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friskybri
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Any help on why my channel 16 wont turn on. I got 3 units to work with no issues and one that everything works except channel 16. I looked at the U19, r27,q15 and don't see any solder issues or bridges. I am also not for sure but when you reset by pulling the jumper on jo does that reset the unit number to 0 or will it still stay as unit 4.

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Were these units kits that you soldered together?

Are you sure that you got the resistor networks in the correct locations? Of the 5 resistor networks only ONE is different than the other 4.

From what I recall the unit ID is NOT reset when doing a board reset. This is recalling information that Dan himself posted some time ago.

Chuck

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Double check that pin 1 of U19 is in the right place.. Also check the solder work on U5..

That and what you listed is pretty much the likely candidates..

If everything looks OK, it might be worth going around and reheating, and maybe adding a little fine solder to all those components....

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checked those also 472 is up top and the 4 on the sides are 471. I just reheated and added some to the r19. Powering up now to check to see if that got it. king of frustrating that the first 2 worked then the 4th one I did. worked. the third is kicking my butt. OK scratch that issue. Hallelujah. would have r19 caused it. I reheated that and it worked. I was dancing in the room when my kids came in and the strange look on their face. Thanks guys.

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I found that out on the fuse holder when I went to put one in and i couldn't. That was hard enough cant imagine with something smaller and more pins. Now on to kit 6. Thanks again. I cant think of a nicer bunch of people then on here.

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Done with number 6. Thanks Jeff, KLB and cmoore. Its nice to have friends point you in the right direction. Few questions for you. Why is there an extra neutral tab? Why is there so many pins on J0 if only the second row is being used? Now I am going to sit back and have a few beers tonight. Tomorrow putting them into the broadbandstore boxes. ITs good to have a few weeks off from work to get this stuff done.

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The extra neutral tab is used to tie the two banks together if you are configuring it for a single power input.. There is also an extra tab on the right hot bus past the fuse to tie over to the left inlet..

As for the header, there are pins for ground, 5V, and 9V, as well as the two trigger inputs.. Also some other things that may have uses down the road..

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friskybri wrote:

Tomorrow putting them into the broadbandstore boxes.



Hi Friskybri,

I also bought some of those boxes from BBS. Although I got the 12X12X5 box. Did yours come with the funky hex screw that you need their CAN wrench to get it out so you can open the box? I bought the CAN wrench, but when my boxes arrived. They did not have the funky hex screw.

Thanks and sorry for the hi-jack.

Max
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Thanks KLb

Max, I did get the can wrench and it also didn't come with any bolts. I am guessing sense the wrench comes with two different sizes they leave that up to you to get. I will have to post a pic when I am done today. I put my 9x9x3 box onto a 3/4 12x9 wood painted in black acrylic paint (speaker paint). Sames stuff I used on my touch screen jukebox. I might paint the box with the same stuff.

Attached files 173182=9897-jukebox2.jpg

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Max. Called BBS and the nuts that go on the boxes is a f-connector. I was looking all over lowes, menards and electrical stores for something that would fit. So I guess you can use those to work. I tried one off of my Coax cable and it fit onto it and screwed onto the box.

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Thanks Friskybri,

I was going to call them myself but had not gotten around to getting the phone number as of yet. I did send an email to them last Sunday. You would think that they would have gotten back by now. Thats kind of strange, I have seen those security nuts in the past. Part of them is that they have a ring around the nut that is mounted in a way that is just spins. So you could not grasp it with any kind of pliers and turn the nut free. Thats what I expected this would be. So using a F connector, anyone with a deep well socket can open the box.

Well anyway, thanks for making the call and posting the answer.

Max

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Here is an ironic coincidence for you all.. Tuesday, I decided that I probably ought to build my last kit from last year, before the ones from the sale arrive. So I at least started on it, my 8th kit, before the next four arrived. I put it 100% together, as well as the 9th one before I tested them both..

As it would turn out, channel 16 of the 8th one wouldn't turn on.. Taking it out of the case, removing the heat sink, and looking under bright light revealed two cold solder joints. One on R27, and one on U19...

