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Everything posted by Orville

  1. I know it's hard NOT to use all channels on an AC Controller, but as others have said, you might need 1 or 2 in the event a channel fails. It does happen. Usually not so much if a controller is brand new, but it's happened. My 3rd year of doing this I had 2 Triacs fail in 2 different controllers, and I had used every channel on every controller I had at the time, so now I had 2 props that were dead and had to remove them from my display. As dead, non-working props in a display just doesn't look good. If I'd have kept at least 2 channels open and available on my controllers, I wouldn't have had to remove props, wiring and extension cords. Then I had to do some shifting of everything left in the yard because of the gaps those props left in the display. Believe me, you would be better off NOT using those 5 channels and keep them in reserve in case of a channel failure in the controller. I learned this the hard way my 3rd year. I now have downsized to only 2 AC Controllers in my display since going 95% RGB, and even those two controllers don't get fully utilized, I use around 12 channels on one and about 8-10 on the 2nd. I could add quite a few more things to them, but after having the experience with channel failures, I've learned it's better to have MORE channels than items plugged into all of them. Just swap out the channel to a working one, and change the sequence to reflect the channel change. Only takes a very short time to do that. Good Luck, whatever you choose to do is your decision. All we can do is offer our advice and why it's better to have spare channels as to not, usually because we've experienced it.
  2. No idea how much they'd cost to ship, but I've been cutting the ends off mine for several years now when a strand goes bad. I have 2 small ice-ream containers {large square} and I have 1 full of Male ends and the other full of female ends. I cut the male wires off as close and flush to the first bulb in the strand, female ends usually have longer wires than their male counterparts, as I also cut them off as close and flush just after the last bulb in the strand. How many do you need, Bob? Like stated, mine would already be cut from the strands, so no added expense of shipping for "dead weight", and I'm sure I can possibly spare as many you need for your experiment, just depends on exactly how many you need. I use them to make extension cords for giving added length to other AC powered incandescent items that may still be in my display.
  3. Posting this because when I first got mine I mixed up the unmarked controllers for Ralphie and Zuzu and went through a similar situation. Actually you can swap controllers, but if you do you have to go into the HU, click the COnfig on the bottom, then click the Cosmic Color/Pixie Config, then select the correct singing tree for the controller and click okay. It'll update that controller to the prop you selected, Felix, Ralphie, Zuzu or Elden. So the controllers can be interchanged, you just have to update them to work with a different tree if trying to test using one Pixie2 Controller. You can also change the unit ID's as well, I had to change mine down, takes too long in the HU to find controllers if you don't have that many, so I had set Ralphie to 06 and Zuzu to 08, since I only had 5 other RGB Controllers when I first got mine. Also remember when setting ID's, the Pixies use 2 ID #'s, that is why Zuzu is ID #08, Ralphie was 06 AND 07, Zuzu was 08 AND 09. So remember that if you ever need to change their ID numbers from their defaults. And how do I know the controllers can be changed? Because when I got Zuzu and Ralphie and unpacked them and their controllers to build the frames for them, I forgot to mark the controllers as to which one belonged to which. When I tested them in the HU at first, everything was wrong on both trees, each didn't have lights lighting up, a little checking into the config of each controller in the HU, then I found I had installed Ralphies Controller on Zuzu and Zuzu's on Ralphie. Went in to the config area in HU, changed the prop definitions {only connecting one controller at a time} for each one, again, only one controller at a time when doing this, so you don't confuse yourself by having 2 Ralphies show up with different or same ID number {in case you changed the ID}, as if both are the same ID and Configured with the same pop name, you'll only see one controller. Fortunately it's an easy fix, but at first when I mixed my 2 up, I thought at first I got a couple of bad trees and would have to send them back for replacement or repair. Thankfully, it was really quite an easy fix, as it would have been a pain to remove the controllers off the back frame where I had mounted them and secured cords and cat 5 for testing them out before placing them out in my display.
