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tboerjan

Anyone else trying out the new Firefly units?

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Duke wrote:

Paul,

If you were to use 1/2" X 24" rebar as a stake with 8 to 12 inches sticking out of the ground and place the end of your arches over it, the arches would be self supporting and would not require the guy wires you have. Did you use white PVC and paint it black? Nice work even if the ties aren't trimmed. I'm geeked and can't wait to get mine. Thanks for the pics.

Yeah, I did not figure I could get the uniform enough using rebar stakes. Most of my front yard has about 3 to 6" of dirt the rock you can't drive rebar thru. If my son trips over the guy wire while running around I may try and use rebar.

I have a piece of wire attached to each side holding the bend uniformed.

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Paul Roberson wrote:


Yeah, I did not figure I could get the uniform enough using rebar stakes. Most of my front yard has about 3 to 6" of dirt the rock you can't drive rebar thru. If my son trips over the guy wire while running around I may try and use rebar.

I have a piece of wire attached to each side holding the bend uniformed.


ROCK? Yikes! Maybe the wife can get you a Jack Hammer for Christmas? LOL.

Just joking. My brother lives in Colorado and has the same problem when wanting to dig deeper than the soil. Dynomite works too!

Thanks again Paul.

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Will LOR have a similar product in the future? If not, will the firefly LED's work with LOR II? Do I need any new adapters or will LOR II recognize the Firefly?

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lonewolvie wrote:

Will LOR have a similar product in the future? If not, will the firefly LED's work with LOR II? Do I need any new adapters or will LOR II recognize the Firefly?


FF will work with LOR II. You need D-lights USB to 485 adapter for FF firmware upgrades only. You can do everything else with LOR's USB 485 adapters.

LOR II will not actually "recognize" FF. When you do a unit ID refresh LOR II will not find FF. It will run it though.

Use D-Lights hardware utility to set FF unit ID to whatever you need to. The FF unit will take that unit ID and the next two. FF comes shipped with unit ID of 02,03,04

You could set up FF in LOR II by adding 3 controllers. Say 0A, 0B, 0C. 0A will be 16 pixels of red, 0B will be green, and 0C will be blue. Do this and program away. When you get FF just use D-Lights FF utility to set the controller ID to 0A and you should be good to go.

I did still have some stuck lights after the firmware upgrade using .01 chases. When I say some...maybe 1 or 2 thru a whole routine. I replaced the 'ON' command with a 95 to 100 'fade up', and there were no more stuck lights. Your eyes can't see the difference between the two.

Sorry if this is more info than you were looking for:)

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I do not no of a similar LOR product, yet. I do hope they make it easier to program via S2. One has to download and use the D-Light Hardware program to change the units ids from 2,3, and 4 to what you need them set to. Then they won't appear as LOR controllers, but you can still treat them as such. Remembering that they are Red, Green and Blue and you can send different intensies (0-100%) to create any color. For example, 25,25,25% would give one white at a lower intensy as opposed to all three being set to 100%. Purple would be red and blue, etc.

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Thanks that explains more than I could get from D-light's website, I think that I may order these.

The way I have mine set up now, Firefly's unit ID numbers would work where they're set at(02 03 04).

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Would anybody be willing to share some sections from their firefly sequences with color changes, etc? I've got just two of these ordered to make a couple arches and would like to start adding them into my routines but where to even begin? :)

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Paul, I noticed you put the pixels up on your arches does it look good running that way? It looks like the wire would follow the curviture of the pipe much better that way but is it brighter if the pixels face towards the street? Just was wondering I think I will build mine like Paul's but was wondering if there is any difference. Thanks.

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dfr2923 wrote:

Paul, I noticed you put the pixels up on your arches does it look good running that way? It looks like the wire would follow the curvature of the pipe much better that way but is it brighter if the pixels face towards the street? Just was wondering I think I will build mine like Paul's but was wondering if there is any difference. Thanks.


I don't think they are any brighter looking straight at them than they are from the side. With the white cap on them it defuses the light and it fills the cap. Did that make any sense? If you were to take the white screw on caps off then you would have to face them towards the street.

