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Communication problems


Joe D
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I bought 2 new controllers this past season and just got done setting up and tested. My 1st controller works fine but the second doesn't. The status light will go steady then flash for a bit then go steady ect.. I tried replacing the cat cables and the same happens. I noticed the plug where the cat cable goes from the 1st controller to the second seems loose and is lifted slightly then the other ones. Couls this be my problem?

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Joe D wrote:

I noticed the plug where the cat cable goes from the 1st controller to the second seems loose and is lifted slightly then the other ones. Couls this be my problem?

Thats what mine looked like when it was broke, talked to LOR and they sent me a new connector.

Mine broke when a kid tripped on the Cat5 wire laying on the ground. Now I have the cables secured to the controllers with plenty of strain relief.

Bill
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Thanks for the reply ;) Was the connector soldered in? ow did you make the repair?



Thanks Bill

Joe

Gremler wrote:

Joe D wrote:
I noticed the plug where the cat cable goes from the 1st controller to the second seems loose and is lifted slightly then the other ones. Couls this be my problem?

Thats what mine looked like when it was broke, talked to LOR and they sent me a new connector.

Mine broke when a kid tripped on the Cat5 wire laying on the ground. Now I have the cables secured to the controllers with plenty of strain relief.

Bill
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yep, have to desolder and then resolder. if it is a bad connector and if possible you can just put that controller at the end of the line.

Also you may just take a flashlight and look inside at the center to contacts, make sure they are sprung up and not corroded.

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Richard Hamilton

I thought this might be a good place to mention some observations about those cat5 sockets.

They can be very easily damaged. It looks to me like they are the type that simply solder into the board without any mechanical support. Hopefully in the future if a board update gets into LOR's plan, it would be good to use the type of cat5 socket that has a mechanical support on the sides that solders into larger holes on the board. Those are REALLY rugged. Or perhaps a bulkhead mounted connector on the bottom of the box so it doesn't have to be opened for equipment setup or takedown.

You need to be especially careful of booted cat-5 cables. Don't use them. Booted cables often have smaller release levers that won't extend far beyond the edge of the socket and it makes them extremely hard to grip and release the cable from the socket. If you absolutely must use booted cat-5 cables, cut off the lip around the boot so it will be easier to press the release lever in.

On the linker, you should not use them at all because the boot in combination with the strain relief is probably going to be too tall to close the linker cover without putting a lot of stress on the connector and board. I think LOR even says somewhere in the manual (if I remember properly) to not use booted cables, yet interesting we got several of them with the last order and they were almost impossible to get out of the socket after being inserted.

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The RJ45 board mounted connectors in the Kits have legs that SNAP into holes in the board. I know this is not like Richard is talking about, however it is more than just allowing the solder on the pins holding the socket in place.

There have been several posts reflecting problems with the RJ45 sockets not being secure. This might be a quality issue that LOR needs to look into with the assembled units.

Chuck

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Hello Guys,



I was able to switch the controllers around and placed the damaged one at the end and didn't need the damaged port. I will see what LOR can do for me, but may be after the lighting season. Thanks to Bill for the help. Wish you all a Happy Holiday season and Happy Lighting to you all :)



Thanks

Joe

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  • 2 years later...

I have what I believe is a similar problem to that described in the above posts. I have two boxes, each with one Cat5 socket pulled loose from the board on one side. I could put one at the end of the line, but I need the other one. My dilemma is that I have zero skills with soldering. I'd be afraid I'd ruin the entire unit if I tried. Will LOR repair the unit(s) for me? And, if so, can someone tell me where to send. Any help is appreciated.

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Richard Hamilton wrote:

I thought this might be a good place to mention some observations about those cat5 sockets.

They can be very easily damaged. It looks to me like they are the type that simply solder into the board without any mechanical support. Hopefully in the future if a board update gets into LOR's plan, it would be good to use the type of cat5 socket that has a mechanical support on the sides that solders into larger holes on the board. Those are REALLY rugged. Or perhaps a bulkhead mounted connector on the bottom of the box so it doesn't have to be opened for equipment setup or takedown.

You need to be especially careful of booted cat-5 cables. Don't use them. Booted cables often have smaller release levers that won't extend far beyond the edge of the socket and it makes them extremely hard to grip and release the cable from the socket. If you absolutely must use booted cat-5 cables, cut off the lip around the boot so it will be easier to press the release lever in.

On the linker, you should not use them at all because the boot in combination with the strain relief is probably going to be too tall to close the linker cover without putting a lot of stress on the connector and board. I think LOR even says somewhere in the manual (if I remember properly) to not use booted cables, yet interesting we got several of them with the last order and they were almost impossible to get out of the socket after being inserted.


Don't have any ELL's, maybe one day, but I did use "booted" cat5 cable last year in all 5 of my CTB16PC controllers and DC-MP3 Showtime Director, didn't need to cut away the boot or anything else.

I never had a single issue plugging them in, or removing them when it came time to take everything down after the holiday season. And I did move the controllers around from Halloween to new locations for Christmas, again, no problems pressing the clip and removing the booted Cat5 I purchased from monoprice.com at all and replugging them.
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This has been addressed on the new boards, the cat5 connector is turned 180 degrees out so the soldered end is facing up. One thing I did to minimize this problem was use these connectors in the controller box, it gives a little extra support for the "trip" factor.


Attached files RJ45-outdoor.pdf

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bisquit476 wrote:

This has been addressed on the new boards, the cat5 connector is turned 180 degrees out so the soldered end is facing up. One thing I did to minimize this problem was use these connectors in the controller box, it gives a little extra support for the "trip" factor.


Those weatherproof connections look pretty good. May have to see about ordering some of those and modify my LOR boxes for them as well. Then no need to open the controller box for anything but a reset if needed.

Excellent idea and suggestion Bisquit!
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  • 2 months later...
Richard Hamilton

bisquit476 wrote:

This has been addressed on the new boards, the cat5 connector is turned 180 degrees out so the soldered end is facing up. One thing I did to minimize this problem was use these connectors in the controller box, it gives a little extra support for the "trip" factor.


Gee, this is exactly what I have been searcing to find (and for things other than LOR as well). Thanks for the post.
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I ordered them last year from here,
http://www.sparcotech.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=RJ45-ECS
But if this place gets them in stock again there only 1.00 each!
https://www.roc-noc.com/product.php?productid=78

( the second one is feed through, not the same for strain relieve...)

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