Ineedmorelights Posted October 11, 2015 Share Posted October 11, 2015 I'm interested in purchasing the Inputpup for my show this year, but I'm really confused by the LOR website accessory power description. The diagram shows a USB485 directly from the computer to the Inputpup, but everything I have says that the USB485 does not provide accessory power. Now, I don't want to run the Inputpup directly next to my computer my daisy chain network - I want it 2 - 3 controllers down the line, with another 2 - 3 controllers connected after the Inputpup. So, I'm thinking the power should come from the controller prior to the Inputpup in the daisy chain. Is this correct or do I need to upgrade to the USB485B? Any help is greatly appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ineedmorelights Posted October 11, 2015 Author Share Posted October 11, 2015 Follow up question: If I don't need a USB485B, can I change the Inputpup controller ID using my USB485? Or do I need to connect it directly to my computer via Ethernet to Inputpup? I've never seen that done if anyone has any advise... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis Laff Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 I run mine inline just like any other controller Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ineedmorelights Posted October 12, 2015 Author Share Posted October 12, 2015 I run mine inline just like any other controller Are you running a USB485 or USB485B, Dennis? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis Laff Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 USB 485 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k6ccc Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 Same here. It's at the end of the line. The next controller is a CMB16D-QC (6 channel DC controller). Works just fine - every day of the year. BTW, you cant run it on an enhanced network. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jstorms Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 Cable it up, daisy chain it, like a regular controller. It gets it's power from pin3 (pulling from memory) from the cat5. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmmienLightFan Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 It gets power from other controllers like the CTB16PC. Don't plug it into the ethernet jack The USB485B is for is you are using it with no other controllers on the network, I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DevMike Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 All of our AC controllers will supply ACC power on the Cat 5. As long as you have one of those on the same cable run as an Input Pup, it will get it's power that way. If you do not have any AC controllers on the line, it needs to get power from somewhere. You can supply it with a USB485B (as long as there is wire between it and the input pup), or use the +9 power input on the controller: http://www1.lightorama.com/Documents/InputPup.pdf Page 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ineedmorelights Posted October 12, 2015 Author Share Posted October 12, 2015 I really appreciate all the feedback - makes the decision to purchase so much easier. This should be a fun last minute add for the show! Deployments have been rough on us the last few years so I haven't added anything for two years. This year I've built a wooden sleigh as a toy donation box and I'm going to put a "control panel" on the sleigh like Santa would be using that will allow kids to control sections of the lights on/off for 15 min out of every hour. You all are awesome. Thank you for the help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plasmadrive Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 All of our AC controllers will supply ACC power on the Cat 5. As long as you have one of those on the same cable run as an Input Pup, it will get it's power that way. If you do not have any AC controllers on the line, it needs to get power from somewhere. You can supply it with a USB485B (as long as there is wire between it and the input pup), or use the +9 power input on the controller: http://www1.lightorama.com/Documents/InputPup.pdf Page 2How much current for a Pup and an ELL? I want to battery operate this combo for remote starting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DevMike Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 How much current for a Pup and an ELL? I want to battery operate this combo for remote starting.You know, I'm not really sure. I know it is not much -- we are talking 24AWG so it won't be more than 2A. Let me ask the hardware folks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plasmadrive Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 Thanks.. that would be helpful.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DevMike Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 300mA. Like I said, not much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plasmadrive Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 300mA. Like I said, not much.Thanks. That should give me plenty of time on a set of batteries.. I just have to stay above about 9vdc right? or maybe 7.5vdc for the regs to work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DevMike Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 More than 9V, but not more than 12V. 9V is what drives most of the equipment after being regulated, and you generally need a little more than that to get the regulator to function (like you said). I would say somewhere around 10.5V-12V. Please also consider voltage drop across any distance of CAT 5. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plasmadrive Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 9V? Not the standard 5vdc regulators? That is unexpected. That is going to make it a bit tougher to fit batteries.. I would guess the Input Pup uses 5v on the board but I wasn't sure about the ELL.. Must use the 9V for the radio portion. I was going to stuff a Pup in an ELL if it would fit and see where that lead me. haha.. Thanks Mike.. Craig Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plasmadrive Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 9V? Not the standard 5vdc regulators? That is unexpected. That is going to make it a bit tougher to fit batteries.. I would guess the Input Pup uses 5v on the board but I wasn't sure about the ELL.. Must use the 9V for the radio portion. I was going to stuff a Pup in an ELL if it would fit and see where that lead me. haha.. Thanks Mike.. Craig Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DevMike Posted October 14, 2015 Share Posted October 14, 2015 V4 ELLs use 9V. V5 ELLs use 5V. I believe the input pup uses a 5V regulator (I have one here in the lab, but I am in the middle of moving and it has 'disappeared' for the moment. If so and if you have only V5 ELLs, then you should be able to get away with 6V to 7V on the line (headspace for the 5V regulator and all). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plasmadrive Posted October 15, 2015 Share Posted October 15, 2015 Mike, I did some testing and with 6x AA batteries I was able to run both the V4 ELL and the Input Pup. Draw was about 75mA Q and about 98mA triggering.. I ran the voltage up to 12v with no real uptick in current draw to speak of. I am not sure of the distance I am getting as I assume the xmitter is probably getting the raw input voltage. I will test that tonight.. but at about 40' works great! Thanks for the info. Craig Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DevMike Posted October 16, 2015 Share Posted October 16, 2015 Excellent. The current figure I gave was for what a controller would put on a line. Good to know we draw a lot less than that for ELLs and the Inputpup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plasmadrive Posted October 16, 2015 Share Posted October 16, 2015 OK.. last night I ran my contraption of an Input Pup and ELL (V4). I ran it off of the 6 AA battery pack.. worked like a charm at 150-200 feet. triggers were instant... I even made one for a blank 1 sec animated show called all off.. In case I need it to end everything for some reason. I can't be more pleased with both.. Thanks again for the info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DevMike Posted October 16, 2015 Share Posted October 16, 2015 Wait? I didn't kill any babies in Africa with my poor customer service? That's a change! (Reference: At this time of year anyone working help desk tickets/forums/phones/etc is accused at least once per day of killing children in/of/with [insert group name of children] because a customer's display is not running. Honestly. You would think we are devils incarnate!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plasmadrive Posted October 16, 2015 Share Posted October 16, 2015 (edited) LOL... In the words of the immortal Nipsey Russelll, "The devil made me do it honey!" Edited October 16, 2015 by plasmadrive Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plasmadrive Posted October 19, 2015 Share Posted October 19, 2015 So the control box I made to trigger my shows and lights worked like a champ. 140' away from the computer that was in the house and for hours we used that box to run shows and turn on all the lights and so on.. Simple and clean.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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