David Rise Posted October 3, 2011 Share Posted October 3, 2011 displaysinmotion_will wrote:Get a roll of solder braid from radioshack, when you heat the solder up the braid will suck up all the solderHave a sucker tool. works great, but some of the holes are really tiny and it's hard to get the iron in heat it up and get the tool in to suck it out. I really hope that I didn't ruin the board. That was my first attempt at soldering.My second and third boards are complete and functioning normally. I was very careful with them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
displaysinmotion_will Posted October 3, 2011 Share Posted October 3, 2011 Yeah after rereading your post I realized what you meant, however lor is real good at taking care of kit builders. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Rise Posted October 3, 2011 Share Posted October 3, 2011 Yeah, they sent me the 3 parts that I ruined, but I don't want to install them, if the board is ruined. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
displaysinmotion_will Posted October 3, 2011 Share Posted October 3, 2011 I would suggest sending the board into LOR repairs with it in its current state and they will take care of it for you.BTW what kit are you soldering the PC series or the CTB16KD? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dknahoolewa Posted October 3, 2011 Author Share Posted October 3, 2011 So here are the pics of the board. everything was in the right place and the right direction before i powered the controllor. I can only think that in the process of desoldering the processor i damaged it. Attached files Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dknahoolewa Posted October 3, 2011 Author Share Posted October 3, 2011 back side Attached files Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
displaysinmotion_will Posted October 3, 2011 Share Posted October 3, 2011 double check this resistor it looks very similar to another resistor used on the board if this one is not the 470k resistor it will fry the microprocessor Attached files Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dknahoolewa Posted October 3, 2011 Author Share Posted October 3, 2011 well i got the idea that if i swaped out the processor from my other kit it would work but that didn't work either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dknahoolewa Posted October 3, 2011 Author Share Posted October 3, 2011 its yellow purple yellow with the gold at the top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
displaysinmotion_will Posted October 3, 2011 Share Posted October 3, 2011 im also looking at the picture of the back of your board but i cant see it very clearly did you trim the leads from the triacs? because if you didnt more than likely they grounded out to the heatsinks, did you ever check the fuses to see if they were blown? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dknahoolewa Posted October 3, 2011 Author Share Posted October 3, 2011 process of elimination. trimmed triacs. replaced fuses.still nothing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
displaysinmotion_will Posted October 3, 2011 Share Posted October 3, 2011 dknahoolewa wrote: process of elimination. trimmed triacs. replaced fuses.still nothing.i have built over 140 kits now and still have made some minor mistakes, one time i replaced a blown triac and forgot to trim the leads on it and blew the fuses because it grounded out to the heatsinks.anyhow i suggest taking the microprocessor from the bad board and put it in the known good one and see if it works, as a tip from somebody that has built many of them be careful on swapping parts on a suspect bad board without confirming the original problem because you very well could have damaged the microprocessor of the good board Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dknahoolewa Posted October 3, 2011 Author Share Posted October 3, 2011 this is my first one so i have none to test in a working one.i'm not getting any resistance from D3 but get some on D2 and D1.could this be my problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
displaysinmotion_will Posted October 3, 2011 Share Posted October 3, 2011 D1,2,3 are diodes so they only allow current to flow in one direction,are all of the silver stripes on the diodes facing the same direction? your multi meter should not be showing any resistance because they are not resistors Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dknahoolewa Posted October 3, 2011 Author Share Posted October 3, 2011 what i mean is when i put the ohm meter on D1 & D2 the number continues to climb but D3 never registers anything. all my 220 resistors read .21.i think i might be stuck sending it in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
displaysinmotion_will Posted October 3, 2011 Share Posted October 3, 2011 resistors are measured in ohms, diodes are notso when you say that the one diode measures nothing then that is what it should bewhen checking a diode on an ohms meter its like taking the probes on the ohms meter and touching them together it should read infinite or OL (out of range) Attached files Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dknahoolewa Posted October 3, 2011 Author Share Posted October 3, 2011 thats sounds great. i trust what your saying. all the resistors and traics all read correctly. i'm not sure what else to look for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
displaysinmotion_will Posted October 3, 2011 Share Posted October 3, 2011 like i suggested to david send it to LOR repairs and they will take care of it for you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted October 3, 2011 Share Posted October 3, 2011 Max-Paul wrote: I would imagine if you powered up the board and the processor was in backwards, you might have fried it also. As for the adapter. First, the software or driver is on a CD that came with the adapter, not the controller. The only place that I know of that you can see the adapter is on the control panel in the system hardware. I suggest you go there before messing with a controller. Once the software is installed and the adapter is plugged into a USB port. Go looking for it on the hardware page of the control panel. You want to know what serial port it has been assigned to. Now from this point on, always plug into that USB port. If you plug into a different USB port. Your adapter might be assigned to a different serial port. So lets say you start off with port 5. Change USB port and now you might be serial port 6. this makes things difficult when trying to use the hardware utility. I found this out the hard way myself.That's very odd. I hav moved my USB485B adapter to different USB ports and never had issues with this. I set the comm port in the HWU and it never changes by changing USB ports on my USB485B unit. But if you DO NOT set a COMM PORT in the Hardware Utility program, the software can't find the unit, that much I do know. And I have never used the "find comm port automatically" anywhere near reliable, I have always had to manually set the comm port to one that was listed in the drop down box in the HWU. And I move my USB485B around to several different computers, each system using a different comm port, but the sequences all work just fine on each.So I find it strange that when or if you move your USB485 to another USB port it can't find it or loses it. I have never in the last 2 years of moving mine around ever had any issues like that one you describe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted October 3, 2011 Share Posted October 3, 2011 displaysinmotion_will wrote: im also looking at the picture of the back of your board but i cant see it very clearly did you trim the leads from the triacs? because if you didnt more than likely they grounded out to the heatsinks, did you ever check the fuses to see if they were blown?I just took a closer look at his board and I do believe you are correct. The Triacs all appear to NOT have had their leads cut flush with the solder. Looks to me like they could very well be long enough to be "shorting" out to ground on the heatsinks when the board is installed in the enclosure. So he may have some "fried" triacs there as well.I believe if it were me and I was having this much issue, I'd send the board back to LOR as is and let them see what's going on with it. He may need a complete new board. Shorting components to ground has a real funny way of blowing other components all over the board too, capacitors, transistors, even the LED could be affected. Also he says the LED shows no power, is he sure he has it soldered in with the correct polarity? If soldered in backwards, there could be power, but the LED won't come on either, it may/may not blow the LED, but it will damage it to some extent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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