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Pixels are confusing and I need help


Lucas P

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I'm going to lose my marbles with pixels, got a pixie 16D last year and powered it up this year, it fried very fast, and I finally got a replacement. The replacement has just costed even more getting new software for it and now I'm stumped. The pixie wont output to my 50-pixel lights/strand. It's a 3-wire pixel strand and I'm very positive its wired correctly however the pixels won't do anything upon test via hardware utility. So here I am asking for help from (hopefully) Professionals. I've only ever worked with the simple on/off controllers so I'm very confused.

WIN_20230930_23_34_45_Pro.jpg

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The real basics: Is the LED on 😉 (it is in the picture and it sees a LOR Network).

I see a string  connector, but there is no dangle attached to the Pixie. So What Chipset does YOUR STRINGS use. WS2811 is common, but you must use HU to set the controller to match what you have.

<Smack> What voltage is your strings (12V or 5V)? Is the controller built with the same power supply?

Do any of the ATTACHED strings do anything after giving the white button a short press. (runs Self test pattern. No network needed.)  <<<<<

Modern Pixels are 3 wire. (No clock), So that is the first check, the wires are correct. -, data, (NU),+  (the color of wires varies by who made the string Red is usually +, Black -, but some just have a stripe on one. 💡 Use a magnifier and look at the node where the wires come in: The circuit has markings. BTW  DI is facing the controller)  (if that is a HC string' on the upper / flat wire side, you are on the wrong end (DO)) .  Just because the dangle connectors fit together, does not mean the correct pin order. be sure to use the correct ones for the strings (Avoid having different vendor types and voltages IF the connectors FIT)

The next check, is the insulation is not under the screws. Any of the 3 wires not making good contact, will stop things. I just can't believe all 16 strings have that goof.

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I'm confused by the picture. Is this your set up? first, where is the 12/5 volt Power supply? What is the power wires leading out of the box plugged into? 

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4 hours ago, Box on Rails said:

I'm confused by the picture. Is this your set up? first, where is the 12/5 volt Power supply? What is the power wires leading out of the box plugged into? 

The Pixie is mounted on top of the PS.

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42 minutes ago, Mr. P said:

The Pixie is mounted on top of the PS.

And it is on. This is a Gen2 Pixie (the LED is in an enough  different spot)

 

 'It Fried Fast' in reference to the previous unit has me a bit worried. Did that take out the (same as being tried ) strings when it smoked?

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11 minutes ago, TheDucks said:

And it is on. This is a Gen2 Pixie (the LED is in an enough  different spot)

 

 'It Fried Fast' in reference to the previous unit has me a bit worried. Did that take out the (same as being tried ) strings when it smoked?

The manual was confusing at the time and a jumper was put on j5 but the lights still work

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Boy o boy is the wording on JP5 messed up (all Pixie models).

Quote

 JP5 is used to select some factory the
Hardware Utility setting of RGB IC,
pixels/string and color order.

@Lucas P I now assume this is a complete LOR RTG 12V controller package? (you never  really answered any of my questions in post 2)

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What do you mean by pixels won't do anything in the HU?  Are you just using the off or on options, or are you trying to fade, shimmer, or twinkle the pixel strings? 

 If you're trying to test anything other than just turning them on or off in the HU, none of those effects work with a Pixie16D in the HU, you MUST create a test sequence (simple animation sequence) to test out the fade up/down, shimmer or twinkle effect.  The HU will only turn a RGB string off or on with the Pixie16D Controller.

Another thing, are you using SMART or DUMB RGB pixels? 

If DUMB, they won't work, as the Pixie16D IS a SMART RGB Controller, you can make a smart RGB string act dumb with a Pixie16D, however, you CAN NOT make a dumb string act smart. 

So you have to be 100% sure which type pixel type you're using. 

Your Pixie16D Controller should match the correct pixel type required (SMART), and pixel input voltage exactly, or you will probably allow the magic smoke to escape, causing possible damage to both your controller and pixel strings.

You also need to configure your Pixie16D in the HU for correct number of pixels you are using per port (default is 100), as well as IC type, WS2811 is usually correct (default), but could be different, if so, you need to change the defaults to your strings chip type used, and correct number of pixels you're using per string.

This all sounds a lot more confusing and complicated than it really is, but once you figure out the simple basics of set-up, you'll find it gets easier and easier to program(sequence) your pixel strings and props.

Believe me, I went through much of the same confusion you're going through, but after finally figuring it out, it became easier and easier to work with sequencing pixels.  And it took me about 2 weeks to understand it before I could get it all working together.

Lots of folks here always willing to help.

Good Luck with the RGB pixels.

 

Edited by Orville
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In all I’ve tried everything and sent already had to send it back one time. The connecter is wired correctly to the controller and lights and I’m getting 12 v out of it

IMG_2836.jpeg

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4 hours ago, TheDucks said:

Boy o boy is the wording on JP5 messed up (all Pixie models).

@Lucas P I now assume this is a complete LOR RTG 12V controller package? (you never  really answered any of my questions in post 2)

I got the assembled package without connectors or lights. 

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3 minutes ago, Lucas P said:

I got the assembled package without connectors or lights. 

Where did you buy your lights?  LOR or from another vendor?

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I bet the main issue is that these pixels are dumb. The only others I have are bullet pixels and they might be smart but I’ll have to dig them out

 

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Just now, Lucas P said:

I bet the main issue is that these pixels are dumb. The only others I have are bullet pixels and they might be smart but I’ll have to dig them out

 

You have a Cosmic Color Bulb in the picture. I don't recall a Dumb set of those being sold, especially not in the last 3-4 years.
Not sure what you are using for a connector there, but do yourself a favor and get some LOR Dangles to go on that controller.

 

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8 minutes ago, Don said:

You have a Cosmic Color Bulb in the picture. I don't recall a Dumb set of those being sold, especially not in the last 3-4 years.
Not sure what you are using for a connector there, but do yourself a favor and get some LOR Dangles to go on that controller.

 

Ill order some. Luckily, they don't cost a fortune. 

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3 hours ago, Lucas P said:

In all I’ve tried everything and sent already had to send it back one time. The connecter is wired correctly to the controller and lights and I’m getting 12 v out of it

IMG_2836.jpeg

That connector is not seated. There should be NO threads visible  when connections is done. (the O ring inside is also the seal (usually the dongle end is outside the case )

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3 hours ago, Lucas P said:

I got the assembled package without connectors or lights. 

The Colors are strange (those are common AC cord colors). The only LOR lights I have are Dumb Floods, they use 4 wires (R,G,B,Bk). The dangles are about 2' (never seen one that short)

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3 hours ago, Lucas P said:

Direct from lor

Dumb have 4 wires. As long as I have been doing LOR, the only DUMB nodes were 10W floods (I have 16)

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Double check the direction of your pixels as you may have them connected backwards as pixels are directional. In the picture you have the male pigtail connected to the controller and screwed in to the female connector of the lights. I know all my controllers are opposite of yours and have the female (spinning part) connected to the controller and screwed in to the male connector on the lights. You should have an arrow printed on the wire or you can take the bottom cap off one of the bulbs to see an arrow which show the data flow direction.

Edited by Mr. P
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4 hours ago, Lucas P said:

I bet the main issue is that these pixels are dumb

Nope.  Notice that they are three wire.  Dumb RGB are four wire.

Also, why on earth did you cut the wires so short between the waterproof connector and the little green connector that plugs onto the Pixie?  That will make it far harder to get everything to mechanically fit with 16 of those in close quarters.

 

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