Can't control my CTB16PCg3, but can connect, current show still running

[TheDucks]

But before you do that.

There is a button TEST OFF

That may allow you to use the network until a power cycle happens

[TheDucks]

2 hours ago, dgrant said:

Best advice I have for the OP would be to get another controller, program it the way you wish or use the software to control it, then swap out with the original. This would allow you to maintain the existing programming as a backup, while you create the new version. Then swap back as needed. Now comes a thought...just a thought, could we/he connect two sets of output AC cords together in parallel as such to the lights. Both controllers have two different ID addresses and both are daisy-chained together. If the parallel AC outputs will work, then this would allow him to run either one of the controllers, but not both. Obviously the AC input to the not-in-use controller would have to be disconnected first, before powering on the other. What I don't know is if it would fry the mosfets of the powered off controller. Could put diodes into the output connections...

No No, very dangerous and I have no idea how the other (unpowered) controller would behaves (or survive)

[MakeItGlow]

I have wiped the controller just so I could start from scratch. I can now control the lights, and was able to find what was wired wrong and what isn't working (climbing up a 30 foot vertical neon sign is exciting, even when off).

 

No I just need to learn how to load a show onto the controller. I have done SD Card shows before via a director, but never directly onto a controller!

[TheDucks]

50 minutes ago, MakeItGlow said:

I have wiped the controller just so I could start from scratch. I can now control the lights, and was able to find what was wired wrong and what isn't working (climbing up a 30 foot vertical neon sign is exciting, even when off).

 

No I just need to learn how to load a show onto the controller. I have done SD Card shows before via a director, but never directly onto a controller!

In HU, click standalone (next to Firmware button): Select ID at top:Select sequence to download: Click Download (To me it is really an Upload to the controller): wait for the status of done.  That is pretty much the same for most controllers. (Note: Only 1 controller interconnected should have a SA sequence. If interconnected it is a Master (the one with the sequence) the others are plain old regular mode (I had 3@ CMB24 as slaves to another CMB, running a simple Flood sequence)

[MakeItGlow]

@TheDucks

 

I go to export my sequence in the Sequncer as an LAS, says I have motion effects even though I don't. Even deleted all motion rows. I have the "Select unit to configure" showing the correct device. I Select the LAS, click Download, shows progress through 12/12 (12 bytes, is a 70sec show with 12 channels, don't know if that's right). Set to Run when power on.

 

No show playing. I can delete the sequence and control it again. Any thoughts?


EDIT: gave up trying Stand Alone, grabbed our Director, and will just buy another one before we start up our Holiday Lights show.  Able to run shows now, thanks for all the help!

Edited March 7, 2023 by MakeItGlow
Clarified sequence, not show

[TheDucks]

Sorry, still on S4.  (HU is the same on S6 , but tat is far as I go). I am licensed for S6, but eyes glaze over, so I use S4)

[dgrant]

17 hours ago, TheDucks said:

No No, very dangerous and I have no idea how the other (unpowered) controller would behaves (or survive)

Yes, I know that. I was just thinking out-loud as such that it might be possible electrically/electronically speaking. I've not tried it myself ever but, using diodes or diode bridges, it might indeed be possible but yes, it might be dangerous and yes, it might fry something which I mentioned. Certainly not for anyone whom is not trained in such things.

[TheDucks]

I applaud the OP for knowing that they don't have the knowledge to work around really High Voltage and playing seriously safe 👍

I am a whole lot puzzled how a CTB could even be used to control or even be near a gas discharge sign. (the last and only time, I looked inside one, they still used a Motor spinning a cam shaft which operated contacts. We did have a tanformer from one in my schools Electric shop, which we made a neat Jacobs ladder with  😁)

1) the transformer to make 12KV+ would have 1 heck of an inductive kick on the 120V side. You can't dim or rapid flicker.

2)The EMI from the neon tubes is pretty nasty (just get near a neon sign with an AM radio)

OR

Does the sign have an Auxiliary, non-gas discharge section, like Marquis lights, Open/closed light, Arrow that is actually in a metal isolated compartment?

[MakeItGlow]

@TheDucks

 

Ooooh yeah, don't wanna get zapped.

We are using the LoR controller to fire off solid state relays which energize a 5,000V transformer (Had the value off, oops). 24 transformers in total; 6 letters on the sign, two sides, red and green for each letter. Each channel controls a single color for one letter on both sides of the sign. See the images for our box, and the sign (I am nearly 7' tall for scale).

[TheDucks]

Did you set those 12 G3 ports dimming curve to on off (use HU). A good plan .

Other than needing a small amount of wire management (zip tie), that is a relatively safe (no more hazardous than a normal G3) install

💡 Get a LOR network weather resistant dongle  and mount for outside access (place where water can't enter OR run a outdoor CAT6 to an indoor point )

https://store.lightorama.com/collections/cat5-cables/products/rjwada

The included pigtail is replacable if it is not long enough.

DO NOT run the CAT5 in the same conduit as the power

[MakeItGlow]

@TheDucks

I was possibly going to use clip tracks rather than zip ties, not a fan of zip ties because you have to cut them to rework the wires. For holds like that we use rip-rap, easy to take off and replace. This is what it looked like when I inherited the system, will eventually manage it better.

Plan is to run a small conduit out of the box, along edge of the roof, and then tap into the conduit we have for the security cameras. This will get us into one of the breaker rooms where the timer circuit lives (sign turns on with a lot of other night systems), and will attach the Director there rather than up in the sign.