  4. This is mainly for the folks that live in Florida, "The Lightning Capital of the United States"! Last Wednesday, May 12, 2021 we had one of our horrendous thunder-lightning storms along with some hail. Well, that storm put a lightning strike right into 3 of my RGB Controllers, two suffered severe damage, one, unit #04 had an area that was scorched, and the components were literally melted into a blob on the PCB, totally destroyed them, not only on the front, but the back of the PCB was also scorched back and burned behind the area, along with the interior, backside of the green box. #05 also suffered the same fate, but worse, it had 2 areas that were scorched and 2-areas where the components were melted into a black, scorched blob mess, one of these at the light port output areas, the back of the PCB was also scorched in both places, and the interior of this controllers green box had also been scorched. #03 controlled my garden trellises I use off season as lighting in my garden area and is moved for use during my Christmas Show, however no visible damage can or could be seen, the port outputs were no longer lighting anything attached to them, controller powered up, but apparently internal damage along the lighting outputs were damaged, so the controller was fried as well. These 3 controllers are {or were} used in my off hours season for lighting the walkway on my handicap ramp, as well as in the garden area. I also lost 2 strands of 50 RGB C9 Light strands due to this strike, thankfully the lights on the trellises and the other 2 strands of 50 C9 RGB bulbs were not damaged, but the 3 CCB100D Controllers ended up being toast. From now on, when I know we have any of these lightning storms coming {hearing thunder in the distance}, I'm going outside and unplug all Cat5 cables and power cords from controllers, will also disconnect the lights from each port as well from now on. And don't let folks fool you into believing lightning doesn't strike twice in the same place, because this is the 2nd time in 3 years that we've had lightning hit close to or directly on our handicap ramp, the first time it took out some old standard mini incandescent strands and also burned a large swath up and around the ramp, that one was a weird hit, but happened almost in the same exact manner as the strike that took out the RGB lights and controllers this year {2021}. When the lightning strike hit, it shook our entire house like a mild earthquake, lights all went off in the neighborhood for a few seconds, but when power came back on, and the 2 strands had only a few bulbs lit, with one just slowly fading with RGBW, I knew the strand was going to be toasted. When I took hem down and tested them, they wouldn't light on a good controller, tried 3 different known working controllers that were packed away until Display Set Up time, and none would turn the bulbs on, so definitely fried. Just want folks that may be new to Florida to be very wary of our afternoon thunder-lightning storms, so if you live in Florida, and one of these severe type storms approaches, you may want to consider unplugging any/and all controllers that may be powered and in use, including all cat5 connections. I first unplug my controllers from electrical power, then unplug the cat5 cables. I now use 2 short 6-inch cat5 cables that goes into female to female cat5 pass through blocks, these are outside the RGB Controller box for quick disconnect of my cat5 cables now, this way I don't have to "open" a controller box to unplug the cat5 cabling. I am only posting this to let others know what can happen here in "sunny Florida" when the weather goes into our lightning storm season {late Spring and Summer usually}. Keep your controllers and lights protected! And, yes, we actually have a whole home lightning protection system in place, but it didn't stop this one from doing some serious damage to my CCB100D controllers!
  5. [Potentially incorrect information removed by admins.]
  6. You might want to try this: Edit > Preference > Display Preferences > Advanced OpenGL Settings and then select a different option than the default. You may have to try different ones until you find one that works for you. Each time you "change this setting" you will need to close the SE and then reload for any changes to take effect. I had an issue with the special lighting commands not showing up as they should, they were all solid, like on commands, I had to use "Pixel Format #33" to make them appear correctly, otherwise I couldn't tell a shimmer from a twinkle. This could be something similar with your scroll bars no longer showing up in the SE. I don't know if this will solve your issue or not, as I'm not using a MAC, but it may be worth checking out. Please let us know if you try this and if it worked. Good luck getting those scroll bars back.
