Sizzler Posted November 28, 2021 Share Posted November 28, 2021 Just got a new Pixie 8 like a week ago, and wasn't going to use this year, but had a few hours to mess around, so decided to set it up. I'm assuming that i don't need the jumpers? I hooked up power and no led lights up?, but the center chip gets hot. Should there be a led lit when powered? I have 6 other lor boards and im pretty sure they all have a led lit whether blinking or solid. The HU don't find it, so before i go further, want to may sure it can handle 12volts? And secondly should there be a led lit when powered on for first time? thanks Don Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k6ccc Posted November 28, 2021 Share Posted November 28, 2021 That does not sound right. Nothing should be getting hot, and I assume that there should be at least a status LED. Are you sure you got the power polarity right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheDucks Posted November 28, 2021 Share Posted November 28, 2021 Pixie8 has 2 power inputs The right one also powers the board logic. And nothing gets hot on mine in standby Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibblejr Posted November 28, 2021 Share Posted November 28, 2021 If you built it and got the polarity wrong your user name may be the demise of the new controller. If you purchased it new then this will need to be returned for repair/ replacement. There is a difference between a warm and hot chip. However there should be a status light. The loss of the light may be what is causing the chip to get hot. I have my beta pixie16 in my office. It ha been running since 2017 minus some power outages ect. I can touch anything on the board and hold my finger on it until I get tired. Barely warm. If it is a new controller I would open a HD ticket. JR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheDucks Posted November 28, 2021 Share Posted November 28, 2021 By 'built it yourself', we are talking about you bought a factory assembled board, added everything else? (AFAIK only AC controllers are available in true (Heath)kit form ) Gotta ask! If you powered a ( loose or unmounted) board, you were absolutely sure that the back side was not contacting metal. Seen metal standoffs or screw heads touch were they shouldn't (not enough guard zone) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sizzler Posted November 28, 2021 Author Share Posted November 28, 2021 13 hours ago, TheDucks said: Pixie8 has 2 power inputs The right one also powers the board logic. And nothing gets hot on mine in standby Thanks for info on which side is for logic part. I have both inputs jumped to same power source. Which would be the final way also, as the board is only to do a few 1 and half meter long ws2811 strips I have for step lights. I've been running a cmb24d on for years with dumb rgb strips. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sizzler Posted November 28, 2021 Author Share Posted November 28, 2021 (edited) 10 hours ago, dibblejr said: If you built it and got the polarity wrong your user name may be the demise of the new controller. If you purchased it new then this will need to be returned for repair/ replacement. There is a difference between a warm and hot chip. However there should be a status light. The loss of the light may be what is causing the chip to get hot. I have my beta pixie16 in my office. It ha been running since 2017 minus some power outages ect. I can touch anything on the board and hold my finger on it until I get tired. Barely warm. If it is a new controller I would open a HD ticket. JR What is meant by built? I didn't assemble the electronics, but I didn't buy it packages with a ps and enclosure. Either way I deal with million dollar equipment on a daily basis and would never reverse polarity..lol Edited November 28, 2021 by Sizzler Spell check boo boo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheDucks Posted November 28, 2021 Share Posted November 28, 2021 3 minutes ago, Sizzler said: Thanks for info on which side is for logic part. I have both inputs jumped to same power source. Which would be the final way also, as the board is only to do a few 1 and half meter long ws2811 strips I have for step lights. I've been running a cmb24d on for years with dumb rgb strips. There is a Label by the power conn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheDucks Posted November 28, 2021 Share Posted November 28, 2021 1 minute ago, Sizzler said: What is meant by built? I didn't assemble the electronics, but I didn't buy it packages with a ps and enclosure. Either way I deal with million dollar equipment on a daily basis and would need reverse polarity..lol Measure the voltages. The board will take 30VDC (your strings won't). Your PSU might have gone wild. Also check that a stray screw or nut is not there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sizzler Posted November 28, 2021 Author Share Posted November 28, 2021 6 hours ago, TheDucks said: By 'built it yourself', we are talking about you bought a factory assembled board, added everything else? (AFAIK only AC controllers are available in true (Heath)kit form ) Gotta ask! If you powered a ( loose or unmounted) board, you were absolutely sure that the back side was not contacting metal. Seen metal standoffs or screw heads touch were they shouldn't (not enough guard zone) The board is not mounted, but I know enough not to place it on anything metal.lol even an unpowered board can get problems.. I pretty much left it on top of its shipping box and bubble wrap. Only thing I hooked up besides power is one spi port to a ray wu connector, and a small cat6 jumper to an lor USB to rs485 adaptor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheDucks Posted November 28, 2021 Share Posted November 28, 2021 2 minutes ago, Sizzler said: The board is not mounted, but I know enough not to place it on anything metal.lol even an unpowered board can get problems.. I pretty much left it on top of its shipping box and bubble wrap. Only thing I hooked up besides power is one spi port to a ray wu connector, and a small cat6 jumper to an lor USB to rs485 adaptor. I had to ask. We know about assume :/ Try without the CAT6 (BTW CAT6 is too stif and leads to damaged connectors. Use CAT5 or better yet, LOR dongles) There is Power (~9V) on pins 3+6, You can also pull JP 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sizzler Posted November 28, 2021 Author Share Posted November 28, 2021 7 minutes ago, TheDucks said: There is a Label by the power conn Mine just shows the positives on outer, and negs on inners, and I assume that right side would do right and left the left, and negs probably have continuity? Mine doesn't state which powers the pc board. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheDucks Posted November 28, 2021 Share Posted November 28, 2021 2 minutes ago, Sizzler said: Mine just shows the positives on outer, and negs on inners, and I assume that right side would do right and left the left, and negs probably have continuity? Mine doesn't state which powers the pc board. 🤨You are correct, (the book shows arrows), I was thinking about my CMB24's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sizzler Posted November 28, 2021 Author Share Posted November 28, 2021 1 minute ago, TheDucks said: I had to ask. We know about assume :/ Try without the CAT6 (BTW CAT6 is too stif and leads to damaged connectors. Use CAT5 or better yet, LOR dongles) There is Power (~9V) on pins 3+6, You can also pull JP 2 I tried it with just power, lol I didn't put any of the jumpers on, and thinking maybe it needs one or both that were included? After browsing the instructions it didn't seem as i needed them to set it up? I believe one was to force it into a mode, and another was for the 9v power. Again I didn't read it all fully. I have to find time one night.lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheDucks Posted November 28, 2021 Share Posted November 28, 2021 4 minutes ago, Sizzler said: I tried it with just power, lol I didn't put any of the jumpers on, and thinking maybe it needs one or both that were included? After browsing the instructions it didn't seem as i needed them to set it up? I believe one was to force it into a mode, and another was for the 9v power. Again I didn't read it all fully. I have to find time one night.lol It should run just fine without those extras. You only need the power (JP2) if it powers a director Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now