Septon Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 Hey Guys, So I just got my CMD24 cards from Light-O-Rama from the sale. Because I am a novice at RBG, I literally had an electrical engineer who literally builds cards with me. Please see Video below. I bought the Kit, and 2 separate CMD24 Cards. The 2 separate 24channel Cards channels 13-24 DO NOT WORK on either card. We swapped power supplies, we swapped fuses and on either card NONE of it made a difference. We tested all 6 fuses on the kit version, all 6 worked, we tested all 3 power supplies, all 3 worked on the kit version. I contacted (seeing as these cards were just purchased or more over just received less than a week ago) Light O Rama, they simply stated it was something we did and surmised they were done. LIGHT-O-RAMA Response ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Usually if a card working completely reverse polarity has been supplied but there can be other reasons. If you have two cards that have stopped working all together then most likely something is being done improperly. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- So... I imagine this happened to others if it happened to me. Can someone look at the way we hooked it up that shows what we did wrong? Someone else have the issue with this batch of cards? I honestly thought Light-O-Rama would have just stepped up... I live in this technical world and support clients all around Canada and US, shame on them. Any help please. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 Hard to see much in the video as it moves so fast...If you put a volt meter on those two inputs, what are you reading? How about a screen shot of the sequence editor or hardware utility that you are using to light up the channels? How are the channels configured? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k6ccc Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 I'm glad someone else said that about the video bouncing around so much it's really hard to follow. LOR is VERY likely right that it's something you did wrong. Very unlikely that two cards had the same failure. As Randy said, put a voltmeter on both power inlets and make sure there is correct voltage and polarity. Then move the voltmeter probe that originally was on the + terminal to one side of the fuse and verify voltage, and then to the other side of the fuse and again verify voltage. How are you determining that it's failed? By that I mean, I assume the light you have hooked up for test does not light, but what are you doing to turn on those test channels - Hardware Utility, a sequence, something else? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Septon Posted September 14, 2017 Author Share Posted September 14, 2017 I hear ya. You can PAUSE the video though as you are looking at items, it's not just for quoting anymore. **see what I did there... haha my kids would find me funny, well maybe not** As for failure... I am using the Hardware Utility. When I turn on Lights there, Channels from 13-24 are NOT responding. On both cards. It is why I have this post here, if it happened to me, it has to have happened to someone else. I can't have the only 2 cards of 100's where it would have happened. But I can't stress enough... I had an electrical engineer who does this as a living with me. When we seen a failure on Card 1, we rechecked our work, and before we hooked up card 2, we did all the proper tests, power, fuses... then hooked up card 2, and received same results. I am having my buddy come over and we will record all readings tonight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Septon Posted September 14, 2017 Author Share Posted September 14, 2017 Oh and I also swapped RBG lights as well... so swapped fuses, power and lights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibblejr Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 (edited) As Jim mentioned above. You are not providing enough information. How are you testing? Hardware utility, testbutton on controller? An electrical engineer is great but does he understand the software? Since they are both the same issue there is something other than 2 bad boards from the mfg. I had a similar issue with my first 2 pixie16's, very similar. Mine turned out to be the connectors themselves being reverse threads lefty tighty. Even though the normal righty tighty seemed to work with them the contacts just didn't work. It became a sore issue with several here but was later confirmed that others reported the same problem. Once I switched them around all was good. The other problem, do you have the correct ends of your RGB's correct. Most of mine do not have arrows but normally they should. Def could get sea sick watching that video repeatedly and I have a boat. JR Edited September 14, 2017 by dibblejr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k6ccc Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 (edited) The problem with pausing is that the resolution is so low in the video, that it's hard to see any details. Note that I am watching your video, but not listening to what (if anything) is being said as I have no sound output on this computer. In your video, you have test lights hooked up to channels 1, 2, & 3 on the near side, and channels 22, 23, & 24 on the far side. Confirm that you are trying to turn on channels 22 - 24. Have you tried all four RGB outputs on the far side, or just the channels 22 -2 4 output? Tell us EXACTLY how you are testing with the Hardware Utility. It's real easy to only be testing channels 1 - 16. 18 minutes ago, dibblejr said: The other problem, do you have the correct ends of your RGB's correct. Most of mine do not have arrows but normally they should. This is dumb RGB, so data flow direction does not apply as that's only a smart pixel issue. Edited September 14, 2017 by k6ccc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Septon Posted September 14, 2017 Author Share Posted September 14, 2017 Its ok. I will deal with it then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Septon Posted September 14, 2017 Author Share Posted September 14, 2017 Yes. I have the RBG Connectors that came with the FLOOD LIGHT package I bought. it is 10Watt Floods. I used the HARDWARE utility. I turned all lights on. I now have UNITs 1, 2, 3, 4. When I turn ALL LIGHTS ON on units 1 and 2. (2 is the CMD24 that came packaged with case, power etc) all lights on both sides come on. When I turn all lights on using the same hardware utility using Units 3 and 4. Only channels 1-12 come on. When I get back I will upload a new video slower and I will take photos. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k6ccc Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 (edited) Almost guaranteed that you have a power problem. Either you hooked it up backwards and damaged something, or you simply don't have power being delivered. Get out a voltmeter and test as requested above. Edited September 14, 2017 by k6ccc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Septon Posted September 14, 2017 Author Share Posted September 14, 2017 1 minute ago, k6ccc said: Almost guaranteed that you have a power problem. Either you hooked it up backwards and damages something, or you simply don't have power being delivered. Get out a voltmeter and test as requested above. ummm well to LIGHT-O-RAMA's credit, they came back to me in a very positive manor. All but stating they got my back regardless of issue. KUDOS on them. And... it MAY BE ME who is an idiot... Someone here wanted to see the hardware utility settings. LOR tech support asked if I tried other channels on that side.... I just looked and see 1-16... well... if this is a 24 channel, Either I am an idiot or it doesn't work. I am now thinking idiot. https://www.dropbox.com/s/q5jpwa4q9hz6x1g/Screen Shot 2017-09-14 at 1.35.01 PM.png?dl=0 Obviously on Unit 2, I hooked up the RBG on earlier channel... and 3 and 4 on the same one, past channel 16... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k6ccc Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 1 minute ago, Septon said: https://www.dropbox.com/s/q5jpwa4q9hz6x1g/Screen Shot 2017-09-14 at 1.35.01 PM.png?dl=0 On the very lower right corner there is a selection for Channel mode. One of the selections is Extended Circuit IDs. That allows you to get past channel 16. That's why I asked specifically about exactly how you were testing. That (or a slight variation of that) is exactly what I thought initially. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Septon Posted September 14, 2017 Author Share Posted September 14, 2017 Thanks Jim... I knew electrically I had it right... I ensured I did. Because I am a novice at RBG I wanted to learn from someone who knew and could teach me. But try as I may, I was still in charge of software... and I became the burden in the end haha. I will have to try when I get home, I unplugged everything. Thanks for the help... I'm sure that is it. I just looked at the video again and see I had on CMD 24 on the 13-16 channel ergo unit 2 came on, but had it on later channels on the other one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. P Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 (edited) You can also test the lights from the HU main page and not just the test console. Ater you do the search for the controllers on the main page pick the CMB24D from the drop down and it will open all 24 channels on the main page. You will see 24 little white boxes, just put a check in the boxes you want on. The boxes go in order, 123=RGB, 456=RGB and so on. Edited September 14, 2017 by Mr. P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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