Guest guest Posted June 2, 2006 Share Posted June 2, 2006 Scot, how did you mount the boards to the box, After you cut off the center post you are left with 4 other posts that do not line up with the holes in the LOR heat sink boards. Did you just cut new holes in the Orbit box and screw the board the them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted June 2, 2006 Share Posted June 2, 2006 MichaelC wrote: Scot, how did you mount the boards to the box, After you cut off the center post you are left with 4 other posts that do not line up with the holes in the LOR heat sink boards. Did you just cut new holes in the Orbit box and screw the board the them?Michael, Do you have the Orbitz box? I personally took a dremel, and cut out everything inside my orbitz boxes. Filled the hole with caulk where the center post was, marked and installed standoffs and still trying to find an electrical box connector that will fit all the wires for the channels. Hope this helps. Here's a pic of one of mine. Attached files Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted June 2, 2006 Share Posted June 2, 2006 Yes, I got 2 boxes from e-bay. The seller had 5 so I can only assume another PC member has the other 3. I am using 16 3' long 14/3 3-pin female cables to connect to my box. They are a bit bulky and I am forced to cut more holes in the bottom of the orbits box. When you take the grommets out, the best I can do is 5 or maybe 6 of my cables per stock hole. I'm planning on securing the wires with large electrical connectors (HD or Lowes). I'm not concerned with a water tight seal on the bottom. As a matter of fact, I think I want to leave some breathing room for condensation.What did you use for stand-offs? How did you fasten them to the box and then the circuit board to the standoffs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted June 2, 2006 Share Posted June 2, 2006 I got my standoffs from Radioshack. They come with screws. I first set the board in the box and mark where to drill holes for the screws. I am using zip cord for my channels. There is one thread on PC of someone who shows pics of where they made there own out of plastic I think. I personally like the metal. They are pre threaded and come with the screws. Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted June 2, 2006 Share Posted June 2, 2006 For those interested in the box that was brought up from Hometech (http://www.hometech.com/techwire/boxes.html), I've used those. Works great for CTB-08's. A bit tight, but you CAN get a CTB-16 in, but you won't be able to get wiring out the holes in the bottom. Currently my CTB-16 that's in one of these has 4 quad boxes mounted on the cover. I will be moving that board into a different enclosure when I have a chance. Because of the structure of the box, a CTB-16 must be mounted vertical instead of horizontal in the box, which leaves your wires exiting toward the side, thus the reason I chose to mount 4 quad boxed on the cover. I believe I posted pics of this box 2 years ago, but don't think I have the pics any longer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted June 2, 2006 Share Posted June 2, 2006 Michael,Scott did EXACTLY what i did with my orbitz box.(BTW NICE JOB SCOTT!!)use your dremmel (if you have one) cut out the middle post and any other posts that will be in the way. includiong the plug and the housing for it. Take some silicone or caulk to plug up the holes to makeit water tight and then re drill. I too went to radio snack for my spacers but i do know some guys like Jeff Tyroski make thier own spacers. Also I use spt-2 w gauge extinsion cords for mini lights and I use 16 ga outdoor cord for boxes that will be hooked to spot lights or c-7 lights. Just a rule of thumb that Tim Fischer and Jeff Womack told me along time ago.Good luck in your build. I would love to see finished pics when they are completed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted June 3, 2006 Share Posted June 3, 2006 Scot Meyers wrote: Just a rule of thumb that Tim Fischer and Jeff Womack told me along time ago.Scott,Would you mind sharing the "rule of thumb" with the rest of us newbies?Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted June 3, 2006 Share Posted June 3, 2006 cheepguy wrote: Scot Meyers wrote: Just a rule of thumb that Tim Fischer and Jeff Womack told me along time ago.Scott,Would you mind sharing the "rule of thumb" with the rest of us newbies?SteveSteve. I believe they use the heavier cord for c7's and spot lights because of a heavier draw of electric to run these verse mini's or led's. But I'm sure Scot will verify this or correct me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted June 3, 2006 Share Posted June 3, 2006 Scot Meyers wrote: Michael,Scott did EXACTLY what i did with my orbitz box.