Oh well.. On to the 10th one..

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Ya klb,

You would think us old farts or old hands would by now stop doing that (cold soldeirng joiint). Happens to the best of us still. I am finially getting around to building my first kit. Keep getting intrupted by lifes other things. I might be a bit tightly wound, but I am trying to get a little fillet on the top side too. Looks like I got a bit carried away on a few ICs. Can see the solder has creeped up a few legs. At least the two large black ICs (dont have "U" numbers in front of me) leads were long enough that I could bend the tips over to hold them in place. Just wished the leads on the opto isolators were longer along with the two sockets. May the next four go together without any of them blasted cold solder joints. I have only 3 more to do myself. You must be rich, leaving one board undone from last year.:D

Max

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The one unbuilt from last year was supposed to be built, and serve as either:


  1. Replacement card for any failures at the house
  2. Replacement card for any failures at the city park show
  3. Realistically - channels for any extra must have feature we found at home during set up...


But, we grew the city show by 19 controllers, and the associated elements to go with them, all with a late start last year... I almost did not do a show at the house, and only a subset of the house show got put out.

The other thing I took away from last year is an appreciation of how much nicer it is to do the soldering in a slightly cool garage than a somewhat too warm garage. So none of this "I've got plenty of time" procrastination on assembling them...

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Max-Paul wrote:

So using a F connector, anyone with a deep well socket can open the box.

You can buy locking F connectors like the cable companies use:
073674.jpg

... and then buy the tool to unlock them, which very few have:
image.php?type=P&id=1912
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Steven wrote:

Max-Paul wrote:
So using a F connector, anyone with a deep well socket can open the box.

You can buy locking F connectors like the cable companies use:
073674.jpg

... and then buy the tool to unlock them, which very few have:
image.php?type=P&id=1912
Thanks Steven,

ah, could you give me a hint as to were one can find these. As I was typeing this I see the vendors name on the tools handle. Will try to google "Cable Pro".

Thanks

Max
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Max-Paul wrote:

ah, could you give me a hint as to were one can find these.

Here's a hint: Go back to my post and click on the picture of the tool. Then click "Add to Cart".

Then, click on the picture of the connector. Enter the number of boxes you wish to protect and click "add to cart".

:D
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Steven,

Your the man. Didn't realize that those pictures were hot linked. I believe that this is just what I was looking for. Dang Broadband store left me to believe that I needed their 7 dollar CAN wench, when in fact they did even install or include a lousy F connector with the box in the first place.

Going to order up enough for all 4 boxes. You must be in the trade to know were to find these. I looked for S & Gs to see if BBS had the tool also. No dice I did not see anything like the picture.

Again, Thanks Sir

Max

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Jeff Millard wrote:

How do you folks intend to use these to lock the Keptel or LOR boxes?

The LOR boxes I received in 2007 have F connectors built in. (The ones received in 2008 have a different design that don't have the F connectors.)



Attached files 173383=9906-856487007.JPG
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  • 3 months later...

I just got done building a few kits and have one channel that won't work. I have checked the solder connections, the obvious. I even used an ohm meter to check from pin of one component through the solder joint and trace to the pin of the next component, including going from triac trough 220 res to opto iso and opto iso through 470 res pack to flip flop.

That leaves possibly a bad connection on the flip flop or a bad component.

It looks like pin 2 and 6 on the opto iso have N/C. Is this correct?

Is there something that shows where the input to the flip-flops are for each channel?

The next question is how likely is it to have a bad/overheated component and how to test or where to start.

Can I jump from a pin on one component to its neighbor to check things. Like the input or out put on the opto iso. I don't want to overlad anything and cause more damage.


Thanks

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Never mind. My opto iso was in backwards! I can't believe how much time I spent looking at it and didn't "see" it! Talk about a rookie mistake. I got it out and turned around. Now I hope I didn't melt anything in the process.

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I've never done it on one of these, but I have done it a couple of times on projects that I had designed. Especially on the ones in the white packages, that Fairchild logo next to pin 4 draws your eye more than the pin 1 indent on the case, making it really easy to accidentally put them in backwards.

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