CMB16-V4 Problems

[JR V]

I have only tested this on the 1-8 channel bank. But when I turn a channel on all of the channels on that side are turning on.

I am using this controller to control our outdoor sprinkler system. When I did a dry run last night with just bringing out the controller, power supply and laptop and hooked up a couple of channels everything worked just fine. Brought everything back in and mounted it all in a case went out tonight tried it again and when I turn a channel on all of the channels on that bank are turning on.

Brought it back in and put my voltage tester on it to verify and yep there all lighting up. Any ideas or solutions maybe hopefully a firmware update is a fix?

Thanks JR V.

[JR V]

OK, so I thought about it and the only thing I changed from last night from today was I made a heatsink and put it on. So I took them off and tested again and everything worked out fine. Then I noticed that its the (-) side that is being controlled. Isn't it spose to the (+) side?

[-klb-]

These control the ground side. Also the current transistors have the heat sink tab tied into the channel. Attaching the heatsink without electrical insulation ties them together. But I think they are now rated at 4A per channel without the heatsink.

[LightORamaDan]

There is a warning in the owners manual for the CMB16 about putting on heatsinks. If you use a single bar of metal for the heatsink you will need to insulate using mica insulators.

Switching the negative is fairly common in electronic devices. Many electronic devices can sink more current than they can source thus designs commonly have an electronic device switch (as the sink).

[JR V]

I guess I should do a follow up.

I did go ahead and remount the board in its closer without any heatsinks on. Didn't really need them anyways, just made it easier to mount in its closure. And went ahead and hooked everything up.

Everything is running great. So Dan you can add to your list of things people are using your controllers for. "computerized sprinkler system".



I know people are probably wondering, "Why did I use an LOR controller instead of an irrigation controller." Simple...

1.) We have 3 acres here and are going to end up with a lot of irrigation zones. Right now alone I am running 6 zones and thats just the section between the house and the street, not including any drip zones I still need to set up out front.

2.) In the long run its cheaper for me to run everything off of 1 or even 2 16 channel controllers then it is to buy multiple irrigation controllers.

3.) I can easily change how long I want just a single zone to run. Most irrigation controllers have you set a time and thats the time span all of the zones are going to run. With this I can have my outer perimeter zones run for a few minutes less then the two zones that run in the middle the have to make a full 360 degree sweep.

4.) Like #3 I can easily tell certain zones to run on certain days and others to run on different days to spread out all the watering.

5.) Our house is new and so I didn't have to change anything to make this all work. Plus I already had a low volt controller that I ordered last year so that I could play with it.

6.) With all of this set up and in place now, I can easily hook up any low volt landscape lighting into the mix.

7.) OK, I just have to admit. Its kinda cool saying my sprinkler system is computerized. LOL



If anyone out there is interested in what it takes to do this. I am always here for assistance.

[LightORamaDan]

Cool!

[Ponddude]

JR this is a great use of the controller. Any way you can show some pictures of the setup?

[JR V]

Ponddude wrote:

JR this is a great use of the controller. Any way you can show some pictures of the setup?

Been busy lately so just finally saw this post. I will try and get out this weekend and get some pics of what I did so you can see it all.