Ctb16pckit

[Steven]

Jeff Millard wrote:

How do you folks intend to use these to lock the Keptel or LOR boxes?

The LOR boxes I received in 2007 have F connectors built in. (The ones received in 2008 have a different design that don't have the F connectors.)



Attached files

[Steven]

Here's how the locking F connectors work with these boxes:



Attached files

[Kenneth D]

I just got done building a few kits and have one channel that won't work. I have checked the solder connections, the obvious. I even used an ohm meter to check from pin of one component through the solder joint and trace to the pin of the next component, including going from triac trough 220 res to opto iso and opto iso through 470 res pack to flip flop.

That leaves possibly a bad connection on the flip flop or a bad component.

It looks like pin 2 and 6 on the opto iso have N/C. Is this correct?

Is there something that shows where the input to the flip-flops are for each channel?

The next question is how likely is it to have a bad/overheated component and how to test or where to start.

Can I jump from a pin on one component to its neighbor to check things. Like the input or out put on the opto iso. I don't want to overlad anything and cause more damage.


Thanks

[Kenneth D]

Never mind. My opto iso was in backwards! I can't believe how much time I spent looking at it and didn't "see" it! Talk about a rookie mistake. I got it out and turned around. Now I hope I didn't melt anything in the process.

[-klb-]

I've never done it on one of these, but I have done it a couple of times on projects that I had designed. Especially on the ones in the white packages, that Fairchild logo next to pin 4 draws your eye more than the pin 1 indent on the case, making it really easy to accidentally put them in backwards.

[sjmiller]

Kenneth,

I had all of my parts laid out for a build, and right after I finished soldering in R1 - and flipped the board to check it out - I saw that my R1 was still on the layout sheet. I had grabbed the wrong SIP resister - and soldered it in.... a 470 ohm instead of the 4.7K...

I just wiggled the SIP until all of the leads broke off - then used my Solda-Pullit to suck everything off the board.

This is an impressive hobby, everyone is more then ready to help one and other. People build their controllers, if it doesn't work the forum jumps in with troubleshooting help.

Every major corporation could take product support tips from the LOR staff, prompt courtious replys to us customers.... What a concept.

Steve