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Everything posted by TheDucks

  1. Your sequence does that. LOR-Network, ID, node For Pixies you use the actual (even if it is inherited from the base) ID Port 2 is 11 (assumes the Bord was set to 10), port 16 is 1F. First node is 01,02,03 (the 3 colors), 04,05, 06 But when you create the Prop, you will state what the Network, port ID, start and end nodes are
  2. NO. The board (and lights) is designed to run from a set voltage. Dimming is done by PWM (amount of time the light is on) control. A Pixcon user will have to step up. ( I use Pixies. I can use the HU to set the overall Max intensity) or you can modify the sequence by dimming the over bright nodes..
  3. Per network (Red adapter), 2400 pretty active nodes is a number tossed about. Less active = more. I'm not sure what 'Regulated' means (could you post a link?). But regulators and light sequences are opposites. (you are dimming and pulsing)
  4. The HC ones use the blue to show power applied, but no data control detected. Smart nodes are always powered so the chip is ready to receive data. OTOH Power to a color (really applies return) make them light. 💡 Check the DIRECTION (which end gets power and data). Data can only come from the DI side (the chip on mine is on the DO side). This kind of hookup error is not common on strings SOLD with connectors built in. Power can be on both ends (a common way to power inject 5V strings from the SAME supply)
  5. My HC bullets default to blue on power up if the controller is not running (properly). Is the low port bank powered? Did you set the correct Chip type for your strings (in HU)? Is the strings data line on the correct terminal (not on the clock one)? Tight does not matter if you got the insulation under the screw :/ (I love my ferrels. No cat whiskers)) 1D , there is no need (with top level license) to snug up the ID. IMHO leave a gap for more DUMB (AC,DC) controllers and make you counting easy as Each port is an ID. 1D,1E,1F,20,21,22,23,24 or 20-27 which is easier to see a wrong ID on a single device.
  6. I also do Hex Boundary numbering. x0-xF (16 ID devices). In my case I found advantages to NOT use those, So I block out my Pixie assignments by 8's (0-7, 8-F) even when I use a Pixie4 initially. That leaves 4 ports if I need to swap in a Pixie8 without pain. (done 1 time SO FAR). 01-1F is for dumb devices. FWIW I chose to stick close to LOR retail sequence assignments... Just in case I buy some.
  7. I agree with JR in that folk make complications where they really aren't (and by ignoring the ones that matter). You are doing a step (I rank as #2). #1 is just read a whole lot of posts here an see what the choices get) I believe should be done: Ask BEFORE you go down a wrong path. Good workmanship and best (electronics) practices will save time, equipment and hair. Trying to cover too much area with one controller is a common issue. Only the AC series tolerate LONG leads, and then, you might end up spending the $ saved on long extension cords. KISS
  8. If you are planning on doing DIY controllers or props, you might consider a Ferrel Kit (under $30 at Amazon) You will use a LOT of the smaller sizes, but the larger ones are great for supplying power to the controllers (14-10Ga) Otherwise, learn to 'tin' the ends (many come pre tinned) LOR also sells spare mating (pixie) plugs that is handy if you want to do a fast swap for different seasonal props (that use different cords)
  9. +1 for Mr P's advice Connectors are great BUT you are getting in bed with a supplier, so take that with fore knowledge. A couple of vendors offer product with 'xyz Style' connections. (It took the Pandemic to ram home that even LOR is having supply issues: the 20' extension for the 10W floods, and the floods are not available for quite a while. ) My caution is to NOT use the same fit for different Voltages (or color order) just to keep the smoke 😲 in and the hair on your head. 😛 (experience 😭 ) Stay FAR away from those push in (circuit layer) Ribbon fittings. Solder to Ribbon is the only sure , reliable connection. (if you don't have a good temperature controlled Soldering tool. Go pre wired) I went with HC becaues they offered a wide range of lengths and accessories for their 'easy fit' series without the larger purchase qty or shipping expense form overseas. YMMV
  10. FWIW I had to use the Advanced color order section. That normally lets you set PER PORT. For some reason, the basic (all ports) was not taking.
