&currID=SVDN29G1JXbe

attached to the door.

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ny-yankee, got a lot of those switches that I actually removed from C7 cords that I scavenged to use in blowmolds as extra lighting as well as a few other items.

Don't have the hooks, but easy enough to get.

Probably use an LED C7 bulb too. I like the idea of attaching to the power inlet so that if a fuse had blown or something got inside the controller that needed to be removed, like the darn lizard that electrocuted himself in my #4 controller Christmas 2011. Surprised that bugger didn't create any other issues in there! It was well fried too. LOL

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ny_yankee_25 wrote:

Wayne K wrote:
I have been searching about remote mounting the status led and I have found a few articles, but the one I found that looks like it could of been helpful is from duke and it is old and has no pictures showing with it. Does anyone have any more info on what panel mount led to use and wether to series it or paralel it or take the old one out?
Thanks
Wayne

I did exactly what you want, I think! And I love it and recommend it. Between the remote LED, and the RJ45-ECS's I never have to open the box!

Yes that is exactly what I wanted and very similar to the article that I remember seeing way back some time ago. Thanks for the info. I also have the RJ45-ECS's in mine and it makes it nice.
Thanks
Wayne

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ny_yankee_25 wrote:

Wayne K wrote:
I have been searching about remote mounting the status led and I have found a few articles, but the one I found that looks like it could of been helpful is from duke and it is old and has no pictures showing with it. Does anyone have any more info on what panel mount led to use and wether to series it or paralel it or take the old one out?
Thanks
Wayne

I did exactly what you want, I think! And I love it and recommend it. Between the remote LED, and the RJ45-ECS's I never have to open the box!

Yes that is exactly what I wanted and very similar to the article that I remember seeing way back some time ago. Thanks for the info. I also have the RJ45-ECS's in mine and it makes it nice.
Thanks
Wayne

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ny_yankee_25 wrote:

I'm unclear on the spec's. But here is the link to it, http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062568

I have the same one installed on all 7 of my PC controllers., since 2009, without any issues!


Yes, that is the 12vdc automotive LED. It will light under lesser voltages, just not as bright as it is with 12vdc going to it. It has a built in internal dropping resistor inside the housing. If you look closely at the photo on the Radio Shack site, you can make out the body of the voltage dropping resistor in there. Basically it's just a standard low voltage LED that without the resistor in series with it, 12vdc would destroy it.

They also have it in green: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062569 for those that would like to use a different color.

No weatherproofing needs to be done with these LED's as they are already pretty much weatherproof in their design. I've used them on vehicles and other projects outdoors, never had a problem with them getting wet or any other related issues when used outside. They're basically a "sealed" LED.

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ny_yankee_25 wrote:

Here is a picture of my RJ45-ECS's

BTW: Where do you get those RJ45-ECS's? I think I'd like to add some of those to my controllers, would sure make it easier on set up not having to open them up to put in the cat5 cabling all the time!

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