  7. A day late, but agree. And if there are any "Pagan folk" on here, Happy Ostara to you.
  8. I remember when Citrus County's name represented exactly that, in Clermont you could visit the Citrus Tower, go up to the top floor and see millions of Citrus Trees as far as the eye could see in every direction. Then Florida got hit with a major freeze that wiped out the Citrus crop, along with some form of disease that came a very short time later, causing many Citrus Trees to be destroyed. After that, the Citrus farmers all gave up, and started selling off their land. Once the beautiful, spectacular Citrus-scape started disappearing, the Citrus Tower started losing business. Last I heard it was still there, renamed and now nothing but a bunch of offices, and I think there may still be a small museum in there that highlighted those days. Now all those Citrus Groves are home sites or apartment complexes. And I don't know if they've done it yet, but those two lakes that you cross over on E. Hwy50 were also slated to be filled in, and offices, stores and apartments/condo's to be built where the lakes were, just before, or just after you entered Clermont, which was in Citrus County, not sure if that's still true or not today. Haven't been that way now in well over 25+ years. I know what you mean about home prices, even for a burned out shell on a property here in Orlando they are asking anywhere from $80,000-$130,000 up for it. And usually the property isn't much more than 1/4 to maybe a 1/2 acre, just because it has a "structure" on it. A structure that in all probability, would have to be demolished, and rebuilt from the ground up. Totally ridiculous pricing for something I wouldn't give more than perhaps $5,000-$10,000 at most. Seeing I have to get permits, pay for demolition, then pay for the new home I build on it. Way overpriced IMO. Ain't progress great?🤔😬
  9. Come on down to Florida Bob. You'll see a lot of those lawsuits between where someone had an accident because the streetlights were improperly placed {too far apart to overlap} or had burned out between those that do, leaving a pitch black void. But the darnedest thing is, the streetlights are owned by Duke Energy, but are on PRIVATE PROPERTY and, I'm sure we all absorb the cost of them operating in the LOT RENT FEES we pay here. And they are spaced so far apart there are PITCH BLACK VOIDS between almost every one of them. We have no sidewalks in our neighborhood, so you have to walk in the street. So I always make sure I have a very bright flashlight with me and a blinking light attached to my belt on my backside. We have a lot of idiotic morons in our neighborhood that drive around here after dark with their lights off, so it's very dangerous to walk around my neighborhood after dark without some type of lighting on you! It's no wonder they call Florida Flor-ee-DUH!
  10. +1 on what Kapkirk just told you. I'd highly recommend you just leave it alone. Otherwise, like stated above, you could be in for a big lawsuit if something were to happen. I asked about the streetlight right next to my driveway that lights up the entire front of my house, and half-way down that side of the house, and was told if I disable it, and someone trips, and gets injured then I'm 100% wide open for a lawsuit. Also, if any type of accident would occur that would possibly end in someone's death because the streetlight was out by my turning it off, I could be up on manslaughter charges. Sure don't want that. If it happens to burn out, notify the power company, or utility that takes care of it immediately! This is so they have a report it's out, and know to send out a repair crew to get it fixed. As soon as mine goes out, as much as I would prefer it dark during the holiday light display, I call Duke Energy who takes care of the streetlights in my neighborhood to get it fixed. So like stated above and in my comment on this subject, just leave it alone. It's not worth the added risk, if you try and disable it!
  11. Well our Governor has pretty much opened Florida to ANYONE from ANYWHERE, plenty of real estate here, but some of the newer homes, the yards really suck because they are extremely small and limited. Should be a law against building houses so close together you can barely walk between them. Give me the old days when houses had massive yards, and you could drive at a minimum 2 full size fire trucks between them side by side! I remember when developers started building houses this way and the Fire Department was and kept telling them it was a bad idea, having homes so close together like that, if one caught fire the whole neighborhood may go up in flames. They {FD} fought long and hard to stop this practice, sadly, it seems, the greedy developers {land, nature, forests, wetlands, lakes, streams, rivers and swamps getting destroyed} always win these fights. Doesn't matter what we vote for or don't want, they always get precedence. I was born and raised and that title Orlando was given years ago {The City Beautiful} definitely no longer fits it, more like "The City Repulsive" or "The City Ugly" and the majority of us blame the Big Rat that moved in here, Walt Dismal World and The Tragic Kingdom for starting the destruction of our former "laid-back Southern lifestyle". Before Disney we never had the crime, road-rage incidents and shootings we have now, no matter what anyone says, Disney has been the downfall and the growth that has destroyed the Southern Charm and Friendliness that once was Florida within the area of Orlando that I live. However, there are still some areas that still have some of the quaint charm and serenity that used to be here, you just have to seek it out. If I could afford to move and stay within Florida to one of those areas, I'd do so in a heartbeat. But you're welcome to move on down here to the South, in Florida, if you can stand all the tourist traps that have sprung up almost everywhere.
