Duke Posted November 12, 2008 Share Posted November 12, 2008 Another question.What size are the "Pixels".Would 3/4" Grey PVC be good for arches with these?(I like the grey because it's more resiliant in colder temps versus the white)My plan is to wrap these onto the PVC with white tape. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tboerjan Posted November 12, 2008 Author Share Posted November 12, 2008 Yes that would be fine, but I'd use zip ties. Just my preference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duke Posted November 12, 2008 Share Posted November 12, 2008 tboerjan wrote: Yes that would be fine, but I'd use zip ties. Just my preference.Do you have any photos of these assembled as arches? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Roberson Posted November 12, 2008 Share Posted November 12, 2008 Here is a picture of mine. I still need to trim the zip ties on them. The 10' pvc was not long enough. I added 10" to each end. Attached files Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duke Posted November 12, 2008 Share Posted November 12, 2008 Paul,If you were to use 1/2" X 24" rebar as a stake with 8 to 12 inches sticking out of the ground and place the end of your arches over it, the arches would be self supporting and would not require the guy wires you have. Did you use white PVC and paint it black? Nice work even if the ties aren't trimmed. I'm geeked and can't wait to get mine. Thanks for the pics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Roberson Posted November 12, 2008 Share Posted November 12, 2008 Duke wrote: Paul,If you were to use 1/2" X 24" rebar as a stake with 8 to 12 inches sticking out of the ground and place the end of your arches over it, the arches would be self supporting and would not require the guy wires you have. Did you use white PVC and paint it black? Nice work even if the ties aren't trimmed. I'm geeked and can't wait to get mine. Thanks for the pics.Yeah, I did not figure I could get the uniform enough using rebar stakes. Most of my front yard has about 3 to 6" of dirt the rock you can't drive rebar thru. If my son trips over the guy wire while running around I may try and use rebar.I have a piece of wire attached to each side holding the bend uniformed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duke Posted November 12, 2008 Share Posted November 12, 2008 Paul Roberson wrote: Yeah, I did not figure I could get the uniform enough using rebar stakes. Most of my front yard has about 3 to 6" of dirt the rock you can't drive rebar thru. If my son trips over the guy wire while running around I may try and use rebar.I have a piece of wire attached to each side holding the bend uniformed.ROCK? Yikes! Maybe the wife can get you a Jack Hammer for Christmas? LOL.Just joking. My brother lives in Colorado and has the same problem when wanting to dig deeper than the soil. Dynomite works too!Thanks again Paul. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafter Bar R Posted November 12, 2008 Share Posted November 12, 2008 Will LOR have a similar product in the future? If not, will the firefly LED's work with LOR II? Do I need any new adapters or will LOR II recognize the Firefly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Roberson Posted November 13, 2008 Share Posted November 13, 2008 lonewolvie wrote: Will LOR have a similar product in the future? If not, will the firefly LED's work with LOR II? Do I need any new adapters or will LOR II recognize the Firefly?FF will work with LOR II. You need D-lights USB to 485 adapter for FF firmware upgrades only. You can do everything else with LOR's USB 485 adapters.LOR II will not actually "recognize" FF. When you do a unit ID refresh LOR II will not find FF. It will run it though.Use D-Lights hardware utility to set FF unit ID to whatever you need to. The FF unit will take that unit ID and the next two. FF comes shipped with unit ID of 02,03,04You could set up FF in LOR II by adding 3 controllers. Say 0A, 0B, 0C. 0A will be 16 pixels of red, 0B will be green, and 0C will be blue. Do this and program away. When you get FF just use D-Lights FF utility to set the controller ID to 0A and you should be good to go.I did still have some stuck lights after the firmware upgrade using .01 chases. When I say some...maybe 1 or 2 thru a whole routine. I replaced the 'ON' command with a 95 to 100 'fade up', and there were no more stuck lights. Your eyes can't see the difference between the two.Sorry if this is more info than you were looking for:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tboerjan Posted November 13, 2008 Author Share Posted November 13, 2008 I do not no of a similar LOR product, yet. I do hope they make it easier to program via S2. One has to download and use the D-Light Hardware program to change the units ids from 2,3, and 4 to what you need them set to. Then they won't appear as LOR controllers, but you can still treat them as such. Remembering that they are Red, Green and Blue and you can send different intensies (0-100%) to create any color. For example, 25,25,25% would give one white at a lower intensy as opposed to all three being set to 100%. Purple would be red and blue, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafter Bar R Posted November 13, 2008 Share Posted November 13, 2008 Thanks that explains more than I could get from D-light's website, I think that I may order these.The way I have mine set up now, Firefly's unit ID numbers would work where they're set at(02 03 04). