Unused Nodes with Props ~ Suggestions for use?

[Orville]

Title doesn't say much about what I'm thinking about, but here goes.

 

I purchased 8 of the Holiday Coro Tombstones, Tombstones #2,#3,#4,#5, and #6(I DID NOT buy H.C. Tombstone #1 which only uses 21 nodes), a couple of these are duplicated.  As these all use 22 nodes per tombstone, using 2-100 count square node strands in them, I will have 4 unused nodes between Tombstone #1 and #2, #2 and #3, #3 and #4 on one port, 12 unused nodes (Pixie16), on the 2nd port, same thing, 4 unused nodes between Tombstone #5 and #6, #6 and #7, and #7 and #8, that's 24 unused nodes in total.  But as stated, these are between 3 sets of tombstones on 2 ports.

Instead of just leaving these nodes lying on the ground unused, what would you use them for?

Are there any small props, (spacing of the nodes is 6-inches), that could be used with each node?  Like some small Jack-O'-Lanterns or Skulls that could be lit with just a single node?   Looking for some creative ideas on how to utilize nodes that would otherwise just remain dark, on the ground, between the tombstones.

Just curious to see if anyone does anything with the excess nodes that aren't used in the actual prop.

Thanks for sharing any ideas.

[k6ccc]

If it were me, I would cut the strings and solder in wire to span the gap between each tombstone.  That would leave 12 unused pixels at the end of each string which would be removed and stored as spares.  Make sure to mark the spares so you know which prop they are spares for.  That way you will have matching spares for WHEN (not IF) a few pixels die.

You'll have to decide if you can do that with your poor eyesight.

 

[TheDucks]

I was going Huh! (I have 4 RIP) until I checked their store. Somehow I missed seeing those :(

SPARES.  (At the end only unless you can cut and splice) . To be honest, I would break the set apart every 2 using the HC/x-connect pigtails, just to make handling easy.

Cut off, LABEL as to which string they came from (in case you are sensitive to color shift) as well as Voltage and node current (low vs High. Mixing could have some really dif intensity issues)

I do not suggest leaving them in place (powered). They do draw power and age.

?? Why squares. They were designed for bullets. (FWIW I did my first snowflake with 72 squares. a real PITA in some places.  All now have bullets)

 

[Orville]

On 3/22/2023 at 11:40 AM, TheDucks said:

I was going Huh! (I have 4 RIP) until I checked their store. Somehow I missed seeing those :(

SPARES.  (At the end only unless you can cut and splice) . To be honest, I would break the set apart every 2 using the HC/x-connect pigtails, just to make handling easy.

Cut off, LABEL as to which string they came from (in case you are sensitive to color shift) as well as Voltage and node current (low vs High. Mixing could have some really dif intensity issues)

I do not suggest leaving them in place (powered). They do draw power and age.

?? Why squares. They were designed for bullets. (FWIW I did my first snowflake with 72 squares. a real PITA in some places.  All now have bullets)

 

Why squares, because I have 2 sets of 100 count square node strings and did not want to buy bullet nodes, so I am using what I have.  As for cutting and splicing, nope, that's not going to happen, I can not focus in on doing that, wiring is too small, so leaving everything intact.  It's why I asked for suggestions on what I might be able to use them for, as in small single lighted props.  Otherwise, they'll just be left dark and unused, I already have my sequences set up for them as 22 nodes-4unused-22nodes-4unused-22nodes-4unused-22 nodes, so the last tombstone ends at node 100.  Already have all this set-up in the RGB channel setup in the SE.  As I have everything already set and programmed for the tombstones, leaving the 4 nodes between each one unused currently, but still in place, just in case I figured out, or found something applicable to use them for.

So that's why I am using square nodes instead of bullet nodes, I have bullet nodes, plenty of them, but they are 5 volt, and I don't plan on using any of them in my displays, only 12 volt RGB smart strands only on the Pixie16.  So I can cut out the 5 older CCB100D 5V controllers and cut back on all the cat5 runs since I can use extender cables to the 12V RGB strands.  Will make putting my displays up a lot simpler and easier, and not have to worry about cat5 cables crossing or trying to route cat5 cables around and away from power cords any longer.

