Joe Noe Posted November 15, 2008 Share Posted November 15, 2008 Hey guys... Thought I would check in and see if anyone had any suggestions before I contact LOR.No blinking LED....No solid LED.... Just no LED period.I have 14 1602W's on my network. Today, I decided to test everything, and my unit I have set to ID of 6 was dead. Checked and confirmed that I have power going into the unit. Sometimes if I flip the power off and on, it will light up a few sections of the controller, but not according to any sequence I have running...just static. It also only lit one side of the controller when doing this. I swapped out the fuses to see if the lighted section would follow, and it didnt...telling me it's not a fuse problem. That controller seems to be causing issues on the network when it's on, and it will sometimes cause the network to crash, even though the sequence is still running. If I power that controller off, this doesn't happen. All of the controllers downstream from this one are working, so I can rule out any kind of network issue.I went into the hardware utility and scanned the network to see if there was anything I could do with it in there. The scan only returns 13 controllers, skipping the one that's giving me the issues.This is a controller I purchased in 2008.I did take the fuse/power cover off to see if I could locate anything visibly bad, and nothing looks wrong at a glance.Any suggestions?Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmoore60 Posted November 15, 2008 Share Posted November 15, 2008 The electronics on the board are powered from the right side 9-16 input power. Verify with a meter that you have power on that input cable. With out the on board power supply getting power then there would be NO status light.Chuck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Noe Posted November 15, 2008 Author Share Posted November 15, 2008 cmoore60 wrote: The electronics on the board are powered from the right side 9-16 input power. Verify with a meter that you have power on that input cable. With out the on board power supply getting power then there would be NO status light.ChuckYep.. I'm with you there. Power on both input cables.Would it hurt to bypass the outboard fusing and pop the fuses back into the board as the old controllers were?Keep the suggestions coming! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmoore60 Posted November 15, 2008 Share Posted November 15, 2008 I do recall some issues being mentioned about the external fuse holders having a problem with connection. So if that is what your asking about bypassing and putting the fuse on the circuit board. I see no problem with that for testing purposes. If that works then I would recommend that you contact LOR about a permanent solution.Chuck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Noe Posted November 16, 2008 Author Share Posted November 16, 2008 Tried fusing the board directly and still no luck. Any other ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmoore60 Posted November 16, 2008 Share Posted November 16, 2008 Do you have a digital volt meter?Can you verifiy voltage on both sides of the fuse, in reference to neutral?Chuck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Noe Posted November 16, 2008 Author Share Posted November 16, 2008 Yes, I did that too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmoore60 Posted November 16, 2008 Share Posted November 16, 2008 Joe,Here is a troubleshooting guide. http://www.lightorama.com/Documents/Kit_Troubleshooting_Guide.pdfI know it says kits, but is still pretty good to use on even preassembled controllers. If you cannot figure it out, I suggest contacting LOR for their aid.Chuck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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