Using Molex connectors on controllers

[Kenneth D]

I have a question for those of you who make custom connectors, cords and enclosures.

I have thought about making some custom cables to go between my arches (and maybe some other light groups) and my controllers and eliminating the dangles and extension cords and some of the redundant neutral wires.

My plan is to use Molex connectors on the controller side, and then make a custom harness going to the arches (two 8 channel arches per controller). I have soldered together the light strings (two 100 and one 50 count light string) per channel to eliminate most of the plugs. This still leaves one fused male plug per channel, so I will still need some female vampire plugs, or I can use the female receptacle I cut off the end. OR I could eliminate ALL the plugs and solder directly, but this leaves no fuses in the circuit. I know this is less than one amp per string and channel and well below any limits, but there is always that little voice that says "What if...".

Any have any thoughts? What have some of you old pros done?

[cenote]

Hi Kenneth

Touchy subject on boards on both topics. I will speak for my self, and I use a lot of molex connectors in my displays. If you do a search on molex connectors on this forum, I am sure you will hey a jack pit full of info. Only advice I give is go big, use the .095 sized pins, not the smaller ones. Have had a little bit of an issue on smaller pins bending unpluging and pluging them in so much. Other that, no problems.

On cutting out the fuses, I won't say either way...but I do not have any on my strings...

[Tim Fischer]

I'm probably doing some "fountain poles" this year and considered using some molex connectors. The jury is still out if I'd put them on the controllers themselves, since this would decrease flexibility.... If I did, I'd probably want some sort of "break out box" or harness that I could plug in standard lights for testing/troubleshooting or whatever.

[Tim Herberger]

cenote wrote:

Hi Kenneth

On cutting out the fuses, I won't say either way...but I do not have any on my strings...

The triacs make an excellent fuse.

[-klb-]

I've got one controller at home, and one for the city show that I made a 2 foot long molexed pigtail for. Those 2 controllers are set up single inlet, and are only controlling 16 strings of LED. So, I replaced the fuses on the controller with 3A fast acting fuses. I don't really worry too much about supportability on those. The one at the house is probably 20 feet up in the air, and if it fails during the season, it will just stay failed until I can get a ladder to it, which most likely will be during take down...

The one for the city show must be 30+ feet in the air, and if it has issues, it will just stay as is until we next have the lift on site. (at tear down)

[Rafter Bar R]

I use the .093 for the 120 volt controllers and the .063 for the low voltage controllers.

[Steve Constantino]

I use Molex and CPC connectors. I don't think I have any single runs in my display. Everything has a multi conductor cable in my display. I have over 200 Molex ends (.093) and about 60 or so CPC's (series 1). My multi cable is a Belden cable. I have three different sizes, 22awg, 20awg, and 18awg from 5 conductors to 40 conductors.

The only advice I have is buy the crimp tool. I crimp and solder mine, but it is not necessary to do both.

Steve

[J_Plak]

I use the.093 Connector also I do solder them
The .062 rated up to 5 amperes per circuit
.093 rated up to 12 amperes per circuit
A very handy tool to have is a Molex Extractor tool

I been using the molex Connectors pre LEDs Days :-)

[Kenneth D]

I have seen several posts on the connectors themselves and some multi controller boxes with connectors on them (but not Molex). I was thinking about using a short pig-tail with four hots and two grounds per six conductor plug. That way I could always connect some dangles if I needed to, and I wouldn't have to make anything too specialized. And I could get the pins and plugs in bulk.

For my arches, I wouldn't need very long cables, but how many folks put connectors (or female receptacle ends) on the end of there multis, or do you set them up permanent to the lights. I guess it depends on the individual and the light cluster?

[cenote]

Here is what the ends of all my arches and century tree looks like.


Attached files

[cenote]

J_Plak wrote:

A very handy tool to have is a Molex Extractor tool

I been using the molex Connectors pre LEDs Days :-)

Wish I had one at times.

Damm jerry, shouldn't age your self like that.

CN

[J_Plak]

:cool:

[Rafter Bar R]

I am curious if gm weatherpack connectors are suitable for 120 volt use?

[J_Plak]

lonewolvie wrote:

I am curious if gm weatherpack connectors are suitable for 120 volt use?

http://www.whiteproducts.com/faqs.shtml

The system is rated 0.05–16.0 VDC, 0-20A. Weather Pack connector configurations are available for one to six wires.

[eldoradoboy]

I use weatherpak connectors but not for 120 volt use.. perhaps for LED's but the pins seem pretty small on most of them.. my guess is you could use them for 120 volt, they probably just arent approved for it...

they work great for about anything low voltage though as long as you assemble them correctly....
-Christopher

[jimswinder]

Anybody ever thought of using the type of plugs used for trailer lights?

I know that is a 12 volt system, but would it work for Christmas Lights?

Seems like they would be pretty weather proof.

[Dan Ancona]

I pulled a couple of harness from the engine blocks of cars, but haven't used them yet. Might be a cheaper route. I use the Molex ones currently.

[cenote]

jimswinder wrote:

Anybody ever thought of using the type of plugs used for trailer lights?

I know that is a 12 volt system, but would it work for Christmas Lights?

Seems like they would be pretty weather proof.

Thought about it, but found to be to expensive. Best thing I have found too is Molex's and I also salvage parts from a local junk yard and grab wire harnesses. They are pretty good, and are weather proof. The main wire harness that goes threw the front to the fuse/computer is perfect, comes with at least 20-30 pairs of 18-20g wire with at least 2' of wire on both sides of plug before teeing off.

[jimswinder]

When you guys use the Molex, do you use one common neutral, or still use pairs of hot/neutral in each Molex plug?

[J_Plak]

I use use one common neutral for AC and for DC use one common Hot.....

also keep in mind to add up the amps, on the wire &connectors use for one common leg