 

If I could see well enough, I may have attempted to go the cut, splice and solder route, but those days are LONG gone for me now.  Just can't do it any longer, I tried and made a total disaster of the one RGB strand I attempted this on, fortunately it was an old strand with a lot of dead nodes, so I did give it a go, just can't do it any longer.  Wish I could, but as stated, those soldering and splicing days are long gone for me.

 

 

[Orville]

On 3/22/2023 at 11:40 AM, TheDucks said:

I was going Huh! (I have 4 RIP) until I checked their store. Somehow I missed seeing those :(

SPARES.  (At the end only unless you can cut and splice) . To be honest, I would break the set apart every 2 using the HC/x-connect pigtails, just to make handling easy.

Cut off, LABEL as to which string they came from (in case you are sensitive to color shift) as well as Voltage and node current (low vs High. Mixing could have some really dif intensity issues)

I do not suggest leaving them in place (powered). They do draw power and age.

?? Why squares. They were designed for bullets. (FWIW I did my first snowflake with 72 squares. a real PITA in some places.  All now have bullets)

 

I have 3 of their Snowflakes, all use the square nodes, not a single issue using them.  If I had used bullets, then I wouldn't have been able to mount them directly to my house outside wall, as the bullets would have stuck out too far in the back.  I use the flat, square nodes, and they have worked out perfectly in the H.C. Snowflakes, the Boscoyo Chrom-Cross, and I'm sure they will also work out perfectly fine in the H.C. Tombstones (That should be arriving today Sun. 3/26/2023)

 

Using the flat square nodes has made it much easier for me to insert the nodes, as well as handle the props, along with NOT having to build a heavier frame (if required) to mount them.  I'll be using the H.C. metal ground stakes for their tombstones, just don't see a need for a wood frame behind these tombstones.  Perhaps if I need to weigh them down a wee bit, I may bolt a piece of wood to the back or near the bottom of them for that purpose.  But I think the metal stakes H.C. sells for this purpose will do the job without any further framework or weight to hold them in place.   But I'll know more on that once I get them, get the lights in and the stakes before I make my final call on that option of weighting them down.

[Jimehc]

The metal rods supplied are not strong enough against the wind to prevent the prop from bending over.. I have had to drive a rod behind the prop to provide additional wind support..

[Orville]

3 minutes ago, Jimehc said:

The metal rods supplied are not strong enough against the wind to prevent the prop from bending over.. I have had to drive a rod behind the prop to provide additional wind support..

Thanks for the info, Jimehc.   When mine get here, I plan on doing some "wind testing" to see how these would hold up, using 3 stakes per tombstone. As that is what I have coming with them.  These may be a bit flimsier than the smaller styrofoam tombstones I've purchased and used in the past, and I only used wire coat hangers (heavy wire hangers) cut down and inserted into those styrofoam types that I had added lights too.   So I'll be checking these out thoroughly before putting them into relevant use in my new Halloween Display for this year.

 

I have some old cut down, small wooden stakes that I may screw to the back of each tombstone to give them more support.  From what you state, sounds like I may have to do just that to keep them erect in windy conditions.

[Jimehc]

Tomb Stone in 10mm outdoor rated plastic - Mounting holes for rebar or mini-Tee Stakes (one, two or three)

If prop has vertical flutes - then you can use 1/4-5/16" rod driven into ground... (RGB Prop does not comes with ground Rods)

[Orville]

4 hours ago, Jimehc said:

Tomb Stone in 10mm outdoor rated plastic - Mounting holes for rebar or mini-Tee Stakes (one, two or three)

If prop has vertical flutes - then you can use 1/4-5/16" rod driven into ground... (RGB Prop does not comes with ground Rods)

I know, stakes are (and were) purchased separately.  I have 24 of their stakes coming with the tombstones, 8 tombstones x 3 stakes per stone = 24 stakes.  And as far as I know from reading on their site, the stakes should be able to either be zip tied on the back, or inserted up through the bottom of the tombstones.   Will know more when they finally get here so I can check them out to see what and how I'll need to mount and secure them in place when the time comes for setting them up in October.

