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Repairing LED's


jimswinder

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Jim

Tried the same technique on a few strings this winter works well ,once you get the first set done the rest are easier to do .

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jimswinder wrote:

Dennis Cherry wrote:
The tester for LED light strings is almost here. Working out a few more design issues before production.

The Product name officially will be "LED Keeper" can test Full wave, Half Wave or chasing LED strings. In about a minute or two can find open LED's, opens circuits, and weak LEDs keeping the other LEDs from full intensity.

The official announcement has not been made yet but will be sometime this spring.
Sounds like I should set aside my LED strings till Spring and move onto another project!!! :)
You will not be sorry, the tester will test the entire failed string at once. easy to locate the failed LED to just one or up to 70 in series at one time. Sealed on replaceable LED's no problem.

This is been submitted for patent as of last year.

Just working out production problems but will be available in a few months.
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Dennis Cherry wrote:



Just working out production problems but will be available in a few months.
any idea on an approximate selling price?
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jimswinder wrote:

Dennis Cherry wrote:


Just working out production problems but will be available in a few months.
any idea on an approximate selling price?

Not finalized but should be in the $25-30.00 range.
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Dennis Cherry wrote:

jimswinder wrote:
Dennis Cherry wrote:


Just working out production problems but will be available in a few months.
any idea on an approximate selling price?

Not finalized but should be in the $25-30.00 range.

2 please...:cool:
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Another question...

There are 4 "blobs" (rectifiers?) within my blue strings, one on either end and two in the middle separating each section of lights.

I have several strings that have sections where the lights are just "dim"..so figured it was a bad rectifier. I also used Tim Fischers method of testing, as seen here:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/8111378684/doc/10150488701253685/

And when I did his test, the dim section of lights went totally out? Don't know what that means? Anyone?

Anyway, I figured I had a bad rectifier, so I replaced it with what I thought was a good one...but same results...dim lights.

So my question...are all the rectifiers in a string equal? Have the same resistance?

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DSE wrote:


Sounds like Tims is easier...and cheaper...and still doesn't sound like it tests the resistor itself. :shock:

I fixed about 7 strings this evening using Tim's method...works like a charm to find a bad LED..but still don't have an answer about fixing a string with a bad resistor thingie...
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jimswinder wrote:

DSE wrote:

Sounds like Tims is easier...and cheaper...and still doesn't sound like it tests the resistor itself.  :shock:

I fixed about 7 strings this evening using Tim's method...works like a charm to find a bad LED..but still don't have an answer about fixing a string with a bad resistor thingie...

Jim, more than likely there are 2 diodes at either end of the string along with the resistor, if it is a full wave light string. I had 2 strings I just repaired last night by cutting out the blobs and making new ones. I used the resistor calculator to determine what size I needed and then used 4 new diodes to make the rectifier. I take a small piece of 3/4 inch heatshrink (a smaller size could be used, but I have a lot of green in this size)
I fill it with hot glue after soldering everything, and shrink it down. ends up being about the size of the blobs I cut off.
Anyway, both strings lit back up and have been on all night for testing purposes.
It is a lot of work to get a string back on but it's worth it to me.
I will be converting 64 boxes of multi leds from Target to single colors, and full wave.
That should be fun....:shock:
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Could someone explain to me how does Tim's method work without burning up a hand full of LEDs. From what I have read,you push a stick pin into the wire leading from a blob to the first LED. Then follow that wire going through the next 8 LEDs and push another stick pin in the wire between the 8th and 9th LED. And there is a jumper wire between the two stick pins. Now this might be a big thing if it lights up the string now. But lets say your half way or more through the string. The way I thought I read it. The first stick pin stays at the beginning. It is the second one that keeps moving forward by 8 LEDs at a time. What I am getting at is that the LEDs from the 2nd stick pin to the next blob are going to have twice as much or more voltage across them. I would think that this is going to wipe out a bunch of LEDs. Yet I see a few have used this method and it works. What am I missing here?

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Max-Paul wrote:

Could someone explain to me how does Tim's method work without burning up a hand full of LEDs. From what I have read,you push a stick pin into the wire leading from a blob to the first LED. Then follow that wire going through the next 8 LEDs and push another stick pin in the wire between the 8th and 9th LED. And there is a jumper wire between the two stick pins. Now this might be a big thing if it lights up the string now. But lets say your half way or more through the string. The way I thought I read it. The first stick pin stays at the beginning. It is the second one that keeps moving forward by 8 LEDs at a time. What I am getting at is that the LEDs from the 2nd stick pin to the next blob are going to have twice as much or more voltage across them. I would think that this is going to wipe out a bunch of LEDs. Yet I see a few have used this method and it works. What am I missing here?
I think it is such a low voltage that is added it is no big deal...and you only do it long enough to see if the LED's light up...so they are only exposed to higher voltage for less than a second...
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Dennis watched the vid simply put AWSOME I have my order in.
Thanks for sharing this should be pinned on this forum and others.
Again congratulations on a good tool:D:D

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SteveMaris wrote:

Dennis Cherry wrote:
jimswinder wrote:
Dennis Cherry wrote:


Just working out production problems but will be available in a few months.
any idea on an approximate selling price?

Not finalized but should be in the $25-30.00 range.

2 please...:cool:

Me too! Or me two!
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Dennis Cherry wrote:

DSE wrote:
Very Nice Dennis

Here is a video I made show how the tester works.

The actual production unitl is what I have already shown.

http://vimeo.com/37397543

This looks like a really good solution.

Since this pierces the insulation, do we need to worry about potential GFI trips when the strings get wet?

Jerry
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LORisAwesome wrote:

Dennis Cherry wrote:
DSE wrote:
Very Nice Dennis

Here is a video I made show how the tester works.

The actual production unitl is what I have already shown.

http://vimeo.com/37397543

This looks like a really good solution.

Since this pierces the insulation, do we need to worry about potential GFI trips when the strings get wet?

Jerry

Should not be a problem, the point is small and the insulation is partly self healing.

Just like any Light String, if it is sitting in water you can have a GFI trip.
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