  11. 💡 Use a 'Code' friendly editor like Notepad++ (free), it does colorizing of key words and indenting. You have a line number and offset BACKUP is important. quadruple that when you are not an expert 🙃
  12. IMHO Just don't try and do it with a Single controller. Long cables from the controller to the LEDS is not good. 💡 Many LOR controllers can be loaded with a sequence (via HU) and run stand alone (patio?) What is not made clear, is one controller (master) can control another on a LOR network (slave). Standalone systems can be run by simply applying power 👍
  13. Sorry for the unannounced exit. My Xfinity internet (my desktops are Wired) router went out for the 4th time that day 😠 (BUT My TV's still work. so it not the cable)
  14. If you leave it running, it will not get too cold. Still need to warm it up more? Run a BOINC task. (Not recommended for a Laptop as it will take (uses unused cycles) the CPU to 100% all the time. Kills smaller fans) FWIW I was running on a P4. It added 100W to the PC idle consumption (that is 2.4KWH per DAY. Your bill will go up. But you might not need additional heat in the room 😛)
  15. What Mr P said for the most part. Pixie 2 are perfect for isolated (in their own area) props. I see folk go the BIG route (pixie8-16) and try and cover a lot of area All smart/dumb RGB are low voltage, which means the current (amps) is a bit larger than you deal with for AC. Voltage drop (I*R losses) is thy enemy. Longer wires = voltage drop. Things you get away with (25' cord) with a string of 50, can cause issues with strings of 100. This is a case of Can Vs Should (best practice) You want shorter (to the Lights) cords. since the plan is 4 strings of 50 (maybe a real short jump between arches) with the Pixie in the middle of the 4 arches. A Pixie4 (12V strings) would work, with a longer cord (`10-15')feeding the outer pair. IMHO going to a Pixie8 or 16 and running even longer cables is not a great plan) OTOH If you have other props CLOSE, Go for the bigger Pixie. 💡 Remember to provide Weather protection to the PSU that comes with a Pixie2. (for all others, you build or buy your own case and PSU.
  16. I use 3 ports to do my gutter line (I went with 100px max) with the controller in the corner (my garage is sideways to the house). 1) 100nodes REVERSED, 2)32 nodes, 3)100 nodes 4)Front door all cables are under 20 ft (controller is at ground level) keeping them short,reducing voltage and signal issues (I have some gen 1 Pixies). Maxing out Ports, you WILL need to use care (and possibly, power injection) to avoid far end color issues. You can 'jumper' between strings(say the 2 windows to the left of the door). Just use a decent wire gauge and make lots of notes where each string section starts and ends (Node numbers) You define each 'prop' node and LOR ID (port on a Pixie 16. I like to KISS. A Pixie is assigned starting at a Natural HEX boundary: 30-3F. With PRO, you can leave ID gaps for future changes )
  17. Remember, with all Pixies you can reverse any single port, so things to the Left of the controller, may have Node 1 at the far end of the string. This helps Keep cables short. I'm in the more smaller Pixies camp for large areas. Jim has a great start. I also like having extra ports (unused for the current season 😀). 💡 I assigned My Pixie4 ID's as if they were Pixie 8s. Last year, one of them became an 8 (because I added a couple of props nearby) and all I had to do was add the next 4 ports to that location after a board swap. I also agree with Jim in avoiding tripping hazards from cords crossing traffic paths. Use Cord Protectors when unavoidable and never run AC cords in the same channel as the LOR net
  18. I was wondering if this was Just my system (Firefox) for quite some time. Thanks for proving it is not just me 😛
  19. JP4 should ONLY be installed on the Last Controller on the chain. The RS485 spec calls for the Ends (both) of the data chain to be terminated by 120ohms. The black and red adapters have that end covered. Having extra termination is BAD, which is probably why they leave the jumper in the bag (who reads the manual FIRST). LOR did not used to have terminator this as the slower (AC, dumb)controllers were not as fussy. If you have an older controller LAST, you can make the terminator by connecting a 120ohm (wattage not critical) between the Blue and the White-Blue wires of a old CAT5 cable (or a 1/4W size 120ohm will fit into a RJ45 plug)
  20. I can't see any of mine as they are mounted in their case (CG2500). I have 1 Gen2 and 2 Gen 1 That is the RS485 driver, so having common connections would seem normal (an it would not have passed tests if it was a solder bridge). Open a trouble ticket while things are slow
  21. If the same CAT cable worked with the other controller, then I suspect a bad IC2 chip or jack. HU will work with the old Black adapter. It is the show that needs speed.
  22. Going back to your original post: Daisy chain KILLS finding the other controller? Is its ID 01? You did not answer the Is it a GEN2 (screw power IN terminals). Have you tried a RESET (P35 of the users guide) procedure? Do you gave a string of pixels that you can connect? Try the self test, they should sequence if the board has other issues. Is the chip IC2 (near the RJ45 jacks) in its socket (and pointed the correct way. dot or notch to edge of board)
  23. CAUTION -12V is not the same as 12V - (aka return). This is not an issue when using the supplies sold with lights. they don't have a -12 output that is very common on Computer supplies (connections between +12 and -12 is 24V )
  24. Mr P might have it! LOR ships everything with ID 01. Gen 2 Pixies have switches, so you could just set them to a vacant ID Cluster (the Pixie needs 4 contiguous open ID's. As a Pro user, you have no limit on which ID. I use 2x , and 3x for my pixies) OR you can turn them all OFF and use HU while the pixie is the only thing connected. But first: Is the red led on the Pixie blinking slow or steady? (if it is not on or fast, you need to get that settled first)
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