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Agree TheDucks. If folks READ the manual, LOR has always stated best to set Controller ID's with ONLY ONE [1] CONTROLLER connected via cat5 and HU, otherwise it could either cause all units to change to the same ID, or might not take correctly. All my controllers are set up with a way to disconnect the cat5 from OUTSIDE the unit, not having to open the controller lid to access inside to make changes. Therefore, making it easier to disconnect that one controller from the chain and set it independantly of the rest via the HU. Mainly easier for older CCB100D 5V, and the Pixie2D 12V controllers where you have to remove 8 screws, then take the lid off to access the DIP switches, if the controller uses them. I don't recall if the original 5V CCB100D does or not, haven't had to open one of those in years now. I still use a couple of the CCB100D's in my show. Mostly 12V Pixies used now. But, that's why using the HU works easier and best for me. All depends on what the end user prefers to use.

Looking for advice from this wonderful community... I'm starting to work on my holiday display early as I have some new props and sequences to add, but I also have a number of existing strings (AC and RGB) that run into my plants and trees. The one problem with these plants is that they are not so static (they grow, get pruned, and even get moved/removed). During last year's show, it bothered me a bit that two of the big trees (Palo Verde and Mesquite for those interested) had changed enough that many of the effects just didn't look right. So I want to update the props for those trees (in a couple of instances, I expect to increase the string length), and was interested in how others handle this issue. Do you create new ones and try to replace the existing? Do you tweak the existing (could be interesting as there are at least 32 strings of 50 pixels, and few pixels would be untouched)? Other methods? Maybe some just live with it? All suggestions are welcome (since I cannot be the only one with this problem).

Nice thing is > if you have a LOR Preview - you can export the Prop from it....

I agree with modifying your preview for the new year AND SAVING THAT WITH A NEW NAME. Then assign your sequences to use the new preview. So I have a Christmas 2020, and Christmas 2021, and Christmas 2022, etc. Some years I may even have more than one. If for example I start 2024 sequencing in February and use a Christmas 2024 preview based on anticipated changes for 2024. Come summer when I am actually changing props and end up building a bit different than what I anticipated six months earlier, I will create a Christmas 2024-2 preview. Just to make sure I stay on the same page, I have a spreadsheet each year of things to do for each sequence. For example, a column might be "sequence candy canes" - referring to a new or modified prop that I need to sequence. One of the columns is which preview is assigned for that sequence. So right now, most of my sequences are still assigned to the preview Christmas 2023-3 because I have not touched them yet (I'm behind this year). Once I start editing the 2023 sequences to become 2024 sequences, they will get assigned to the 2024 preview. Note for clarity. I said "modifying your preview and save with a new name" and also "create a Christmas 2024-2 preview". Neither of those is the actual steps required to making the new preview. I wanted to clarify the actual steps. In the Sequencer, on the Preview pop-out, select your source preview (maybe Christmas 2023), and use the icon to copy that to a new preview. Give the copy, the new name (for example, Christmas 2024). Then edit the new preview to reflect the changed to props.

The controller board is the same they use for the RGB 50w floods so ch1-Red or UV, ch2-Green, ch3-blue, ch4-strobe on time, ch4-strobe off time. The lightening would be easier and look more natural if you just program in some lightening flashes. Strobes just don't look like natural lightening. Programmed lightening on my floods:

I have had intermittant issues with HU making updates when the controller is not the only one on the cable. This was NOT a address clash . It seemed I had the more with Pixies than the CTB16

Once again, thank you all. I was having problems letting HU set the options and the Matrix would not work. I went back and set the unit id dip switches and now it all works perfectly.

Neither one is really easier then the other. On the other hand, the HU settings sometimes will not take and can be a pain in the arse at times.

It has a LOR controller built in so it can operate on a LOR RS 485 network or, by changing a jumper, as a DMX fixture.

All switches OFF, you CAN use the HU so set the ID if you don't want to use the switches. (FWIW, the chart that Jimhc shows is near the back of the users guide. It is unusual that LOR shipped all Off. The default is ID 01 )