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hosehead Posted November 13, 2008 Share Posted November 13, 2008 Would anybody be willing to share some sections from their firefly sequences with color changes, etc? I've got just two of these ordered to make a couple arches and would like to start adding them into my routines but where to even begin? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dfr2923 Posted November 13, 2008 Share Posted November 13, 2008 Paul, I noticed you put the pixels up on your arches does it look good running that way? It looks like the wire would follow the curviture of the pipe much better that way but is it brighter if the pixels face towards the street? Just was wondering I think I will build mine like Paul's but was wondering if there is any difference. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Roberson Posted November 13, 2008 Share Posted November 13, 2008 dfr2923 wrote: Paul, I noticed you put the pixels up on your arches does it look good running that way? It looks like the wire would follow the curvature of the pipe much better that way but is it brighter if the pixels face towards the street? Just was wondering I think I will build mine like Paul's but was wondering if there is any difference. Thanks.I don't think they are any brighter looking straight at them than they are from the side. With the white cap on them it defuses the light and it fills the cap. Did that make any sense? If you were to take the white screw on caps off then you would have to face them towards the street.My mounting preference though, is so I can also look out my window and see them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dfr2923 Posted November 14, 2008 Share Posted November 14, 2008 Makes perfect sense to me, I am going to mount mine that way also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafter Bar R Posted November 14, 2008 Share Posted November 14, 2008 Thanks for all of the info, I ordered a FF. I know about color mixing, I have a DMX unit that controls 120 VDC RGB LED rope lights. The rope lights should have been a little translucent instead of clear to allow better color mixing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebaronn Posted November 18, 2008 Share Posted November 18, 2008 Hello!I have added firefly units to my program but I seem to have a problem. During come of the chase sequences 1-3 pixels on the firefly unit refuse to change color or turn off. So in a sequence where it bounces from end to end, one or two of the top middle pixel pick their own color and just stay like that!Help me!Thought I was good to go!! always something!!!!Eric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texan78 Posted November 18, 2008 Share Posted November 18, 2008 Does anyone have a screen shot of what the programming looks like in LOR II? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Roberson Posted November 19, 2008 Share Posted November 19, 2008 thebaronn wrote: Hello!I have added firefly units to my program but I seem to have a problem. During come of the chase sequences 1-3 pixels on the firefly unit refuse to change color or turn off. So in a sequence where it bounces from end to end, one or two of the top middle pixel pick their own color and just stay like that!Help me!Thought I was good to go!! always something!!!!EricMake sure you have the latest firmware. That fixed most all the stuck pixel problems.If you have the latest firmware try this it worked for me.Don't use "ON" commands use a "Fade up" set at 95 to 100. This elimanated any stuck pixels for me. You could even try a 99 to 100 setting. I used 95 to 100 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Roberson Posted November 19, 2008 Share Posted November 19, 2008 Texan78 wrote: Does anyone have a screen shot of what the programming looks like in LOR II?A screen shot of FF programming will look identical to any other programming in LOR II.Programming FF is just like programming 3 controllers that have 16 channels of red on the first then 16 channels of green then 16 channels of green.The only difference here would be the ability to turn the same channel on all three controllers to the same intensity and get a white light. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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