JerseyTechGuy Posted December 23, 2016 Share Posted December 23, 2016 Last night I came home to find Channels 1-8 on Controller 1 dead. I checked the breaker and the box is getting power. I replaced the 15A Fast Acting Fuse on the Left Side. I had hoped the fuse would do the trick. What are other common issues to look at and check? My other controllers and all of their channels are fine. It's just Channel 1-8 on Controller 1 that is causing an issue. PS... You can get technical if need be. I am an EE. Thanks in advance for any advice or help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtomason Posted December 23, 2016 Share Posted December 23, 2016 Are you running one power cable or two? If it's one, check the power jumper on the lower center of the board between the pigtail connectors. Is there power at the fuse? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k6ccc Posted December 23, 2016 Share Posted December 23, 2016 Almost certainly a lack of power to that side of the controller. Since you are an engineer, I will put this in terms that you will understand <sarcasm mode on>. Take a digital volt meter and switch it to AC volts. Touch the voltmeter probe with the black wire to the neutral connection (normally the white wire). While holding the black wire probe to the neutral connection, touch the voltmeter probe with the red wire to one side of the fuse for the the side of the controller that feeds channels 1 - 8. If there is about 120 volts measured, move the red probe to the other side of the same fuse. If there is about 120 volts measured on both side of the fuse, then there is power to the board and the fuse is good. You can now remove both voltmeter probes from the controller. If you specify which model and version of controller, I can include photos with arrows pointing out the test locations. If you were a technician, I would not have needed to explain it in so much detail, but since you're an engineer, I felt the extra steps were needed <sarcasm mode off> I have worked with some engineers that would have not been able to accomplish the above steps without coaching, so I could not resist ... 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtomason Posted December 23, 2016 Share Posted December 23, 2016 Troll level: 50. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. P Posted December 23, 2016 Share Posted December 23, 2016 18 minutes ago, jtomason said: Troll level: 50. Only a 50? That is one of his better ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whyintheworld Posted December 23, 2016 Share Posted December 23, 2016 Where is the popcorn emoji when you need it?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JerseyTechGuy Posted December 23, 2016 Author Share Posted December 23, 2016 2 hours ago, jtomason said: Are you running one power cable or two? If it's one, check the power jumper on the lower center of the board between the pigtail connectors. Is there power at the fuse? I do have 2 separate cords from two separate outlets on two separate circuits in the home. Both Cords have power. I will check the power at the fuse later with a meter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JerseyTechGuy Posted December 23, 2016 Author Share Posted December 23, 2016 1 hour ago, k6ccc said: Almost certainly a lack of power to that side of the controller. Since you are an engineer, I will put this in terms that you will understand <sarcasm mode on>. Take a digital volt meter and switch it to AC volts. Touch the voltmeter probe with the black wire to the neutral connection (normally the white wire). While holding the black wire probe to the neutral connection, touch the voltmeter probe with the red wire to one side of the fuse for the the side of the controller that feeds channels 1 - 8. If there is about 120 volts measured, move the red probe to the other side of the same fuse. If there is about 120 volts measured on both side of the fuse, then there is power to the board and the fuse is good. You can now remove both voltmeter probes from the controller. If you specify which model and version of controller, I can include photos with arrows pointing out the test locations. If you were a technician, I would not have needed to explain it in so much detail, but since you're an engineer, I felt the extra steps were needed <sarcasm mode off> I have worked with some engineers that would have not been able to accomplish the above steps without coaching, so I could not resist ... I am getting power in both cords leading to the controller. I will check to see if I have power at and after the fuse later. Didn't have my meter handy and I was told in engineering school not to use my tongue 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtomason Posted December 23, 2016 Share Posted December 23, 2016 4 minutes ago, JerseyTechGuy said: I do have 2 separate cords from two separate outlets on two separate circuits in the home. Both Cords have power. I will check the power at the fuse later with a meter. OK. There is an option to run only one cord, and that requires the installation of a jumper to bridge the AC from one side of the controller to the other. I have most of mine configured that way since my load is quite small (love those LEDs!). Since yours is not, and you replaced the fuse, I'm hoping it's not something more serious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Arch Posted December 23, 2016 Share Posted December 23, 2016 A lot of EE's use this one. The concept is somewhat simpler to grasp. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a31ford Posted December 28, 2016 Share Posted December 28, 2016 I knew Mega would have the correct answer....... no popcorn.... HOWEVER... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lakeguy Posted December 30, 2016 Share Posted December 30, 2016 I had an issue with one controller where random channels went out. After confirming power i reset the hardware. It was a while ago, but as i recall i was able to find which dip switch i had to toggle on the lor website. Good luckSent from my LG-V500 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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