CTB16PCG2 show eventually slowing down/freezing; replace or something else?

[TallDude]

I inherited this controller, and it has been in use for many many years running 12+ hours a day every day. At start up the sequences runs fine (controlling a 30' tall neon sign's solid state relays to make the letters do cool stuff). Starts fine and at the right speed, around 10am or 11am depending on opening time. But by 6pm it is chugging slowly (1 sec between light changes may be 5 sec), or completely frozen. Then it is fine after its been off for the night. Can't power cycle it when frozen as it is part of a shared circuit that would kill other things. It had been fine for 10 months after I had redone all the shows, then started acting up.

Do I just need to replace the controller? It is an old unit. It feels like the memory is not dumping after it completes the sequences or the like. It has a dozen short sequences that it plays on a loop.

Thanks for any thoughts!

[TheDucks]

What is running the controller? (PC. Director or standalone)

FWIW there are  many Remote power Control units available. Not really  an issue if what the controller is running, is just relays (or low current).

Is there a CAT5 to the controller? Add a (home built) Splitter (pair) The second 'half' can control the power.

I built a box that uses the 9V from the previous controller to stage the power up on the next controller because all ON or Off frequently tripped the GFIC  (I use a relay from Elk Products) The Green pair IN, drives the relay. and does not continue.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VXA-F62RzfoBJ40XtePzS73kuKnSbzYG/view?usp=drive_link

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1i4Rq0HMi8JrbM70O_cT57iF-ereqJ5G6/view?usp=drive_link

OR Just supply 9-12V if no prior controller

 

 

[TallDude]

14 minutes ago, TheDucks said:

What is running the controller? (PC. Director or standalone)

FWIW there are  many Remote power Control units available. Not really  an issue if what the controller is running, is just relays (or low current).

Is there a CAT5 to the controller? Add a (home built) Splitter (pair) The second 'half' can control the power.

I built a box that uses the 9V from the previous controller to stage the power up on the next controller because all ON or Off frequently tripped the GFIC  (I use a relay from Elk Products) The Green pair IN, drives the relay. and does not continue.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VXA-F62RzfoBJ40XtePzS73kuKnSbzYG/view?usp=drive_link

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1i4Rq0HMi8JrbM70O_cT57iF-ereqJ5G6/view?usp=drive_link

OR Just supply 9-12V if no prior controller

 

 

Controller is only controlling SS Relays and is run by a Director; N2-G3-MP3. Directory is connected via a network cable and getting power that way; what would the splitter do for this? We are not tripping any GFCI's or breakers. When the timer circuit that turns off and on the LoR system as well as a lot of other systems turns things on the system works, so isn't resetting anything that is tripped.

Or are you saying that the Director is (eventually) not getting power and freezing/turning off? It isn't in a place a can check during operation (up in the neon sign, not safe to dig around live) so can't check that, but trying to figure out what you would be saying that this is fixing. I snagged the Director from our holiday show control box, and never had this issue prior with other system and it is far more demanding but uses different controllers.

Edited October 10, 2023 by TallDude

[k6ccc]

I think I am with TheDucks on this - first place I would be looking a power issue.  I think what he was suggesting was to power the director separately from the controller.  I don't know if that Director can be powered separately from the Cat-5 from the nearest controller (I've never used a Director).

How long is the Cat-5 from the Controller to the Director?

 

[TheDucks]

A splitter allows you to use the unused pairs in a CAT5 . LOR uses 3-6 (aux pwr to run the director) and 4-5 (the data)

That leave 1-2, 7-8 for other uses 😉  (FWIW I have 2 kinds of splitter. 1) is simply 2 LOR on a single CAT5 trunk (house wired) and the other is a LOR And Ethernet on the trunk)

I was suggesting the split CAT5 be used to reset (Cycle the power. use the NC contact. Apply voltage to the 'coil' to interrupt AC to the controller)

[TheDucks]

@k6ccc I think 25' was the limit using a good grade CAT5. But that may be the number for ELL's

[TheDucks]

Heat buildup? Is this at the Boardwalk?  Salty insulators and HV don't mix well

[TallDude]

1 hour ago, TheDucks said:

Heat buildup? Is this at the Boardwalk?  Salty insulators and HV don't mix well

Yup! It's our big CASINO sign. For where it's stationed I don't think it's dealing much with salt build up, but heat could definitely be a problem. The Director is in a sealed box with the controller (3' of cable), inside a giant metal box (no air flow) with all of the neon transformers. 

I think the next move is to get the Director out of the sign and bring it inside the main building and give the Director its own power (so it isn't trying to do power over 50' of network cable). Hopefully that fixes the problem.