Jay Czerwinski Posted September 30, 2020 Share Posted September 30, 2020 I have a CTB16D Blue Board on v 4.40 that started to act up. Channel 3 acts like a triac failure and often stays on, but it responds to a couple of other channels and turns on/off with channel 4 and 7. I thought I saw it failing as with the show off it came on by itself and flickered like a short, but now it is working sporadically. Can a bad triac respond with other channels? Thanks for any tips/advice. Jay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheDucks Posted September 30, 2020 Share Posted September 30, 2020 that sounds more like a bit decode error. how is the board mounted (does it have factory heat sinks?) Was it a Factory built board or a Kit? Look for solder splashes/smeared traces on the CPU side of the channel isolator (the white chip) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay Czerwinski Posted September 30, 2020 Author Share Posted September 30, 2020 2 hours ago, TheDucks said: that sounds more like a bit decode error. how is the board mounted (does it have factory heat sinks?) Was it a Factory built board or a Kit? Look for solder splashes/smeared traces on the CPU side of the channel isolator (the white chip) This is one of my first ever purchased units back around 2009 I think. It is a pro version built in the factory in a large and heavy metal box. I cant see the heat sinks because they are enclosed, but I'm imagining they are done well. I've used it in a dry environment over the years with no problems - so I would probably rule out solder splashes and smears. Also, wondering if leaving it on until I can resolve it is bad - the other channels work fine and the glitches are probably not noticeable to anyone watching the show - so my wife tells me. (You know how that makes YOU and ME feel!! - LOL) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheDucks Posted September 30, 2020 Share Posted September 30, 2020 5 hours ago, Jay Czerwinski said: This is one of my first ever purchased units back around 2009 I think. It is a pro version built in the factory in a large and heavy metal box. I cant see the heat sinks because they are enclosed, but I'm imagining they are done well. I've used it in a dry environment over the years with no problems - so I would probably rule out solder splashes and smears. Also, wondering if leaving it on until I can resolve it is bad - the other channels work fine and the glitches are probably not noticeable to anyone watching the show - so my wife tells me. (You know how that makes YOU and ME feel!! - LOL) Good news (sortta 😛). We can rule out user construction. 👍 I noticed your locale is GA. GA = insane Humidity . Unfortunately DRY to most folk, means no water. Kept indoors. Corrosion happens with just moist air. It is accelerated with salt air or other chemical pollutants. In addition, manufacturing process (flux) residue can strike over time (like 'Laser Rot" that got a couple of my late 1970's disks) If your vision is up to it, open it up and look CLOSE at the solder points are (top side, so you do not disturb the heat sink). If they look a bit 'fuzzy' or green, you have bad issues. A dull-flat grey or brite silver would be normal. (NB I had you only look at the EASY side. Your problem could be underneath, where that heat sink hides the traces from easy view) Cobwebs/cocoons can conduct if moist or have collected dust (remember, they are sticky). Electronic parts prays might help wash this away 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay Czerwinski Posted September 30, 2020 Author Share Posted September 30, 2020 47 minutes ago, TheDucks said: Good news (sortta 😛). We can rule out user construction. 👍 I noticed your locale is GA. GA = insane Humidity . Unfortunately DRY to most folk, means no water. Kept indoors. Corrosion happens with just moist air. It is accelerated with salt air or other chemical pollutants. In addition, manufacturing process (flux) residue can strike over time (like 'Laser Rot" that got a couple of my late 1970's disks) If your vision is up to it, open it up and look CLOSE at the solder points are (top side, so you do not disturb the heat sink). If they look a bit 'fuzzy' or green, you have bad issues. A dull-flat grey or brite silver would be normal. (NB I had you only look at the EASY side. Your problem could be underneath, where that heat sink hides the traces from easy view) Cobwebs/cocoons can conduct if moist or have collected dust (remember, they are sticky). Electronic parts prays might help wash this away They are so clean and pristine, but I'll check that out - but for 2 years they were exclusively indoor in Southern California, then 5 years inside of a garage in Southern California, and then the last 4 years here in GA they are always in a plastic storage bin with the plugs inside and the extension cords going out through a slot under the handle. I'd be amazed at humidity and even bugs, but I suppose that is a possibility. Also - is it bad to continue to use good channels on a controller with a bad triac? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jfuller8400 Posted September 30, 2020 Share Posted September 30, 2020 No, you can continue to use all of the other good channels. It won't hurt or harm anything. Another thing to try would be to do a factory reset on the board and see if that helps. I would also open a trouble ticket with LOR as they may have other troubleshooting/resolution steps. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LOR Staff Posted September 30, 2020 Share Posted September 30, 2020 jfuller hit it 100% on the nose: You probably only need a factory reset on it to get it to behave again. Check the manual on how to reset the controller and then give it a test. You can go ahead and use the controller, it won't hurt anything. If you would like for us to look at & repair it, open a help desk ticket :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay Czerwinski Posted October 2, 2020 Author Share Posted October 2, 2020 On 9/30/2020 at 1:26 PM, DevMike said: jfuller hit it 100% on the nose: You probably only need a factory reset on it to get it to behave again. Check the manual on how to reset the controller and then give it a test. THANK YOU! 1. The Factory reset did it! 2. The manual did not have it - but an online link on the LOR page did have it - http://www1.lightorama.com/controller-reset/ 3. Thank you to know that I can use the other working channels without concern - I have another controller that acts more like a bad triac and only on one channel acting independently of any other channels' commands. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LOR Staff Posted October 2, 2020 Share Posted October 2, 2020 Don't thank me, thank jFuller. He was first (and right). As a rule, ANY time ANY LOR controller starts to 'be weird', factory reset it. The flash memory/RAM inside the processor can sometimes get corrupted (storage? voltage spike? moon phase?). A factory reset will fix it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay Czerwinski Posted October 4, 2020 Author Share Posted October 4, 2020 ...And thank you to @jfuller8400!!!! ☺️ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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