 

Omce I get them, get the nodes installed, I'll know more on how to proceed with their placement and securing them in their place in the cemetery scene.

[TheDucks]

@ Orville  My RIP came with the wire (stakes) that slide into the flutes of the coro.  The RIP ones need 2x2 stiffeners (lots of flat area.

I ended up ditching the Wires (gets really windy here) and drilled 7/16 holes into the bottom end of the 2x2 and use 3/8 rebar  from the depot(I cut a 3' piece in half for 18". 1'  is a standard, but sandy soil and wind 🙄 ). Even with that, you see flex.

[Orville]

Thanks folks.  Well, FedEx must have "misplaced" my package or something, they were supposed to have been here today (Sun. 3/26/2023 by end of day, they stated between 9:50am-1:50pm), but seems they got misplaced or something in Ocala, FL, as they've been there for over 28+ hours and haven't moved.  Ocala is only a 1-1/2-hour drive from Orlando, usually not more than 2 with heavy traffic, so they should have been here already, now says they'll be here Monday 3/27/2023, but they still have not moved out of Ocala, so that makes me think they've misplaced them somewhere.  I hope I do get them tomorrow, had some nice windy conditions Sunday I could have tested them out in, don't know if I'll have those same winds Monday.   Was looking forward to getting the nodes in and testing them, sure hope they show up tomorrow!

[Orville]

10 hours ago, TheDucks said:

@ Orville  My RIP came with the wire (stakes) that slide into the flutes of the coro.  The RIP ones need 2x2 stiffeners (lots of flat area.

I ended up ditching the Wires (gets really windy here) and drilled 7/16 holes into the bottom end of the 2x2 and use 3/8 rebar  from the depot(I cut a 3' piece in half for 18". 1'  is a standard, but sandy soil and wind 🙄 ). Even with that, you see flex.

Forgot to mention, the stakes I am getting are 24" Galvanized Steel.  So I don't know if that is the same thing you received with your RIP headstones, as these sounded a lot sturdier than your standard flimsier wire ground stakes.

[Jimehc]

they are 9 Gauge Galvanized Steel (1/8 inch - 3mm) at best

same gauge you find in typicality advertising yard signs

[TheDucks]

7 hours ago, Orville said:

Forgot to mention, the stakes I am getting are 24" Galvanized Steel.  So I don't know if that is the same thing you received with your RIP headstones, as these sounded a lot sturdier than your standard flimsier wire ground stakes.

Sound the same. [strike]I believe these are the same type used by insulation installers to hold the bats up under floors (when doing them from basements). [/strike] those are only 14-12ga

We just don't need bundles of 100, so HC selling just what you need is a deal.

[Orville]

48 minutes ago, TheDucks said:

Sound the same. [strike]I believe these are the same type used by insulation installers to hold the bats up under floors (when doing them from basements). [/strike] those are only 14-12ga

We just don't need bundles of 100, so HC selling just what you need is a deal.

Hmm, interesting, as the photo of them looks a bit sturdier than any yard sign stake I've ever seen, they look a lot thicker too.  Says they're on the FedEx truck for delivery, I'll know for sure once I see the actual stake in my hand.  I know photo's can be a bit deceiving from what the camera sees and what the actual item may be when seen and handled in person.

But from their p[photo, they looked as sturdy and strong as some Shepard's hooks I purchased for some yard decor quite a few years back, they look to be the same thickness and  just as sturdy, again, photo may be a bit deceiving.  As soon as I have them will report back on if they are any different or like you guys have described.   I'm very curious now to know exactly how good these may or may not be.

[Orville]

Finally got my tombstones, but had to send in a question on one of them, as I think it was cut incorrectly (coro inserted in cutting machine incorrectly).