(BTW NICE JOB SCOTT!!)use your dremmel (if you have one) cut out the middle post and any other posts that will be in the way. includiong the plug and the housing for it.Got that idea from you Scot when I was getting or waiting for my boxes to arrive. Thanks Scot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted June 8, 2006 Share Posted June 8, 2006 EXACTLY!! Scott!Steve,The rule of thumb.When using mini lights SPT-2 wire will work to power those lights because they dont need a heavy guage wire to send the current. However when using a spotlight or c-7 c-9 the heavy gauge cord should be used to control the C class lights.So when you get your hobby boards you will want some with just SPT2 wire for minis in a box and a box that is designed for the higher amp lights.Good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted June 10, 2006 Share Posted June 10, 2006 Scott,Thanks for the heads up. My dad, brother, and I are attempting to use this Orbitz box to mount one of our controllers...we'll see how it goes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted June 10, 2006 Share Posted June 10, 2006 TimI was in mitten land last week seeing my parents and thought of you.If you need help on your box pm me.good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted June 11, 2006 Share Posted June 11, 2006 Scot Meyers wrote: TimI was in mitten land last week seeing my parents and thought of you.If you need help on your box pm me.good luckMy dad, brother and I finished mounting the controller in the box. I really like the quality of the Orbitz enclosure. Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted June 15, 2006 Share Posted June 15, 2006 No problem Tim.JUST A HEADS UP!!I Was i Home Depot and Lowes yesterday pricing for James Peachtree.At home Depot the boxes are currently 25.99 At Lowes they are currently 28.99also if you don't live in a semi arrid climate where sprinklers systems are not a usuall supply you my not find them but if you go on line to Home depot and lowes you might be able to get them from stores in states that sell a lot more sprinkler equipment like Nebraska Kansas Colorado Arizona etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted June 15, 2006 Share Posted June 15, 2006 Ok, Scot. The last name is Peachee, but don't worry, it gets pronounced and misspelled Peachtree alot.Just to let everyone know, Home Depot has this, like Scot said, and the SKU # for it is 206-848. I have not tried to get it on line yet but the attendant said that should work.JamesUpdate! I tried to get this online without luck. It is only available in certain regions and they will not ship cross country. To order this directly through Orbit will cost $33 plus shipping. Sometimes it's good to be in a dry environment.P.S. Thanks for all your help on this Scot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted June 15, 2006 Share Posted June 15, 2006 Sorry Buddy.I got you PM. My offer still exsists. If you live in a non semi arrid state like back east or a long the west banks of the mississippi. then you may not find these. HOWEVERIf you send me the 26.00 Plus shipping per box I wll be happy to help anyone out who would like these purchased. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 For those interested in the box that was brought up from Hometech (http://www.hometech.com/techwire/boxes.html), I've used those. Works great for CTB-08's. A bit tight, but you CAN get a CTB-16 in, but you won't be able to get wiring out the holes in the bottom. Currently my CTB-16 that's in one of these has 4 quad boxes mounted on the cover. I will be moving that board into a different enclosure when I have a chance. Because of the structure of the box, a CTB-16 must be mounted vertical instead of horizontal in the box, which leaves your wires exiting toward the side, thus the reason I chose to mount 4 quad boxed on the cover. I believe I posted pics of this box 2 years ago, but don't think I have the pics any longer.I just looked and the Hometech Link has some 10x17x3 boxes that might be able to hold 2 16d's if you back them together. The model number of this box is Item Number 11MDEGYS.Robogeek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted September 30, 2006 Share Posted September 30, 2006 Hi everyone,I just purchased the Orbit box and I have a question for those who have used this. Do you have to remove the center mounting plate, or can you just remove the GFI plug and mount the CTB-16D to the mounting plates. What am I missing?Thanks,Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted September 30, 2006 Share Posted September 30, 2006 I think you'll find folks that have done it both ways.If you mount directly to the mounting plate, there is the issue that the board is inline with the seal area- thus any leak MIGHT cause damage to the board.Others, myself included, choose to remove the mounting plate and cut out the rest of the guts and use computer stand-off to mount the bord to the box- this seats it well within the box and somewhat safer from any possible seal issues.Tadorbitz pictures in this thread all appear to have the guts cut out.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted October 12, 2006 Share Posted October 12, 2006 Did anyone ever make their Orbitz enclosure waterproof where the wires go into the box? If so, how did you fit all the wires into those 2 holes with the connectors? Anyone drill other holes into the box? Thx! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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