Agree TheDucks. If folks READ the manual, LOR has always stated best to set Controller ID's with ONLY ONE [1] CONTROLLER connected via cat5 and HU, otherwise it could either cause all units to change to the same ID, or might not take correctly.
All my controllers are set up with a way to disconnect the cat5 from OUTSIDE the unit, not having to open the controller lid to access inside to make changes.
Therefore, making it easier to disconnect that one controller from the chain and set it independantly of the rest via the HU.
Mainly easier for older CCB100D 5V, and the Pixie2D 12V controllers where you have to remove 8 screws, then take the lid off to access the DIP switches, if the controller uses them.
I don't recall if the original 5V CCB100D does or not, haven't had to open one of those in years now. I still use a couple of the CCB100D's in my show. Mostly 12V Pixies used now.
But, that's why using the HU works easier and best for me.
All depends on what the end user prefers to use.