As for the tombstones, they are nice and thick, I put one over my need and tried to bend it in two with enough pressure like a harsh wind, it barely wavered, it bent slightly, but I didn't force it.  I inserted the galvanized metal stakes up through the coro from the bottom and set them up in my yard (no lights yet) to see how they would hold up under the winds we're having today,  They never moved, stood in place where I put them.  The stakes are a much heavier type than you get with the old styrofoam retail store tombstones, which would break apart in moderate to high winds.  The stakes are long enough to go up into the sides of each tombstone, I only used two stakes for my testing today, and still have plenty left over for pressing the tombstone in the ground and keeping it there.   These stakes are nowhere near flimsy, they are just as sturdy as I thought they would be, and I'm very happy with them!

 

Of course, when the lights (RGB nodes) are added, this will also increase the weight of the tombstone and help to keep it in its place in the cemetery.

Once I know the answer about the bat tombstone from H.C., it was cut with the flutes open along the sides and the top/bottom sealed, so no way to insert the stakes into it, once I know if this is how it is or is not supposed to be cut, then I'll know more what to do with it.  Unlike all the others I received that were open (flutes) at the bottom and top with sides closed in, making it easier to insert the stakes up inside them.  I'll be adding the nodes to the first set of 4, but will wait for the second set of 4 due to the bat tombstone issue I encountered.

All in all, these tombstones are a perfect addition to a cemetery scene.

[TheDucks]

Tnx for the report.

[Orville]

On 3/27/2023 at 6:58 PM, TheDucks said:

Tnx for the report.

Stupid spell correction changed "knee" to "need" in my report about the stakes and tombstones.  Sometimes I think these spell correctors make some real blunders by changing a word or words in a sentence that it thinks doesn't belong there.

I also got the answer to the bat tombstone that "I thought" was cut incorrectly, apparently they will cut the tombstones both ways, it would be much better if they were all standardized in how they are cut, so the flutes are VERTICAL and never horizontal, but the answer I was given is that they cut them both ways and the stakes are meant to be zip tied to the back of the tombstones.  Not the way I prefer to "stake" my tombstones, I much rather prefer the stakes are inserted up through the bottom and are internal to the tombstone.  I have found when the stakes are inside the tombstones, they just tend to give the tombstone a bit more sturdiness and stability over being tied to the back, plus I'm not fond of using zip ties for something that's going to be outside for any long duration.  Plus, I tend to overtighten the zip ties because they don't hold the stake as securely, and I tend to cause some damage to the prop when doing it that way, so I prefer inserting them internally into the tombstone and adding some glue or sealant to keep them from shifting when pushing the tombstone in the ground.  I also don't like the stakes being visible either, if I could do it, I'd make a cover for the tombstone to hide the lights and make the tombstones look closer to their real counterparts.   But it is what it is.

 

So I'm not sure if I'll use the bat tombstone or not, still thinking about how I want to stake it down, and whether I want to add the stakes (zip tied) or glued to the back of it before installing the lights in it.   I'll eventually come up with something, I guess, that'll satisfy me for what I want to do.

 

[TheDucks]

@orville

I got a $20 zip tie gun at Amazon, Other than the setting number is hard to read, it seems to do the same job as the $150 Panduit model.

I use Black ties when going for longevity in sunny locations (where it has tension).  (I use various small color ties to mark similar cables in a bundle. Why is the blu not lighting??)

 

[Orville]

1 hour ago, TheDucks said:

@orville

I got a $20 zip tie gun at Amazon, Other than the setting number is hard to read, it seems to do the same job as the $150 Panduit model.

I use Black ties when going for longevity in sunny locations (where it has tension).  (I use various small color ties to mark similar cables in a bundle. Why is the blu not lighting??)

 

Got one of those Cheap Zip guns too, and, yes, I still have messed up a few things with it. LOL 

I also use black zip ties (even though the tombstones are white) for long term sun exposure.  I rarely use white zip ties outside, except for an emergency repair, or I just happen to run out of black zip ties while waiting for more to come in.

Not sure what the reference to Blu not working is.  All nodes on both strands are 100% working.