kenvel23 Posted December 4, 2018 Posted December 4, 2018 I have two CTB04-PC-ELL controllers that will not retain their unit ID. With the unit powered off, I set the DIP switches to "11" (000010001). power the unit up...HU sees it as Unit 01. the used the HU to re-ID it from 01 to 11.It successfully re-ID the controller to unit 11 and it responds perfectly using HU. I unplug the unit, refresh....it reverts back to Unit 01. I have reset the unit unit using the #12 Dip switch. results are the same..Unit 01. Out of desperation, I have tried via network cable and via ELL.... reset with dip switches set to 01 and 11....Any ideas?
TheDucks Posted December 4, 2018 Posted December 4, 2018 38 minutes ago, kenvel23 said: I have two CTB04-PC-ELL controllers that will not retain their unit ID. With the unit powered off, I set the DIP switches to "11" (000010001). power the unit up...HU sees it as Unit 01. the used the HU to re-ID it from 01 to 11.It successfully re-ID the controller to unit 11 and it responds perfectly using HU. I unplug the unit, refresh....it reverts back to Unit 01. I have reset the unit unit using the #12 Dip switch. results are the same..Unit 01. Out of desperation, I have tried via network cable and via ELL.... reset with dip switches set to 01 and 11....Any ideas? Be sure Switch 12 is NOT O(N. That is a full RESET
kenvel23 Posted December 4, 2018 Author Posted December 4, 2018 I have ensured I switched it back to OFF after resetting the controller. Status light is solid (it flashes rapidly when 12 is on). I have two other CTB04-PC-ELL which are working as expected.
TheDucks Posted December 4, 2018 Posted December 4, 2018 6 hours ago, kenvel23 said: I have ensured I switched it back to OFF after resetting the controller. Status light is solid (it flashes rapidly when 12 is on). I have two other CTB04-PC-ELL which are working as expected. You described proper jumper behavior. LOR ticket time
Richard Hamilton Posted December 4, 2018 Posted December 4, 2018 Just may be a dumb comment, but are you reading the dip switches in the proper orientation so you can confirm that you know which switch is the least significant bit? I used to get confused by which way to read the switches. And confirming if jumper J5 is on or off?
kenvel23 Posted December 4, 2018 Author Posted December 4, 2018 Hi Richard, The dip switch block on the ELL is quite clear... it even labels switch 12. So I don't think it is an orientation issue. I don't think the jumper (J5) is relevant to this controller. But... Thank you!
kenvel23 Posted December 7, 2018 Author Posted December 7, 2018 To provide closure on this issue, I sent in a ticket to Light-O-Rama support. Within an hour they got back to me and said that I would need to send the controllers in for replacement/repair. Reading between the line, I am assuming that it is a known defect. Thanks for trying to help! 1
kenvel23 Posted December 7, 2018 Author Posted December 7, 2018 Update: I spoke with LOR Emergency Replacement Group this morning, they had me try a few other things, that unfortunately did not pan out. I asked this was a known defect and he said it is not. LOR service is outstanding, I have a couple dozen pieces of LOR equipment (of which this is the first time I have had an equipment problem in 10 years) and it gives me great peace of mind to know they offer such fantastic service. Note: They really care if our lights are flashing, and already have 2 replacement controllers heading my way.
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