Weatherproof Status LED's

[jimswinder]

I am to the point of mounting my controllers inside my enclosures, but since I am putting 4 controllers per enclosure, I was wanting to put the Red Status LED's on the outside of the enclosures so I can see them without having to open the enclosures up.

Anyone know where I can get some?
And for that matter, what voltage the Red Status LED's are (12v, 120v)?

Preferably, I would like to solder a "female" type plug where the Red Status LED is now on the controller board, so if the need arises I can just unplug the Status light and replace the board if it, for some reason, goes bad.

[Frank A.]

Good morning

I don't have any help for you as far as moving the leds

onto the enclosure

But I have an alternate idea

use lexan to create a window or four windows on the enlosure

that will allow you to see the existing leds

i used lexan for a dmx fixture window and the lexan proved to be

very easy to cut and drill mounting holes thru

Sorry for not answering your post but this is what popped into my head

Got the lexan at loews for a couple bucks

Frank A.


Attached files

[Max-Paul]

Ahmm, LEDs are not 12 or 120V natively. Red is usually only about 2 or 2.2 vdc. And if you were to examin the board closely you will see that there is a resistor in series with the LED. I have not done this, but imagine that a 5vdc logic level signal is driving it. So the resistor is more than likely about 470 ohms. The cheapest way I think would be to either desolder the LED or if you have not installed it yet, dont. Get a panel benzel and install the LED in this then run wires back to the board from the mounted LED. Of course the benzel needs to be water proof as you mentioned.

[jimswinder]

Max-Paul wrote:

Ahmm, LEDs are not 12 or 120V natively. Red is usually only about 2 or 2.2 vdc.

**as you can see I know little to nothing about electronics!!** lol

The cheapest way I think would be to either desolder the LED or if you have not installed it yet, dont.

**I had not put the LED in yet, thinking I would have to put something else there.**

Get a panel benzel and install the LED in this then run wires back to the board from the mounted LED. Of course the benzel needs to be water proof as you mentioned.

**Don't know what a benzel is...but I am sure Mr. Google does...thanks!!**

EDIT:

Well...I was wrong...Google did not have anything for a benzel...is that the correct spelling? Or did you mean bezel?

[jimswinder]

Frank A. wrote:

But I have an alternate idea use lexan to create a window or four windows on the enlosure that will allow you to see the existing leds

Thanks Frank...but that won't work in my case as I will be mounting two controllers on top of one another, so only the LED of the top controller would be able to be seen.

[Frank A.]

Check this link

http://lightorama.mywowbb.com/view_topic.php?id=16348&forum_id=84&highlight=led

Duke from Michigan has a stacked configuration with external

leds --- maybe a pm to him and he will share the info

Frank A.

[Frank A.]

This is actually the link I was looking for

dig deeper ---- no deeper still

anyway

http://lightorama.mywowbb.com/forum84/16378.html

Frank A.

[jimswinder]

Thanks Frank...

I knew I had seen them on here somewhere before...

[Max-Paul]

Jim, never trust my spelling, LOL. Yes the 2nd spelling that you offered up is more like it (bezel)

Here is something that could be used

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062556

I would smear a bit of RTV around the joint between the LED and the bezel. And a plastic washer between the case and lamp head.

But I just barely remember the thread that Duke did and it was a great idea of how to do it. Just use the LED that came with the kit.

[jimswinder]

Thanks Max-Paul...will check out Radio Shack tomorrow...

[rgardner518]

Here is how I did my remote status light.

Attached files

[Max-Paul]

ny_yankee_25 wrote:

Here is how I did my remote status light.

Well that sure does look nice. But now how did you really do it? Where did you get the lens? How does the LED mount to it? Did you add a resistor? Or did you simply desolder the one on the board?



More info would greatly be appreasated.

[Steven]

I would just drill a hole and use epoxy. That's probably what ny_yankee_25 did.

[rgardner518]

Steven wrote:

I would just drill a hole and use epoxy. That's probably what ny_yankee_25 did.

Here is the deal. I have been reading about the LED indicator light for a while now on LOR's forums. I really did not want to mess with the board. But I did enough research, to figure out, what I did, was the best, cost effective way to do this. Here is what I found.

First, I looked at the light pipe idea. The ONLY place I found to sell light pipes was Bivar. But they don't sell to the general public. I worked with a guy from there to get different sized Rigid pipes samples. But the one issue I found was that, It was like finding a needle in a haystack, when it came to trying to line it up on the lid. If it was to be perfect! And It had to be, in order to work right! Also the pipe HAS to touch the led. But the longest one did not reach the LED, from what I could see.

They sent me a catalog, which had Flexible Light Pipes in it. So I tried a sample of that. But again, they came with LEDs attached, and I would have to soldier anyways. I loved them and was going to buy them. Now, where to find them. EVERYONE who sells this Bivar product is out. They all claim to have a 100ct min. At $3 each, I was not going to spend $300 on flexible light pipes! So, with the help of the Bivar rep I was about to get them to order 25. But again, I was not going to spend $75, on that! So I found this led from radio shack. If I have to soldier, I just as well use this,

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062568

Plus there is no glue needed. It has a nut, you tighten. I still may add a little silicone to the backside, just to be safe. I forgot to mention, they are not as bright I you would think. They are bight enough, to see, but don't stand out like an eye sore, at night. Remember, its sharing the power, the other LED is getting too. But I used different points to soldier the wires too. I hope its OK? Here is another picture.

Attached files

[jimswinder]

ny_yankee_25 wrote:

I forgot to mention, they are not as bright I you would think.

But I used different points to soldier the wires too.

I had kits, so I soldered them directly where the LED's would have gone (black and white wires, but no LED put on yet).

I got my LED's and Holders from here:
http://www.oznium.com/


And my LED's are VERY bright.

5mm Holders )Chrome) were .54 cents
http://www.oznium.com/led-holder

5mm Red LED's were .57 cents
http://www.oznium.com/led

You can get them pre-wired also:
http://www.oznium.com/prewired-leds

But they only come with 6" of wire...and I wanted at least 12".


Attached files

[rgardner518]

I think everyone would agree, that they would NOT want a bright one. It would stick out like a sore thumb.

[jimswinder]

ny_yankee_25 wrote:

I think everyone would agree, that they would NOT want a bright one. It would stick out like a sore thumb.

Mine are pointed away from the street...so no big deal

[ItsMeBobO]

jimswinder wrote:

You can get them pre-wired also:
http://www.oznium.com/prewired-leds

But they only come with 6" of wire...and I wanted at least 12".

Careful! The page says this:
They are ready to go - "pre-wired" to work on any 12 volt system.

I think these status LEDS are intended to tell you power is getting to your 12v device. Not for connecting to a board with other voltages.

[jimswinder]

ItsMeBobO wrote:

I think these status LEDS are intended to tell you power is getting to your 12v device. Not for connecting to a board with other voltages.

Not that I know, but isn't the point where the Red LED's on the LOR board are hooked up only getting 12 volts?

[JBullard]

Jim,

If I understand the point on the board you are refering to, it should only be about a two volt logic voltage, not 12 volts.

(or did you leave out the original LED dropping resistor also?)