coachjc Posted December 17, 2023 Share Posted December 17, 2023 (edited) My show has been running fine for the past few weeks. And I've had this same LOR pixel tree (16x25) running for 6-8 years now. When I was leaving my house last night, I noticed the entire show is working fine, but the pixel tree was dark. I have debugged all of the power source and it's getting power just fine. It also is controller #1 in my network, and is passing through the signal correctly to the rest of the network. I cannot figure out what is happening to it... and I've never had anything like this happen to any of my LOR equipment in the past ~8 years. And I don't know what to do / test. Did a fuse or other hardware part go bad? This tree is the centerpiece of my show, and I am desperate for any kind of direction that you can give me. (and I'm just about to add 8 LED mini trees that each have two sets of 400 lights. It's my biggest addition to the show for many years, and I was just about to unleash it tonight.) Many thanks in advance LOR family. 🙏🎄🌟 Edited December 17, 2023 by coachjc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremiah Ackermann Posted December 17, 2023 Share Posted December 17, 2023 If you run test patterns (little white button) does the tree light up? If no, then seems power or board related. I can’t say for certain, but it’s possible the signal could still go through the board without power. If yes, then it could be as simple as a unit ID issue between the preview and controller? Doesn’t seem likely if you had the controller for that long, but it’s the first thing I would verify. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimehc Posted December 17, 2023 Share Posted December 17, 2023 I do not see a lite Status light on the Board... Verify AC and DC voltage to and from Power Supply... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k6ccc Posted December 17, 2023 Share Posted December 17, 2023 Jimehc beat me to it. I don't see a lit status light. Make sure you REALLY are getting power to the board (particularly the right side as seen in your photo. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coachjc Posted December 18, 2023 Author Share Posted December 18, 2023 (edited) I agree that the light (red?) that I thought I normally see in this box has not been on since this started. There is power coming from the source to the extension cord that this pixie 8 box plugs into. This was not a DIY setup, and it was already put together for me from the factory. ( I'm sharing that because all I know is that power is getting to the extension cord that this box has always plugged into and it can power other lights, etc. But it's not making this box work for some reason.) I think I have a couple basic electrical tools, but I have no idea where to begin testing the hardware. I'm trying to figure out whether the whole box failed and I should quickly try to quickly order one... or if maybe something got loose / something basic broke? None of my hardware has ever failed... So I'm a bit lost. Edited December 18, 2023 by coachjc Clarity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coachjc Posted December 18, 2023 Author Share Posted December 18, 2023 Also... I tried pushing that white button... (while it was connected to power.) and nothing lights up on the tree, and status lights on the board are still off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimehc Posted December 18, 2023 Share Posted December 18, 2023 The "power supply" is in-between the incoming AC power cord and the Control Board (First Suspect)... Although it could also be the Control Board (Second Suspect)... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheDucks Posted December 18, 2023 Share Posted December 18, 2023 A low cost DVM is real handy. Measure Volts: AC or DC, check continuity (tone or resistance). More expensive one can even measure AC and in some cases DC via a clamp over the wire) I suggest disconnecting all Strings, then power up and see if you get a light Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coachjc Posted December 18, 2023 Author Share Posted December 18, 2023 15 minutes ago, Jimehc said: The "power supply" is in-between the incoming AC power cord and the Control Board (First Suspect)... Although it could also be the Control Board (Second Suspect)... How do I test the "power supply", and the "control board"? What tools? Where/how do I test? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheDucks Posted December 18, 2023 Share Posted December 18, 2023 Volt meter. AKA DVM or a simple 12V light bulb across the + and - (right side-> labeled Logic power ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coachjc Posted December 18, 2023 Author Share Posted December 18, 2023 1 minute ago, TheDucks said: A low cost DVM is real handy. Measure Volts: AC or DC, check continuity (tone or resistance). More expensive one can even measure AC and in some cases DC via a clamp over the wire) I suggest disconnecting all Strings, then power up and see if you get a light Actually... I do have a DVM. (but I've only used it for testing the charge on special / high end flashlight batteries.) So for a first test... you just mean to unplug both CAT5 cables, and then just see if I get that red/power light back on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orville Posted December 18, 2023 Share Posted December 18, 2023 (edited) Has this controller been unplugged and left outside for extended periods? If the answer to that is yes, was the controller