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Powering Up DMX Fixtures


Denny
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This is my first year using DMX and was curious as to how the experienced users turn on the power to their DMX fixtures. I was thinking about plugging them into X-10 appliance modules and having LOR send a signal to them. What are others doing?

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I'm just going to use a spare LOR channel off of a regular controller (not the iDMX1000) to apply power to the fixture. I intend to turn it on as a background channel (it's a Martin Mania SCX500, and takes a few seconds to reset when powered on). That way, the fixture will come on at the beginning of the show, and stay on until the last show is done for the night, same as my sign. Then, the DMX control signals will come from the sequences as they run. I have NOT tried this setup as of yet, but this should work.

D.T.

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I thought about using a regular LOR channel to turn the fixtures on, but wondered about the effect on the yolk motors as well as amperage for three fixtures. Also, none of my LOR boxes have grounds connected, so, I would need to run a ground wire to the LOR box to insure that the fixtures were grounded. Thanks for the input.

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Denny - I don't think there will be any effect on the yolk motors as long as the channel is turned on to 100% and left there. That should supply your 120v for the duration of your show, and then the DMX commands take over from there. As for your amperage, I have 4 fixtures, and the the max draw for all 4 is about 2 amps. I don't know what your power situation is, but I have more than enough juice for this addition.

D.T.

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My concern with turning the units off is condensation. I had a lot of trouble last year with my LED floods so I plan on leaving them on. Hopefully the heat from the warm electronics will prevent condensation.

As for the yoke fixture I can think of two approaches: install a heater in the waterproof enclosure ( some pro enclosures do this) or break the circuit to the lamp and install a relay that could be controlled by a data channel. Again relying of the heat of the electronics to help control condensation. Haven't made up my mind as to which way to go.


Bob

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michael.farney

I am planning on leaving mine on also. The units are not rated or designed to withstand freezing or sub zero temperates. The bulbs are hot enough to keep the unit and enclosure warm. The shutter can be closed via DMX so there will be no light even though the bulb is on.

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Michael Just be careful you don't overheat your enclosure. Those bulbs put out a bunch of heat! and those bulbs do not last very long. (at least the cheap ones I bought!....50 hours or so.)



Bob

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michael.farney

BobinFL wrote:

Michael Just be careful you don't overheat your enclosure. Those bulbs put out a bunch of heat! and those bulbs do not last very long. (at least the cheap ones I bought!....50 hours or so.)



Bob


I don't have the enclosures done yet, but they will probably have to be exhausted. I have special bulbs for mine, so I only have to change them out once per season. One fixture is rated 500 hours and the other fixture is rated 1000 hours for bulbs.



Michael
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Charles Belcher

BobinFL wrote:

...
As for the yoke fixture I can think of two approaches: install a heater in the waterproof enclosure ( some pro enclosures do this) or break the circuit to the lamp and install a relay that could be controlled by a data channel.
Bob

Bob,

Here is a link to the High End Systems Ecodome that we use for our outdoor Festival and State Fair of Texas installations. Someone could use this as a guide for a DIY project.

ftp://ftp.highend.com/pub/Products/Ecodome/manual/Ecodome.pdf

Charles
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