  12. Wish I lived in Iowa. That's a really great deal for someone that may just be starting out in this hobby! If I still had a chunk of the funds from my Stimulus, I'd have snapped this up and, yep, even paid for the shipping to Orlando, Florida. Would have been well worth it! Unfortunately I had to replace a lot of tools and buy new items for the house {wife's orders}...and we all know how that goes, right guys? For those of us that are married. So she got a good chunk of the package deal this go around. Unfortunately, that left me with no funding for the other two LOR Singing Trees {Eldon and Felix}, the SuperStar Software and a 2nd N4-G4 Director I was hoping to get. But got to keep the wifey happy too.
  13. Since you're being fairly new to this I think a little further in-depth explanation is needed to try and make this a little clearer for you. YES you WILL need 2 different networks if your AC Controllers are Gen 1 or Gen 2 {Pre-Gen 3}, as none of the older 16 Channel AC Controllers Original through Gen 2 {although from what I've read, depending on when you bought them, some GEN 2 Controllers are actually Gen 3, and I think the only way to know is by the internal LED on the board or from the firmware installed {viewed in the LOR Hardware Utility}, GEN 1 or 2, RED LED, Gen 3 or later usually a GREEN LED {Except on the Directors, they are still RED, wonder why they didn't get a GREEN LED?} Any Gen 1 or Gen 2 AC Controllers WILL require a Regular, NON-Enhanced maximum 115K speed network separate from your RGB Controllers, which usually require an Enhanced and 500K speed network. I have older Gen 2 16 Channel Controllers, and they have to have their own network, must be Regular, NON-Enhanced and a maximum speed of 115K. I use an N4-G4 Director and use all 4 Networks on it. So your current set-up should be just fine. If your Controllers are G3 or newer, then all could be placed on the red adapter, as GEN 3 AC 16 Channel Controllers can operate on an Enhanced, High Speed {500K maximum for them} Network. Older units, again Gen 1 or Gen 2 can be used with a red HS adapter, but then you're limited to one speed, a maximum of 115K, also, Enhanced could not be used with Gen 1 or Gen 2 units, nor do they get along very well with their newer G3 or newer counterparts, so again, on this you'd need 2 networks. So currently, depending on your AC Controller family, your settings will work just fine.
  14. What I stated in a prior post still holds true. And I believe the OP says he was playing the sequence and the Visualizer still stayed a blank{black} window. If he has Visualizer checked and Play Lights checked, and the Visualizer is still a blank screen in Simulation mode when a sequence is running, he'll need to check over just what I stated above. I know for a fact, it will not work if any of the steps I outlined are not mated EXACTLY as stated. If everything matched up in the SE and Network Config program, then there is another issue causing the problem. Just know what I said above, is exactly what I had to do to get the Visualizer to work when I moved my stuff over to a new computer.
  15. If you are using S4{and it looks like it from your screen capture. I had that very same issue. You have to be sure ALL network configurations are set correctly that match your sequence settings, if there are differences between the two, the Visualizer WILL Load and show you the visual, but when it comes to "Simulation Mode", nothing will happen and you'll get just what you described a blank screen. And any Networks set MUST also exist on the system, if you have a Regular Network, AUX A Network and an Aux B Network, each must have their own Com Port, Example Reg: Com 3, Aux A: Com 4 and Aux B: Com 5 and each Com port MUST have a physical dongle, if not, Visualizer will not work. Has to be actual existing Com ports on your system along with a dongle that coincides with them. I found this out when my Visualizer wouldn't work in S4 either, corrected the errors and visualizer started working just fine. You also must have the LOR Control Panel loaded and running, and in the SE Control Lights must also be checked, again, if not, Visualizer will just show a blank screen in Simulation Mode. NOTE: If you are using non-existent Com Ports, the Com Listener will error out and be in a perpetual loop until you remove any non-existent Com Port from your Network Config. Then unload Light-O-Rama, and restart everything once corrected. Learned that one at the same time I was having this very issue you're describing with the Visualizer. Good Luck and hope this may have been of some help.