power cord end that plugs into the extension cord left exposed to the elements? If that answer is yes, there would be a very good chance corrosion has built up on the power cord prongs. Can you plug the controller directly into a working outlet WITHOUT any extension cords? If yes, does it light the power L.E.D. on the board, or is it still dark? If lit, then unit is getting power, if not, check fuses, check power cord with a good volt or multimeter for 120V~AC~ at the main power supply input of the 5 or 12V power supply unit, if good, check if you are getting the correct voltage output from it. If the power cord shows no ~AC~ Voltage at the power supply, then chances are you need to replace the 120V power cord, 120V power good, but no DC output voltage from the power supply, chances are power supply has failed and will probably need replacing. If the prongs on the ~AC~ power cord are corroded: either replace the cord. Or you can try this, and this may sound ridiculous, but it works: get a can of Coca~Cola, pour it into a dish, and find a way to hold the cord in place where the prongs are submerged into the soda. Let it sit for about 30 minutes to an hour(depending on how bad the corrosion is). Niw remove, wipe clean with something like a Lysol wipe to remove the cola and stickiness. Use a clean paper towel to dry thoroughly from any dampness left by the wipe. Once task completed, plug the cord into a known, good working extension cord, the prongs should look just like new again, and should work normally. At least this saves you from having to replace a corroded cord and will last for some time. I use this method on my controllers and have been for years, haven't replaced any cords that corroded on any of my controllers yet. And some of mine are 13+ years old, been outside the majority of their life. And they wonder why I won't drink Coca~Cola.🤣🤣🤣 Edited December 18, 2023 by Orville Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheDucks Posted December 18, 2023 Share Posted December 18, 2023 29 minutes ago, coachjc said: Actually... I do have a DVM. (but I've only used it for testing the charge on special / high end flashlight batteries.) So for a first test... you just mean to unplug both CAT5 cables, and then just see if I get that red/power light back on? I was thinking the Light strings AKA the load. 1st test is a light load Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coachjc Posted December 18, 2023 Author Share Posted December 18, 2023 7 minutes ago, TheDucks said: I was thinking the Light strings AKA the load. 1st test is a light load Do you mean unplugging 7/8 of the strings / connectors that light up the tree LED's... and then try to test the power? (Related to the other reply... I'll definitely test an entirely new power cord... can temp swap another power cord that I know is working on other LOR controllers.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coachjc Posted December 18, 2023 Author Share Posted December 18, 2023 18 hours ago, Orville said: If lit, then unit is getting power, if not, check fuses, check power cord with a good volt or multimeter for 120V~AC~ at the main power supply input of the 5 or 12V power supply unit, if good, check if you are getting the correct voltage output from it. If the power cord shows no ~AC~ Voltage at the power supply, then chances are you need to replace the 120V power cord, 120V power good, but no DC output voltage from the power supply, chances are power supply has failed and will probably need replacing. I checked the power cord & supply... cords were good... but box still wasn't receiving power. I was also able to figure out how to check all 8 fuses... and they were good too. Can any of you guide me as to how to check the power cord & power supply? (or refer me to a video or something) I've searched around a bit... but not sure where/what specifically to check with my DMM. Also... I saw where to purchase a new board, or a brand new assembled Pixie 8. Where would I purchase a new power supply and/or cord? (and are either of those a simple job? or do they need soldering, etc.?) Thanks a million for all of your help! (I'm grateful I've had so many years (~8) without any LOR hardware failures... and hopefully this is it for a while) :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimehc Posted December 18, 2023 Share Posted December 18, 2023 AC voltage to the input terminals on the power supply and 12 volts on the output terminals on the power supply... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k6ccc Posted December 18, 2023 Share Posted December 18, 2023 Measure for 12V DC power at the input power terminals on the Pixie controller. The photo looks like those are pretty well insulated, so you may need to work at it a bit to get the voltmeter terminals to make contact. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coachjc Posted December 18, 2023 Author Share Posted December 18, 2023 7 minutes ago, Jimehc said: AC voltage to the input terminals on the power supply and 12 volts on the output terminals on the power supply... So looks like this to test the input terminals? (and do I check both of them for AC voltage?) How/where to test the output terminals? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimehc Posted December 18, 2023 Share Posted December 18, 2023 The two Middle are 12v Negative Spades (Black Wire) - the two outer are 12v Positive Spades (Red Wire) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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