CTB16PC Channels 1-8 Not Working

[dclark6623]

I purchased two CTB16PC Kits (Already Soldered) in March of this year. I tested in the house and everything worked fine. After putting up my display, Channels 1-8 on unit 2 have no voltage. I have tested the fuse and it is good. I have tested the power cord and its good. What else could it be? Please help.

[Guest wbottomley]

dclark6623 wrote:

I purchased two CTB16PC Kits (Already Soldered) in March of this year. I tested in the house and everything worked fine. After putting up my display, Channels 1-8 on unit 2 have no voltage. I have tested the fuse and it is good. I have tested the power cord and its good. What else could it be? Please help.

Same here. I'm brainstorming to see what the problem is.

I only use one power cord, so the jumper from each side of the board could be bad.

[Dr. Jones]

I have had this problem before. It ended up being one of the IC chips.

Your best bet would be to contact LOR directly for support : Support@lightorama.com

[dclark6623]

Thanks. I have contacted LOR. Hopefully they will respond tomorrow. I fogot to mention that I have the boards with two power cords.

[Tom B.]

Same problem ... tested each channel before installing it outside. Then when I sent power to all channels at the same time ... no power is getting to the lights.

I bought the version of PC where all I had to do was install the cords and put the board in the box.

... The 2nd box is working fine.

T.


Here's exact Detail:

1) LED Blinking with power

2) Plugged in 100 ft Cat5 cable ... didn't find boxes

3) Changed to 50 ft new Cat5 cable ... boxes were found (w/Hardware utility)

4) Selected 1 unit to test. Sent an ON command to ALL channels. Nothing happened.

5) Selected 2nd unit (linked to Unit 1 w/6 ft Cat5 Cable)

6) 2nd Unit came on as instructed ... same command

7) Check Unit 1 ... LED was now NOT blinking

8) Unplugged and then replugged it in ... still no change

[Guest wbottomley]

Ok... found my problem.

I've always used the delux version boards. So when you jump one side to the other, the fuse on channels 1-8 would be removed.

Well... I did the same thing on the pc boards and lo' and behold. This dummy figured out that you can't do that.

Replaced fuses and all is well.

[dclark6623]

I contacted LOR and they sent me a new board. I purchased the kits also and didn't do the soldering. It has to be a problem with the board. I am very pleased with their response and would recommend LOR to anyone.

Thanks for the input.

[Tom B.]

My problem turned out to be much more basic ... I had a short in a homemade extension cord ... the fuse protected the board ... and after replacement of the fuse, all is fine.

Sorry, I didn't get back here sooner ... been busy putting up lights ... huh! go figure ...

Happy Thanksgiving All,

T.

[crazyred]

I am having the exact same issue with 4 new boards. All soldered by factory then wiring done by myself.

Have checked everything and all checks OK, just no power out on channels 1 thru 8.

Very frustrated at the moment. Never had an issue with any of the previous controllers over the years.

Thoughts??



~Bill

[dclark6623]

I would contact LOR. They shipped a new board to me.

Do you have the single or double power cord? I had the double power cord. Test from the left side of the left fuse to the left neutral. Do the same on the right side. If you don't have voltage on the left check, you probably have the same problem that I had.

[crazyred]

Sounds like we do/did. Now the boards just short out if I plug in the left side. Right side works fine.

When you mean test, plug in the power and then test?

~Bill

[dclark6623]

Test with a volt meter and see if you have voltage from the fuse to the neutral. Be careful.

[dclark6623]

You should have 120 volts when testing from the fuse to the neutral. LOR will also tell you to test the fuse and GFI that you are connected to.

[crazyred]

I was beating my head for hours trying to figure this thing out. I was thinking the same as you and Jogn at LOR. How could 3 out of 4 boards all have the exact same problem on the same side of the board. Well, now here is the part where I really feel like a donkey. I checked the extension cords and found one (1) bad cord to each of the bad boards. All of them to the left side. What bad luck huh.:shock: Replaced the extension cords and now there is power out on the left sides.

BUT, now there is a new problem. I have one (1) channel on each of the previously really nothing wrong boards that turns on the second you plug the main power on and wont turn off until you unplug the board. The channel will also not do anything during a sequence except remain on. After reading up on the posting, I think it is a bad Triad (whatever that is?)?

Unfortunately, I may have caused this with the bad extension cords. Do not know. Fuses never blew, just an occasional GFI pop.

So the Light-O-Rama reputation remains in tact. Great product as long as I am not hooking it up!! LOL

Any Suggestions?? Can "Triads" be replaced?

Thanks for the assistance,

~Bill

[Dr. Jones]

yes triacs can be replaced. just a little soldering is required

The triac is the component that is mounted to the heatsink. It is what controls the dimming of the 120v from a control voltage. When a channel stays on, whether at full or some other %, it is a good indicator of a blown triac. A short in extension cord or in the lights can cause the triac to fail.

also try resetting the board - http://lightorama.mywowbb.com/view_topic.php?id=17532&forum_id=25

See Jeff's instructions