  16. For sealing any electrical ends/terminations of any exposed wire, Clear Flex Seal and the Clear Flex Seal tape may be a better alternative to your other ties that are failing. Both are weatherproof and waterproof. I use black liquid flex seal on my wire terminations/exposed end of wire. best stuff I've found, cures within 24-48 hours to a nice rubber, water-tight seal. Haven't had a chance to get or use the Flex Tape, it's a bit costly {IMO} for the amount you get. But if it works as well as the liquid Flex Seal, for smaller areas or use, might be worth it.
  17. Doesn't it get really hot in Texas in the summer, like it does in Florida? When I was using hot glue, many times it melted in the heat from the sun. Sure made a sticky ooey gooey mess that made any repair fairly impossible! That's when I started using the Flex Seal Family of products. Yes, some of them are a little messy, and you need to cover things with painters tape. However, I haven't had further issues with modifications getting ruined in such a way I can't replace just the LED assembly and re-solder wires. I, have to scrap the item and rebuild it over again, tossing everything because the hot glue was melting all over everything. With flex seal liquid, I just slice the rubber, remove, peel the rubber out and re-coat the bottom of the light assembly {PC Board} after the wires are attached and in place. Coat the top wire connections at the solder pad joints as well. Gives a great weatherproof and waterproof seal. So my days of using a hot glue gun and glue sticks are over and done with.
  18. You know how it is JR. That was my last post on this aspect anyway. At least you and I are on the same page.
  19. I've never experienced this issue from the old Original LOR MP3 Director to the newest N4-G4 Director until the Spring Foward time change and redoing the times ny animation ramp lights would be on.. In the Fall it ran my 6 hour sequence just fine from 7PM-1AM. But when I changed to my 4 hour sequnece and run it from 8pm-12AM is when this BUG in the Hub bit me. So I had toi go back to using he Hardware Utility to be able to set the correc time, created the same exact show with the same time options I used in the Hub and the 4 hour sequence runs just fine from 8PM-12AM. The Hub always defaulted to 12PM every time. I probably would have never caught this error if t wasn't for the fact I know the N4-G4 Director should have been showing "wait" for the show to start, but, instead, after several attempts using the Hub, every time if showed 1-01 on the display, showing me something was amiss, as show 01 should never have been running at 8AM in the morning. Even though no lights ere lie {which I also found odd, since they should have been on, or so I'd think. I havent heard from DevMike on this bug yet either. I sent him a direct PM the same day I posted this here, telling him about this thread and the issue. But he hasn't weighed in on this yet. Not sure if he's seen the PM or ?. I may have to open a help desk ticket before this gets checked into. But it should and needs to be corrected. Even if some folks have issues with knowing which 12 o'clock is AM or PM. But what really surprises me is how many folks get these two wrong{reversed}. LOL But for now that's what I'll do when it comes to my actual shows, but even so, I'll still have to use the HU over the Hub until this gets fixed, because on some nights {2} when my Holiday show is exteneded, the overnight light show needs to start at Midnight 12AM on those nights, not 12PM Noon!