My mounting preference though, is so I can also look out my window and see them.:D

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Thanks for all of the info, I ordered a FF. I know about color mixing, I have a DMX unit that controls 120 VDC RGB LED rope lights. The rope lights should have been a little translucent instead of clear to allow better color mixing.

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Hello!

I have added firefly units to my program but I seem to have a problem. During come of the chase sequences 1-3 pixels on the firefly unit refuse to change color or turn off. So in a sequence where it bounces from end to end, one or two of the top middle pixel pick their own color and just stay like that!

Help me!

Thought I was good to go!! always something!!!!

Eric

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thebaronn wrote:

Hello!

I have added firefly units to my program but I seem to have a problem. During come of the chase sequences 1-3 pixels on the firefly unit refuse to change color or turn off. So in a sequence where it bounces from end to end, one or two of the top middle pixel pick their own color and just stay like that!

Help me!

Thought I was good to go!! always something!!!!

Eric


Make sure you have the latest firmware. That fixed most all the stuck pixel problems.

If you have the latest firmware try this it worked for me.

Don't use "ON" commands use a "Fade up" set at 95 to 100. This elimanated any stuck pixels for me. You could even try a 99 to 100 setting. I used 95 to 100

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Texan78 wrote:

Does anyone have a screen shot of what the programming looks like in LOR II?


A screen shot of FF programming will look identical to any other programming in LOR II.

Programming FF is just like programming 3 controllers that have 16 channels of red on the first then 16 channels of green then 16 channels of green.

The only difference here would be the ability to turn the same channel on all three controllers to the same intensity and get a white light.

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You can use something like this website to figure out what color mix you would need for the desired color.

For this I am going to use the color that is in the top right hand corner of the color box on the web site above (yes it is an ugly color).

The color mix for it is red=204, green=153, blue=102

I set up my channel names for FF like this..Lets use d-lights default settings of controller numbers of 02,03,04

Controller 02 Red 1.1, Red 2.1, Red 3.1,....thru Red 16.1

Controller 03 Green 1.1, Green 2.1, Green 3.1,.......thru Green 16.1

Controller 04 Blue 1.1, Blue 2.1, Blue 3.1, ..........thru Blue 16.1

The reason for my numbering system is....the first # is the channel # the second number tells me which FF unit it is. I have 4 FF units so the last one is channel#.4

If I want to do a chase in the color above. I first program the chase using just the Red 1.1, thru Red 16.1 with intensity set at 204. Then I will copy the chase and past it into Green 1.1, thru Green 16.1. I will then go thru and change the intensity on what I pasted into Green 1.1, thru Green 16.1 to 153. Then do the same copy and past into the Blue 1.1, thru Blue 16.1 then change that intensity to 102.

This will produce a chase on my FF unit 1 with the (ugly:D) color I chose from the link.

Programming a Red (controller 02 in the above example) or Green (03) or Blue (04)chase (or whatever) only requires programming on one controller. If you want a Red chase only program on (controller 02) red 1.1 thru red 16.1. If you want a white chase program on Red 1.1 thru 16.1 then copy and past it into the other two (Green, Blue) controllers.

I am sure there are other ways to do this. Maybe even an easier way. There are also other places to get your R,G,B color intensity #'s too



I hope this will help someone understand and not confuse them:shock:

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Just wanted to thank tboerjan for starting this thread and everyone else for contributing. This information is better than anything that is on the D-Light website (which is pretty sad, my website is better, LOL!)

Maybe someday I will create something so cool that no matter how bad my customer service and information distribution is, people will still buy it!!! (hehe)

Eric

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Paul Roberson wrote:

I hope this will help someone understand and not confuse them:shock:



Yep I am confused, I am not sure where the hex colors come into play or where to put these. I don't have these yet but would like to order some. I don't want to get them and find out it is a tedious task to sequence them. I am better with a visual to get the idea so can you post some screen shots. When you say it looks identical to any other programming in LOR II I would assume that would be as simple as turning on and off lights in the sequence but it doesn't sound that easy. How do you know when the lights have changed a color in the sequence, how do you mix the colors to change them. That is what I am not understanding. All I have done is simple turn lights on and off programming.

