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ORBITZ enclosure

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Scott,
You will have to cut out the molded platic that bolts the electrical outlet to the box out and then you will have to cut out a center molded post that helps hold the front plastic plate on. you will see what i mean when they arrive. Otherwise its a works great!

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That may be another alternative, I would just buy one and try it 1st before i would buy a buch.

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Thought it was less according to LOR?

Dimensions of CTB16D
The CTB16D dimensions with heat sink attached are 6-5/8" wide x 8-5/8" long x 2-1/8" tall.

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Can't tell if would fit because I don't have anything yet. Sorry.

Might have to update the dimensions accordingly.

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dribbles wrote:

Thought it was less according to LOR?

Dimensions of CTB16D
The CTB16D dimensions with heat sink attached are 6-5/8" wide x 8-5/8" long x 2-1/8" tall.

I try to tell everyone that the cards are 9 1/4... They are actually almost exactly 9"....

I think that the 8-5/8" is the measurement of the heatsinks edge to edge but it does not include the triac mounting screws that stick out beyond them.

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dribbles wrote:

Thought it was less according to LOR?

Dimensions of CTB16D
The CTB16D dimensions with heat sink attached are 6-5/8" wide x 8-5/8" long x 2-1/8" tall.

I know where you got that sentence .. because I wrote it.

Just to make sure everyone knows, the LOR Wiki site is not an official site!

The dimensions will be updated shortly.

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Is it just me or is there alot more people hanging around here this year? will it all stop after the april sale? i hope not! this place is great!

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after the April sale, any of us that are first time LOR wont be able to get away because we will all have even more questions.

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looks great Scot...thanks for the heads up.

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No problem Rod just showing off another alternative to rite time boxes.

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ok does any one have a part number or something cause they guy at my home depot here in indy was a real jerk and he called me back said they could special order them but it would be $50.00 and i dont think thats right?

thank you:)

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attachment.php?id=1909

model #57095 Photo Compliments of Scot Meyers

That is very wrong what they quoted you. I would ask to speak to the manager. When I told them I spoke with the manufacturer, also gave HD the phone number to call. I was quoted $25.00 each. Through the manufacturer, they were $34.00 plus shipping. If you can't deal with them, I would wait, if you can untill Light-O-Rama comes out with their new ones they have been talking about.

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Scot, how did you mount the boards to the box, After you cut off the center post you are left with 4 other posts that do not line up with the holes in the LOR heat sink boards. Did you just cut new holes in the Orbit box and screw the board the them?

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MichaelC wrote:

Scot, how did you mount the boards to the box, After you cut off the center post you are left with 4 other posts that do not line up with the holes in the LOR heat sink boards. Did you just cut new holes in the Orbit box and screw the board the them?
Michael, Do you have the Orbitz box? I personally took a dremel, and cut out everything inside my orbitz boxes. Filled the hole with caulk where the center post was, marked and installed standoffs and still trying to find an electrical box connector that will fit all the wires for the channels. Hope this helps. Here's a pic of one of mine.

Attached files 49544=2894-lor.jpg

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Yes, I got 2 boxes from e-bay. The seller had 5 so I can only assume another PC member has the other 3. I am using 16 3' long 14/3 3-pin female cables to connect to my box. They are a bit bulky and I am forced to cut more holes in the bottom of the orbits box. When you take the grommets out, the best I can do is 5 or maybe 6 of my cables per stock hole. I'm planning on securing the wires with large electrical connectors (HD or Lowes). I'm not concerned with a water tight seal on the bottom. As a matter of fact, I think I want to leave some breathing room for condensation.

What did you use for stand-offs? How did you fasten them to the box and then the circuit board to the standoffs?

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I got my standoffs from Radioshack. They come with screws. I first set the board in the box and mark where to drill holes for the screws. I am using zip cord for my channels. There is one thread on PC of someone who shows pics of where they made there own out of plastic I think. I personally like the metal. They are pre threaded and come with the screws. Hope this helps.

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For those interested in the box that was brought up from Hometech (http://www.hometech.com/techwire/boxes.html), I've used those. Works great for CTB-08's. A bit tight, but you CAN get a CTB-16 in, but you won't be able to get wiring out the holes in the bottom. Currently my CTB-16 that's in one of these has 4 quad boxes mounted on the cover. I will be moving that board into a different enclosure when I have a chance. Because of the structure of the box, a CTB-16 must be mounted vertical instead of horizontal in the box, which leaves your wires exiting toward the side, thus the reason I chose to mount 4 quad boxed on the cover. I believe I posted pics of this box 2 years ago, but don't think I have the pics any longer.

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Michael,

Scott did EXACTLY what i did with my orbitz box.

(BTW NICE JOB SCOTT!!)

use your dremmel (if you have one) cut out the middle post and any other posts that will be in the way. includiong the plug and the housing for it. Take some silicone or caulk to plug up the holes to makeit water tight and then re drill. I too went to radio snack for my spacers but i do know some guys like Jeff Tyroski make thier own spacers. Also I use spt-2 w gauge extinsion cords for mini lights and I use 16 ga outdoor cord for boxes that will be hooked to spot lights or c-7 lights. Just a rule of thumb that Tim Fischer and Jeff Womack told me along time ago.

Good luck in your build. I would love to see finished pics when they are completed.

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Scot Meyers wrote:

Just a rule of thumb that Tim Fischer and Jeff Womack told me along time ago.

Scott,

Would you mind sharing the "rule of thumb" with the rest of us newbies?

Steve

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cheepguy wrote:

Scot Meyers wrote:
Just a rule of thumb that Tim Fischer and Jeff Womack told me along time ago.

Scott,

Would you mind sharing the "rule of thumb" with the rest of us newbies?

Steve

Steve.

I believe they use the heavier cord for c7's and spot lights because of a heavier draw of electric to run these verse mini's or led's. But I'm sure Scot will verify this or correct me.

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Scot Meyers wrote:

Michael,

Scott did EXACTLY what i did with my orbitz box.

(BTW NICE JOB SCOTT!!)

use your dremmel (if you have one) cut out the middle post and any other posts that will be in the way. includiong the plug and the housing for it.
Got that idea from you Scot when I was getting or waiting for my boxes to arrive. Thanks Scot

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EXACTLY!! Scott!

Steve,

The rule of thumb.

When using mini lights SPT-2 wire will work to power those lights because they dont need a heavy guage wire to send the current. However when using a spotlight or c-7 c-9 the heavy gauge cord should be used to control the C class lights.

So when you get your hobby boards you will want some with just SPT2 wire for minis in a box and a box that is designed for the higher amp lights.

Good luck

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