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CTB16PC v1 Ch 1-8 dead


ftrevor

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8 minutes ago, ftrevor said:

I had not tried that yet.  I will pull it out of the "to be fixed" box and give it a go.  Thanks for the idea.

I might suspect an OPTO or TRIAC if it was a single channel.

1-8 almost always will be a Power In issue (1 bank dead)

Do you have 1 or 2 power IN cords?

for a single cord, there are 2 Faston jumpers (a short white and a longer Black.) that must be in place. Note in this configuration, Bank 1 fused is not used. (bank 2 fuses both)  

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3 hours ago, ftrevor said:

I had not tried that yet.  I will pull it out of the "to be fixed" box and give it a go.  Thanks for the idea.

Keep us posted.. Id be happy to help continue troubleshooting it if needed, but hopeful this is your answer and maybe you can get a new one from the help desk. 🙂

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3 hours ago, TheDucks said:

I might suspect an OPTO or TRIAC if it was a single channel.

1-8 almost always will be a Power In issue (1 bank dead)

Do you have 1 or 2 power IN cords?

for a single cord, there are 2 Faston jumpers (a short white and a longer Black.) that must be in place. Note in this configuration, Bank 1 fused is not used. (bank 2 fuses both)  

I back tracked the post here, he mentioned having 2 cords.. Although.. Your neutral thing is something to look at still.. I wonder how he checked it.. because 1 could have continuity with a meter and it still have a bad joint to the board. Who's to say he didn't blow a trace off the board? I would hope this would be obvious if it is on a bench outside of the heatsinks,ect. Stranger things have happened. 

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9 minutes ago, lightningrod4life said:

I back tracked the post here, he mentioned having 2 cords.. Although.. Your neutral thing is something to look at still.. I wonder how he checked it.. because 1 could have continuity with a meter and it still have a bad joint to the board. Who's to say he didn't blow a trace off the board? I would hope this would be obvious if it is on a bench outside of the heatsinks,ect. Stranger things have happened. 

Those jumpers should NOT either be in place when 2 cords are used. Plugging 1 cord into a mis-wired outlet could make the other plug HOT or blow a trace if the other were plugged into a proper polarity outlet.  IMHO 2 cords were only needed for all Incan (and high wattage bulbs. eg 8 150W floods). I converted all my AC controllers to a single cord (I made the 2 jumpers out of 16Ga wire stolen from an old, damaged extension cord. )

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1 hour ago, TheDucks said:

Those jumpers should NOT either be in place when 2 cords are used. Plugging 1 cord into a mis-wired outlet could make the other plug HOT or blow a trace if the other were plugged into a proper polarity outlet.  IMHO 2 cords were only needed for all Incan (and high wattage bulbs. eg 8 150W floods). I converted all my AC controllers to a single cord (I made the 2 jumpers out of 16Ga wire stolen from an old, damaged extension cord. )

I agree, although all of mine still have the second cord because they were originally purchased and put into circulation when LEDs were just hitting the market so a lot of Incads were still being used on the channels. A very large portion of my display personally is now LED so 2 cords for higher power output is not necessary, but I've had to many times learn not to fix what isn't broken, so I just leave the cords as is. It will be interesting to see if he is able to report back to us sooner rather than later to see if he can make any headway on getting this unit functioning properly again.  I also wonder how he's testing it. Sounded like he might have a test sequence he is running from the sequencer? which is possible to have miss assigned channels... been there done that way too many times. I personally would prefer the hardware utility for a controller-by-controller check that all outputs are firing properly. 

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