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Time for me to get some help on some CTB16PC's


toymakr000
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This year I have bought 6 CTB16PC kits. I bought and assembled 2 last year as well.
However this year I have 3 that have issues.


#1 Channel 16 does not turn on(probably a bad solder joint I can't see till I take it to work and look under the big lighted magnifying glass.


#2 Channel 8 does not turn on same issue maybe. Also Ch9 through 16 won't turn on??? I don't know what this could be.Do you?


#3 nothing works. no link light, no comms, and the 5V regulator gets hot fairly quick.
all the components appear to be in correctly. Although I am a very experienced solderer I do screw up once in awhile so I'll recheck everything under the "microscope" I would love any suggestions on where to look though.

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Here are the first things I would double check:

1&2 Double check the orientation of the opto isolator chips. On the white ones I keep catching myself mistaking the fairchild logo for the pin 1 mark....

2B. Double check the orientation of the 16 pin chip for that side of the board, and the solder work on that chip. I don't have the pin numbers on hand, but also check the leads back from that chip to the 18 pin socketed chip. On of those leads, the joint at either end could cause the whole side not to work.

3, pull the com chip, and see if the VR still gets hot... Also check the orientation of the 18 pin chip... (put that in backwards once myself, thankfully it survived)

- Kevin

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Did you get the voltage regulators in the correct location?

There is a 5 volt regulator and a 10 volt regulator.

As I recall the 5 volts is used for the on board electronics. The 10 volts is used to power such things as the 485SC Adpater, the wireless light linkers.

Chuck

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If you have gone through all the toubleshooting steps and checked for solder bridging or shorts and missing solder joints, then I don't have much to suggest except maybe take a break, enjoy a cold home brew, and then go back and look for reversed components and solder joints again. I have looked and looked and misssed them. I assembled 10 PC boards this year and made several minor assembly mistakes that were easily repaired. They were not always apparent at first.

Oh yeah, make sure the main controller IC is FULLY seated in the socket. They sometimes feel like they are, but are not. This causes all kinds of wierd things if some of the pins are making good contact and some are not.

If you think you have a bad 5 volt regulator I can send you one. I at least owe you that. Just PM me where you want it sent and I'll get it out in the morning.

Good Luck

Bob

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Well after actually sitting down and thinking about it and doing some component swapping I found the problem and it was simple.... The center pin of the 5 volt regulator was not soldered through it was soldered to the bottom pad and was not contacting the through hole and the top pad. so with a little coaxing I was able to get the solder through and it works beautifully.
I also found the problem on the board that had 1 channel not working. Totally my fault. a bad solder joint that ended up looking a little dry under the magnifying glass.

I do still have a problem on the board that had 9 channels out. I fixed one, it had the same problem as the last board. It still has an entire bank out. I'm still looking into that to check power throughout the board.

2 down 1 to go!!!!!:D

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toymakr000 wrote:

Well after actually sitting down and thinking about it and doing some component swapping I found the problem and it was simple.... The center pin of the 5 volt regulator was not soldered through it was soldered to the bottom pad and was not contacting the through hole and the top pad. so with a little coaxing I was able to get the solder through and it works beautifully.
I also found the problem on the board that had 1 channel not working. Totally my fault. a bad solder joint that ended up looking a little dry under the magnifying glass.

I do still have a problem on the board that had 9 channels out. I fixed one, it had the same problem as the last board. It still has an entire bank out. I'm still looking into that to check power throughout the board.

2 down 1 to go!!!!!:P

Check your resistor networks, are they installed correctly by position and value.
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Gary,

I would recommend that you check the orientation of U5.

After the processor chip for the 9-16 side you have U5, the R18 and R19, then the optos, then triacs. That is about the way the signal flows. I think many of us have made the honest mistake of inserting at least on opto incorrectly. The Optos on the 9-16 side of the board are 180 degreees from orientation from the optos on 1-8.

Chuck

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Gary,

What LEDs come on solid? The heartbeat LED?

Have you been able to hook one board at a time to the computer and set the ID yet?

Hook one of the boards up the computer, power on and launch the HWU, on the left side select any and then the ID you want for that board.

Chuck

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Ok I finally narrowed down the problems on this board.
I had a bad solder joint on the U5 Flip flop chip....
Then I also had a software issue. Which cured itself with a reboot.
and now I also discovered that the U1 has gone bad. I was able to figure that out by swapping with a known good one.
so now all I need to do is find an chip somewhere. Hopefully locally so I can put these headaches behind me.
My bullheaded I know I can fix this attitude won out again over my I'm lazy give up attitude:cool::P

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