Single channel, *wireless* control

[msturtz]

Hi all--

 

My display uses some X10 modules (candles in windows come on during a 3 minute "break", as well as before and after the show).  I've had to do some work to get X10 to work throughout the house (repeaters and filters), but it's good at this point.

 

Lets suppose I have a need to control a single channel.  X10 would be fine, I only want turn off this device while the show is running, and back on after.  Except lets assume it's on the far side of the power company's transformer, and X10 won't reach it.  Its a regular 120V load, close to where my display is.

 

My first choice was going to be Insteon, since it's wireless and wired (both) and modules are readily available for not much more than X10.  However, Z-wave looks pretty cool too (it would be super cool if EasyLightLinker, which I think is Xbee under the covers, would speak to Z-Wave devices, eh?)...

 

Unfortunately LOR will only speak to that one antique X10 controller module (Feature request!!!!).

 

Any suggestions?

 

-Matt-

Edited November 16, 2015 by msturtz

[tlcj]

I will throw this out since I see no others. I am making assumptions here.

Work backwards from a requirement to have wireless.  I saw several wireless lights for sale on a famous auction site in the 10 to 20 $ range.  Plug in a x-10 module somewhere where it will work. have it power a small 115v relay with contacts. Take the remote apart and use a relay contacts to press the power button??  

 

Could you just use a channel in your display to turn the light on and off?  What I mean is it will be on during your 3 minute break.  I assume this light is across a driveway or road or something which is why I threw out first idea.

 

I still use x-10 for a few simple things, but I have replaced those in many cases with a channel when possible. I always have a few that work 90% of the time.

[msturtz]

You're on the right track with the type of light...  The requirement that it be wireless applies to the control; the light itself is 120V.  It isn't on my power transformer, so X10 won't get there from where my show PC is.  It also isn't practical to connect it to an extra channel; it isn't even on my power meter.  Also for what it's worth, I plan to turn it off during the entire show, and back on when the show is over.

 

My current thought is an Insteon 2413U (USB PLM, aka PC module ($80), and a 2475SDB switch ($60).  The rub will be how to send commands from LOR...  I found some Windows software ($35), both a desktop application and a web-server.  Worst case I could hit the web server using a command-line browser like wget/curl -- I haven't looked for those yet, but I'm sure they're out there.

 

Based on the cost, this might be a next-year thing.  Invested in a bunch of RGB this year, plus it's getting a little late to be adding more.  :-)

Edited November 20, 2015 by msturtz

[FirstClassPro]

Wireless extension cords are definitely a good option. I have been wanting to order these for a long time now, but I keep spending my money on actual devices... 

 

http://www.thinkgeek.com/stuff/41/wec.shtml

Edited November 20, 2015 by FirstClassPro

[k6ccc]

The new 4 channel AC controller with ELL build in.  Kind of a pricey solution, but it would accomplish what you need to do.

[tlcj]

I use lor to control several unusual things in my display.  I normally use a channel to power a relay at 115V input.  I use the normally open contacts in the relay to turn whatever I want on and off.  Sometimes these are dc items.  I am sure I could buy other boards to do the same, but a channel and a $5 relay give me the isolation to turn anything on and off.

I went cheap on idea 1 as I did not know the budget.

I like Jim's solution but that would be $400 if you did not already have ELL.

I remember reading about controlling pc items outside of LOR.  Something that allowed you to execute a dos command from within. It is called windows shell command.  You need an advanced license to do it I believe.  Maybe this can help you out if you have not already found it.  if you can use the pc to turn the light on and off from the command line,  maybe this will work for you.

[k6ccc]

Yes, the 4 channel controller with ELL is a bit pricey....

 

I also use a LOR channel to control a 120V relay that is controlling AC power to the two audio power amplifiers that feed the speakers in the yard.

 

I also use DOS commands regularly as well.  In my case it's generally to execute a command file that creates or appends a log file and then in some cases sends an E-Mail to me (show start and end).  Since I went right to the Advanced license as soon as I bought a license, that requirement was not an issue (and yes, I upgraded to Pro in the first hour that it was available).  If you need help with the DOS commands, I should be able to help.

[msturtz]

They key here is I can't run wires to this device.  I can install a module, but no wiring beyond what's there.  No way to control a relay from a channel, unless it's wireless.

 

The 4-channel with ELL could work depending on the size of the board once removed from the case (need small) -- but it's cost-prohibitive, since I don't use ELL presently (I would consider it if there were a handheld remote input, and maybe better ability to use inputs to control the next song...  But that's another issue entirely)...

 

(PS for K6CCC -- I wonder how many other hams are also into this hobby...  de KB0KZR)

[msturtz]

Bumping this post...  It's a year later, and I still don't have a good way to do what I want, which is to disable the street light in my yard for the duration of my show.  Now the thing is cycling on and off randomly, which is even worse.

 

I wouldn't mind sacrificing a channel -> relay wired to buttons on a wireless remote.  Although I need the receiver/controller to maintain state (on) during a power outage any of the rest of the year.

[Ebuechner]

Something like this with just a heavy duty timer you wouldn't have to sacrifice any of the channels in your show

Edited November 3, 2016 by Ebuechner

[msturtz]

I've thought about that -- I wonder if you could use an LED spot bulb?  Or even a laser or something?  In my case, the streetlight is higher up, and sodium vapor (orange color), the typical round with a shade above the bulb and the sensor up on top.  My light would need to be on my roof, assuming the sensor was pointed the right way (and my guess its not, the light is north of my house).

There's an opening on the side of the pole, and a direct-bury romex inside.  I've metered it, its 120V.  I've been thinking to just put a controller module inline.

[k6ccc]

Now that you've admitted to what you were trying to do, it might be easier to give you help.  I would take Ebuechner's idea and run with it.  Over the years, I have turned off street lights with various flashlights, spotlights, and laser pointers.  Give a few things a try.  You may find it is easier than you think.

I have a streetlight directly across the street from my house and have thought about using a laser pointer to turn it off, but in my case it's far enough from the front of my house that it's not really a problem. 

Under no circumstances would I attempt to make any wiring changes to the streetlight.  Whoever owns that light (most likely your city or county, or electric company) would almost certainly take great exception to you doing so. 

BTW, as for the light constantly cycling, call your local government to report a broken streetlight (or check their website).  Even if it's not their light (in my area, the streetlights are owned by the electric company), they will know who to report it to, and generally will be happy that you took the effort to call it in.  That way it will get fixed, so it least it's on steady rather than cycling.  Besides, other than Christmas season, you would like to have the streetlight working properly.

And to answer your comment, yes, there are a bunch of hams here.