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CTB-16K modification of TRIAC's to 1A


downunder

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I am trying to get some help regarding modifying the CTB-16K kit i have just assembled the kit, however in Australia the voltage it 240v and therefore the current is more than 1/2 the US. Now i am using LED therfore the current draw if minimal and i would like to dim a channel.

I am not familiar with TRIAC's and have seen ones that are 1A and i am wondering if i can replace with these and what else i would need to do in the modification.

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What are you looking to gain? That rating is just the maximum that the triac is rated to switch. A lower rating won't affect efficiency...

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The problem the 16A ones have a minimium of 100ma, well using LED this equated almost to the maximium 24W per channel. therefore i will not be able to dimm them.

I know some are using snubbers (resistors to put false load) however i went to LED's to reduce power consumption and this is defeating the purpose.

I would like to be able to dim the 240v LED, their maximium load per chanel is only 15W or 70 LED's for a fan project.

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1st, since you have them assembled, have you ensured you have the latest firmware, and tested them with the LEDs you intend to use? With the latest firmware on the PC series controllers I am getting decent dimming results with single strands of cheap half wave 30 LED sets, and no additional load.

Next, while I have not managed to locate the flashlight I usually use to read the actual installed part numbers for any variations, the documentation calls for a BTA16-600BW. This is an insulated tab, TO-220 case, 600V switching, 50mA trigger, snubberless triac. To start with, the data I am looking at shows IH as 50mA. All the BTAxx-xxxBWxx series triacs that I can search in Digikey show a 50mA Ih so you don't gain anything on the low end, with the 10, 8, or 6 A variants of the triac. Trying even wider searches, it looks like as soon as I select snubberless, Ih jumps from 30mA to 50mA.

So, do test and see how the LEDs you are going to use work with your card. Don't presume that it necessarily has the latest firmware release on it until you actually verify it. If it does not perform as well as you want, I'm not sure you will have much luck substantially improving the minimum hold on current all that much.

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