  20. First off, like I stated in my explaination, many still do share a part or the full sequence, so I({we} have not defeated the purpose of the Sequence Sharing forum. But to get that sequence, the requester now has to take some additional steps to qualify to receive it. However, I do agree that ANY sequence one may receive or buy IS a starting point, becauser just as you stated, every display is different and so my sequence isn't going to match someone elses. Even if we are using some of the same items, like RGB lights along a roof-line, my set up in how they react may look good for my setting, but may look completely out of order on someone elses roof-line, strands aren't set in the same manner, longer or shorter runs of the strands along the roof-line or even in the yard, mine might look terrible on someone elses yard, but they work just fine in mine. So on that I can agree. However, with purchased sequences, you aren't allowed to share any part of those, so even if you copied and modified a purchased sequence and it was used in YOUR sequence, that is still not allowed! And most bought sequneces are encoded with some type of code, so the company will know exactly who bought and shared it by this hidden number. Not sure, since I've never bought or used a purchased sequence, but I think the lighting commands in those sequences may also include this same type coding setup, so the company may still know if you used any of their original commands copied to another. And that's why, even if you use a purchased sequence you SHOULD NEVER SHARE IT, otherwise you might find yourself on the end of a legal battle with the company that sold it. So even if I purchased a sequence and copied some of their lighting commands into mine, I'd need to strip those particular lighting commands from that sequence before I could legally share it. Just have to be mindful of what you're sharing, as long as it was 100% created by you from the ground up, if you wish to share it, by all means do so. But heed what I stated in my post above about the bad apples!
  21. And if you didn't quite follow what JR means, the issue is many of us used to share our sequences with others, but some of these "others" stole the sequences and sold them on places like E-Bay and other sequence selling sites, claiming it was their work, others received the sequence and then turned around and shared it with unauthorized users, that is they shared it with others WITHOUT getting the author of the original sequence{s} permission to share it/them. This is why it's getting a bit more difficult to find folks that are willing to share sequences freely now, and if they do, it may only be a specific part/component of one. And then you have to type in a waiver that you won't sell, or share any part or all of the sequence to anyone, and this also includes any modifications you may make to the original without getting their permission to share it with others. You could only share the PART you made, but not any modified part the original sequencer had done and you changed/modified. Like JR said, because of the bad ones, sadly it has come to this. As these folks need to protect their work, and if one is not willing to type in such a waiver and sign it {just requires typing your name after it}, then they won't send the sequence out until you take that step. You'll have to look in the Sequence Sharing area of the forum for the particulars of what each sequencer requires for the statement needed to get a sequence sent from them. Again, it's sad it had to go this way, but as the old saying goes, only takes one bad apple to ruin the entire barrel. Unfortunately there are a lot of bad apples that made sequence shares almost a thing of the past now. Good luck on finding the sequence you're looking for.
  22. Completely agree with that JR. I played the Ray Stevens song for a few of my neighbors, both adults and children, they loved it, the only one that didn't isn't a big fan of cats{but tolerates them}, but they admitted it was quite humorous despite it was cat themed. I try to play music that hopefully everyone will like, and if it isn't liked by a few, it'll still get in, but I try to include songs for my nearest neighbors with their input into what gets selected. I try to have something for everyone that lives around, and near my display. Even if I dislike a song they want, as long as it's family/child friendly I'll do my best to add it in. But like they say, you can't always please everyone, but I can try.
  23. My new song for 2021 is Ray Stevens - "Claws (A Cat's Letter To Santa)" by Ray Stevens. It's a song about a cat that got declawed amd wnts them back for Christmas, so the cat wrote a letter to Santa Claus. It's a cute and funny song. And that's one of my favorites for the 2021 Christmas Show. Now if only I had some Cat Sining Faces to go with it, but I'll have to see how it workls out with ZuZu and Ralphie, my 2 LOR Singing Trees singing it! LOL It posted on YouTube on December 8, 2020, although I didn't find it until January 15, 2021. But I love it. You can hear it on YouTube here: Ray Stevens - "Claws (A Cat's Letter To Santa)" I love Christmas Parody and Comedy songs, and so far this is my #1 favorite for 2021 and my Christmas Display. I also agree with, no to: "What does the fox say", "What does the reindeer say", "baby shark" or "Frozen" And I also agree with non family/child friendly songs. Although some words I can deal with, especially if you hear it in church and find it in the Bible, but the other really vulgar ones, if I can I edit them out, and splice the song without them to make them family and child friendly, I do. But sadly sometimes the artist takes those words to extreme excessiveness and that song goes in a special sub-folder labeled: "NEVER USE THESE SONGS". Why? Because they just can't be toned down to a family/child friendly version{cleaned up} because there is just by far, too much vulgarity in it. Too bad that happens at times, because many times the music within it is awesome, but ruined with all the swear words in it. But if I can find an instrumental version of the song, I may use that, depending on how it sounds.