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Well, I was lucky and didnt have to update the firmware.

After 10 minutes my firefly was up and running. Only thanks to tboerjan and this thread. All you have to do is dowload the d-light hardware, set the channel number for the firefly and you are done. (you will never see it in the LOR hardware utility) But sequence it just like 3 16 channel controllers.

I quickily added a chase sequence to a song. Boring back and forth only. But added 48 new channels. sequenced the jump (easy with cut a paste, but i use the tapper wizard and in 4/4 time) and it was up and running in 10 minutes. It was pretty sweet!

Just have that "stuck" pixel problem which I have read on how to fix with a 95-100% fade.

So will try that tomorrow! (of course I have said nothing new, just want people to know that this is very doable and fairly painless, and i have vista, lol!)

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Texan78 wrote:

Paul Roberson wrote:
I hope this will help someone understand and not confuse them:shock:



Yep I am confused, I am not sure where the hex colors come into play or where to put these. I don't have these yet but would like to order some. I don't want to get them and find out it is a tedious task to sequence them. I am better with a visual to get the idea so can you post some screen shots. When you say it looks identical to any other programming in LOR II I would assume that would be as simple as turning on and off lights in the sequence but it doesn't sound that easy. How do you know when the lights have changed a color in the sequence, how do you mix the colors to change them. That is what I am not understanding. All I have done is simple turn lights on and off programming.

This would produce a white clap effect then side to side in white. The only colors you will see in a visualizer will be red blue and green.

Attached files 162154=9404-FF White clap and side to si

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I dont have any screen shots.

So lets say you have only one firefly (and thats it!!!)

You want to do a simple chase from left to right and back. Set your controller using the D-light utility to 1-2-3.

In LORII make a 48 channel line up. The first 16 will be for the color red, the 2nd 16 for green, and the last 16 for blue)

So for a red chase (assuming .10 sec interval) it will look much like you screen shot. Diagonal down (to the 1.16) then diagonal up (to the 1.1) and again and again. When you play it, it will be a red chase sequence.

So then for a blue, do the same pattern. And same for green.

That part is easy.

For a white, make the same chase sequence in red, and idtentical sequences in blue and green (kinds like olt tvs where you had to like up the green, red, and blue lines to make white and your tv was clear) They must turn on and off at the same time. Basically copy and paste.

For purple you would do what you did for the color white, excelt erase the sequences for controller 2(green) so you are only mixing red and blue.

To get other color, you have to figure out the intensities.

So for magenta, your red (1st 16 channels) will be on at 100% and blue (3rd 16 channels)would have an intensity of 50%. And yes this is very tedious. That is why I think I will only be having red, green, blue, white and purple this year. Because there is no cut and paste for changing intensities (i think). You have to sequence the red and 100% intensity. Then I find the easiest to be to copy and past that to the blue (which makes it purple as of now) and click on the set intensity tool and change it to 50%. Then click on every "on" box in the blue with the new intensity (you could just do it free hand instead of the copy and paste, but this way you are just "tracing" the intensity onto the original, no real room for error like eyeballing it.)

So as you can guess you can have every color unter that raindow. You just have to figure out the intensities.

I seriously need a computer screen that it 3 feet tall!!!

Hope this helps.

Eric

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Here is a las file of the above programming. The sequence does a 'clap' 'side to side'. First in white, then red, then green, then blue, then back to white.

There is not a way to see "white" with FF in the visual you will see Red, Green, and Blue. Likewise you can not see purple in the visual.


Attached files FireFly Sample Programming.las

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Hilarious, I wrote that long response for no reason!!

My slow POS computer at work only showed the top red sequence!

LOL!

Genius!

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thebaronn wrote:



I seriously need a computer screen that it 3 feet tall!!!

Hope this helps.

Eric



LOL I agree!!!

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thebaronn wrote:

Hilarious, I wrote that long response for no reason!!

My slow POS computer at work only showed the top red sequence!

LOL!

Genius!



LMAO......It was not your computer.......It was my inability and first time trying to put three screen shots together...

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