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R1 Resistor Pack ID problem....again...


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Posted

Hey all. First post.

I just received my CTB-16Kv6 in the mail today and before I start soldering, I wanted to do an inventory like the manual said.

I've seen several posts regarding susbtitute parts for the R1 network, but I haven't seen one that references the part number I have. So I wanted to make sure I have the right thing before everything gets soldered down.

R1 calls for the following part number: 8X-2-472 or CTSK055177083472. By process of elimination, the only other resistor pack I have left has the part number CTSK082877083472P. Will that work? Is this the correct one?



Thanks for everyones help! Looking forward to getting started.



-=coasterbp

Posted

coasterbp wrote:

Hey all. First post.

I just received my CTB-16Kv6 in the mail today and before I start soldering, I wanted to do an inventory like the manual said.

I've seen several posts regarding susbtitute parts for the R1 network, but I haven't seen one that references the part number I have. So I wanted to make sure I have the right thing before everything gets soldered down.

R1 calls for the following part number: 8X-2-472 or CTSK055177083472. By process of elimination, the only other resistor pack I have left has the part number CTSK082877083472P. Will that work? Is this the correct one?



Thanks for everyones help! Looking forward to getting started.



-=coasterbp


Yes, that is the same.
The different numbers at the beginning are date code or batch numbers, and the "P" on the end means the part is RoHS compliant (meaning lead-free).
The important numbers (77083472) are indicating it is the same part electrically.

Hope that helps you, and welcome to LOR! B)
Posted

Awesome, thank you so much, Terry! Can't wait to get home from work today so that I can start soldering! Yeah!



-=coasterbp

  • 2 months later...
Posted

I have the same kit with high-power heatsinks. However, the back two holes don't match up on the two heatsinks. I oriented them like in the picture, but can't figure it out? Another question is to test before I attach heatsinks, where can I ground the power? Or can I test without connecting ground until I get it in an enclosure. Sorry if you can't tell I'm kinda new at this. Thank you for your help.

Joe

Posted

Sorry fat fingers :X
cant figure out how to delete 2nd post.:?

Posted

I always test my controllers before putting heatsinks on. I use the little heatsinks when putting the triacs in to help get them lined up and after I get the legs soldered I clip the long leads. Then test. The ground wire is fine not connected for testing. Also, I think it goes without saying...put the board on a NON conductive surface. BE VERY CAREFUL the voltage and current levels can do serious harm to you.

Only time I had a heatsink NOT line up was when i put in on incorrectly.

Chuck

Posted

Thanks Chuck, I really appreciate your advice, and thank you for the caution, that would be scary :shock:
I will try that tonight.
Joe

Posted

just one thing when you test it and the ground is not hooked up to anything make sure it does not touch any of the soldering points anywhere. I did this once i set the board down on the carpet and the fuse holder soldeing joint sat on the ground wire and when power turned on i had a ark which lighted some of the carpet on fire. Boy was the wife mad. Just thought i would share.

Dan

Posted

Thank you gentlemen, tested my board everything checked out. Feels great. Your advice & guidance gave me confidence. Thank you :)

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