CTB16PC-G3 controller has a permament "on" channel

[klimchak]

I have a CTB16PC-G3 controller that has one of it's channels "on" even no program is running.  The rest  of the channels work just fine.  I have RESET that controller, but had no impact.  power only goes off when I unplug the unit from source power.  I have a feeling that there is a short or something internal to the controller and that I will be losing that channel.  Any thoughts?  Running firmware v1.06 on the unit. 

Thanks in advance

 

System:  Three  CTB16PC-G3 controllers

[klimchak]

I noticed that other people reported similar issues with the triacs, except their power issues seemed to be at half power only.  Mine is at full power

 

[k6ccc]

Most likely a triac.  If not the triac, then the opto-coupler that drives the triac.

 

[Orville]

23 hours ago, klimchak said:

I noticed that other people reported similar issues with the triacs, except their power issues seemed to be at half power only.  Mine is at full power

 

I've had to replace Triacs (usually the likely culprit) on a few of my older Gen1 CTB16PC Controllers, these can fail in numerous ways, they can fail and light always on at any intensity level from 1% to 100% or completely off(no power going out to that channel dangle at all).

Contact the Help Desk with the controller information and they can send you the correct Triac to replace the bad one in your controller. 

#2. You can repair it yourself if you have some good soldering skills, or #2. Fnd someone local to you that could do it for you, or

#3. Send it back to LOR for repair (depending on age of Controller, may/may not be a charge for repair).  Sending back to LOR will take the most amount of time. 

The 2nd option, depending on who replaces the Triac may/may not charge you for their services, which would possibly be faster than sending it back to LOR.

The quickest and fastest option is #1, if you can solder and do it yourself.

However, all 3 options require the Controller be taken down, put out of service until it can be fixed.  If you do it yourself, you'll have to fully dissamble the dangles from the PCB, remove the entire PCB with heatsinks attached, then remove the heatsinks from the PCB, and remove and replace the bad Triac.

Now the good news, if you are not using all 16 channels on this controller, put the prop/lights on an unused channel and mark that dangle with red tape or some removable means with "bad Triac". 

You'll have to modify every sequence to reflect the channel change to the new channel.

As long as you don't use the bad channel, you can still use the controller until time to take it down for repair.

I used one with a bad triac(always on 100%) for 3 years, never had any problems, as long as I didn't use that particular channel, until I finally took it down for repair.  At the time that controller required a ladder to access it. 

I also used one of those plastic plug in outlet covers in the dangle so no water could get into it.  I do this with all my CTB16PC Controllers unused channels. 

They Keep, dirt, water, debris and mud splash out of them, and also helps with not letting them corrode and turn green, which may require replacing the dangle, if not protected from the elements.

I even have these protective covers labeled with the channel # it goes into, along with a few pre-labeled as "BAD TRIAC" that I use in case of a channel failure, along with either a red zip tie or red electrical tape (or both) to remind me NOT to use that channel(dangle).

I also use these on any pass thru plug, like at the start of a standard incansescent or 120VAC L.E.D. string, as well as one in the female end of the string, providing it has one, and, if not being used.

 

Edited November 21, 2023 by Orville

[klimchak]

Appreciate the detailed comments.  Will rewire and skip that channel for this season and fix it myself after xmas season.  Thanks

 

21 hours ago, Orville said:

I've had to replace Triacs (usually the likely culprit) on a few of my older Gen1 CTB16PC Controllers, these can fail in numerous ways, they can fail and light always on at any intensity level from 1% to 100% or completely off(no power going out to that channel dangle at all).

Contact the Help Desk with the controller information and they can send you the correct Triac to replace the bad one in your controller. 

#2. You can repair it yourself if you have some good soldering skills, or #2. Fnd someone local to you that could do it for you, or

#3. Send it back to LOR for repair (depending on age of Controller, may/may not be a charge for repair).  Sending back to LOR will take the most amount of time. 

The 2nd option, depending on who replaces the Triac may/may not charge you for their services, which would possibly be faster than sending it back to LOR.

The quickest and fastest option is #1, if you can solder and do it yourself.

However, all 3 options require the Controller be taken down, put out of service until it can be fixed.  If you do it yourself, you'll have to fully dissamble the dangles from the PCB, remove the entire PCB with heatsinks attached, then remove the heatsinks from the PCB, and remove and replace the bad Triac.

Now the good news, if you are not using all 16 channels on this controller, put the prop/lights on an unused channel and mark that dangle with red tape or some removable means with "bad Triac". 

You'll have to modify every sequence to reflect the channel change to the new channel.

As long as you don't use the bad channel, you can still use the controller until time to take it down for repair.

I used one with a bad triac(always on 100%) for 3 years, never had any problems, as long as I didn't use that particular channel, until I finally took it down for repair.  At the time that controller required a ladder to access it. 

I also used one of those plastic plug in outlet covers in the dangle so no water could get into it.  I do this with all my CTB16PC Controllers unused channels. 

They Keep, dirt, water, debris and mud splash out of them, and also helps with not letting them corrode and turn green, which may require replacing the dangle, if not protected from the elements.

I even have these protective covers labeled with the channel # it goes into, along with a few pre-labeled as "BAD TRIAC" that I use in case of a channel failure, along with either a red zip tie or red electrical tape (or both) to remind me NOT to use that channel(dangle).

I also use these on any pass thru plug, like at the start of a standard incansescent or 120VAC L.E.D. string, as well as one in the female end of the string, providing it has one, and, if not being used.

 

 

[Orville]

38 minutes ago, klimchak said:

Appreciate the detailed comments.  Will rewire and skip that channel for this season and fix it myself after xmas season.  Thanks

 

 

Glad I could help.🙂