  24. Totally agree Jim! I use 24 Hour Military time as many call it, and it is practically foolproof. No errors in time when 12PM 1200 is Noon and 00:00 is Midnight! Every job I ever had *ALWAYS* used the 24 hour time format. And why do they use it? Because you're much less likely to cause errors in figuring out hours worked and paychecks. I'd prefer the MP3 Directors utilized the 24 hour clock, or at least give the end user an option. Most digital watches today give you a choice, 12 hour or 24 hour format. Too me the 24 hour clock is a no-brainer, and once you use it, and get accustomed to it, you never go back to a 12 hour clock, at least I never have! Even the Window Clock doesn't give a 24 hour option, which I find a bit ridiculous! When are computers and some of our electronic items that use a real time clock going to start offering one? Should be by end user option to use a 24 hour clock, if that's what the end user would prefer. I'd have figured by now, this would have been a no-brainer and already been worked in, but apparently it's more like a no brains thinking of NOT giving us this option. Sorry if anyone finds that last statement offensive, but really, all this stuff should have a 24 hour clock option incorporated by now!
  25. Well when the time changed I reset my show times for my overnight animation file to illuminate m,y 66' handicap ramp. Before it ended at 1AM, but with the time change moving ahead 1 hour this was to be set at 12:00AM {Midnight}, well I edited my Show using the Hub's edit feature, which worked fine durung the Fall {Standard} time as I had nothing ending or starting at Midnight {12:00AM} or in-between, so no issue ever was found, but when I tried to Edit my show to change the sequence to a shorter version and end it at 12:00AM {Midnight}, it changed the AM settings to PM. I caught this error when I inserted the Spring Overnight Ramp Light Show SD Card into my MP3 Director, and insead of showing me "Wait" on the display as it did before the move forward time change, it now was showing that show 1-01 was running, when it should have only been showing wait on the N4-G4 Director display. So I removed the card and tried another edit and saw the time was NOT at what I had selected for this show to end 12:00AM {Midnight}, it had defaulted to 12PM {Noon}, as after I wrote the show to the SD card, it defaulted to PM, instead of AM. This ONLY HAPPENS when using or starting a show time between 12:00AM to 12:59AM, these times default to PM every time. I even tried reformatting the SD Card, writing a test show using the same file again as a BRAND NEW SHOW, NOT an edit, the Hub once again, wrote the time as 12:00PM for end of show. So I tried my "turn off ALL lights" sequence that runs from 12:00AM-12:01AM, it too, once wrote to the SD Card, either by an edit or BRAND NEW show defaulted again to 12:00PM-12:01PM. This needs to be corrected, as this could cause folks some issues that may use these times {12:00AM Midnight to 12:59AM} to end or start a show. Don't know why this wasn't caught before releasing this version {4.4.16} of the Hub. Currently the ONLY way I can write the shows to the correct time needed for the ramp lights to turn off at midnight {12AM} and the Ramp Lights to run the 1 minute sequence to be sure all lights are turned off at 12:00AM {Midnight} to 12:01AM is to use the Hardware Utility, it is the only other program to write the CORRECT times to an SD Card for an MP3 Director using those time frames. Since I'm not using a computer to run any shows, I have no idea if this issue exists in the other options in the Hub to write a show to a Hard Drive for computer run shows. Folks need to know there is an inerrent bug in the time code area of the Hub for MP3 Directors, since it definitely does not know, or see, any difference between 12PM and 12AM and codes any time between 12:00AM {Midnight} to 12:59AM as 12:00PM {Noon} to 12:59PM.
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