dgrant Posted August 13, 2015 Share Posted August 13, 2015 I currently use multiple ELL's but for the time being, they are all on one network. Its only saving me from running Cat5/6 all over the yard from controller to controller and helps limit any noise induction. I could easily separate it into different networks with of course additional powered USB port RS485 adapters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulXmas Posted August 13, 2015 Share Posted August 13, 2015 Really!!!! That's awesome Spent 2 minutes looking and I was wrong (shhhh don't tell my wife). You can use ELLs to control 32 networks. I was going to sell mine now I need 3 more....when is that sale.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Papa6058 Posted August 13, 2015 Share Posted August 13, 2015 Really!!!! That's awesomeSpent 2 minutes looking and I was wrong (shhhh don't tell my wife).You can use ELLs to control 32 networks.I was going to sell mine now I need 3 more....when is that sale.... The sale is NOW! lol Papa Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
primvip Posted August 13, 2015 Share Posted August 13, 2015 How do you install or keep the ELL's when they are outside from controller to conroller? Meaning where do you place them? thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zman Posted August 13, 2015 Share Posted August 13, 2015 Right out of the manual: 1. The cable between the transceiver and thecontroller or adapter must be 25’ or less. Thetransceiver is powered by the controller(s) oran LOR USB485B adapter. A long cablecauses excessive voltage drop resulting intransceiver failure.2. The antenna should point up, be a least a footaway from any vertical surface and about 8’off the ground. If possible, try to avoidobstructions between transceivers. I usually mount them on sticks attached to controller stands or driven into the ground. I do add one more layer of protection, and cover them in a plastic ziplock bag, with a weep hole cut in the bottom to allow airflow to eliminate condensation or if water gets in, to allow it to drain out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgrant Posted August 13, 2015 Share Posted August 13, 2015 I zip tie mine on top of the controller(s) since they receive power directly from the controller itself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave S Posted October 11, 2015 Share Posted October 11, 2015 What is the highest amount of boxes that can be run from a ELL ? Last year I had 7 running off one ELL.. This year I will be adding 2 more...Still possible? Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgrant Posted October 11, 2015 Share Posted October 11, 2015 (edited) I think it depends more on how many commands you are processing on them. An ELL or LOR RS485 comm buss, can talk too 64 devices on that singe buss without a problem. However, if you were sending a gazzilion commands to all devices on that buss, its not going to work as fast as needed for lights to music. I'm going to try 13 controllers on mine this year, single ELL buss. Now during my initial testing, its its running too slow, then I'm ready to separate into two different ELL buss's as I already have the extra ELL's and another powered LOR adapter. Edit: changed to 13 controllers for this year. Ran 11 on it last year. Yes, I know I'm stretching the limits Edited October 11, 2015 by dgrant 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgrant Posted October 11, 2015 Share Posted October 11, 2015 (edited) Let me clarify just so there's no mistake: I'm at this moment, running a single ELL buss from LOR's powered adapter. Last year, I did multiple ELL transceivers in the yard to locations that I didn't wish to run a Cat5/6 too and they all worked nicely. Last year I ran 11 controllers off it with no problems. I also ran a E1.31 controller but that was on a TCPIP buss and again, wireless. Edit: Wireless on the E1.31 buss was NOT accomplished with the ELL's. It was accomplished with a TCPIP N-wireless Bridge and matching N-Router. Output from the TCPIP port on the computer to a GBSwitch, then wired Cat6 to the bridge, wireless to the router, then to the controller via TCPIP Cat6. Edited October 11, 2015 by dgrant Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave S Posted October 11, 2015 Share Posted October 11, 2015 Thanks dgrant !! Answers my question...I should be alright with 9 CTB16 boxes..All LED... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jstorms Posted October 11, 2015 Share Posted October 11, 2015 My house was wired with cat5 for phone. I repurposed the wiring for Ethernet, but the line that runs to the outside I use for my LOR stuff. Gets me from the master closet to the front of the house. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD123 Posted October 12, 2015 Author Share Posted October 12, 2015 Just an update. I decided to skip most of the ELL issue and ran weatherproof ethernet connectors under the eves of the house along with power. I used this ethernet feed-through connector: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DV2BTGS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00 It's pricy, but does the trick. Now I have power & LOR connectivity on the roof with no need for many extension cords at all. Best of all, it's a really clean install and greatly reduces the yearly setup time. It was just a pain running the wires to the connectors under the eves. I do have one section of roof that I didn't get to this year. Thankfully LOR came out with the CTB04-PC-ELL which is a controller with a build in ELL. That should do the trick for the other area of the roof. I ran an ELL into the attic of the house - it should easily reach the wireless segment of the roof. Even if that does not work, I have options to daisy chain off of the other hard wired segments. Also simplified install by adding 1' Ethernet cables to each of the CCB controllers. Then purchased weatherproof connectors to run Ethernet cable to the plugs under the eves. That way I don't have to open the CCB controller while I'm on the roof - I just hang the controller, and connect via the weatherproof connector. The less time I have to be on a roof in Colorado in the winter the better! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Arch Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 Good idea, but wow! Kinda pricey. These will do the same job for you and make Dan & Mike happy at the same time. http://store.lightorama.com/rjwada.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD123 Posted October 13, 2015 Author Share Posted October 13, 2015 Great minds! Looks the same as the ones I built! Wonder what other things I am missing buried on the LOR site! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary N Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 I used an electrical 90, with a removed back that I mounted to the out side of the house, (can't remember the name of it). I went with this became of speaker wire, cat 5, etc. I put insulation in it with the wires when in use. When i'am not using I put 1" caps both in side and out. Not so great looking, but it would have 3 holes to get everything into the house. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a31ford Posted November 3, 2015 Share Posted November 3, 2015 (edited) Just to add a "tid-bit" to all of this... The cable that runs the LOR network (For those that do not know) even though it is a "Cat 5" cable there are only 2 wires used th run the network, in the case of powered stuff (Example the "ELL's" (Easy Light Linkers)) there is also an extra 2 wires that are used for power TO the ELL (from the dongle or the first controller on the other side of the ELL link). The network is based on RS-485 (No you CANNOT use RS 232). The 485 network is a "Differential" method of communication, where as 232 is a baud rate based system (with more than 2 wires). The IMPORANT things about the 485 style network: 1) The cable MUST be "twisted pair" (for the data cable only) the power portion could be zip cord (SPT2 for example) and the data could be "bell wire". 2) The way a 485 network works is voltage differential from wire to wire, NOT with reference to earth or "ground" (RS 232 is with reference to earth). 3) For short network runs, point to point works OK, HOWEVER if you are like me and have over 1800 feet of network cable, you SHOULD use "terminators" at the far ends of the network. "Far ends".... there are people that put the computer, director, ELL (what have you) "inline" on the network cable, and there are controllers on each side of the network. In this case, a terminator would be in the last controller at "each end". In my case, my Director is at one end of the network, and the cable goes from there to controller, controller, etc. to the last controller, so one terminator is at my G3 Director and the other is in the last controller box "at the other end". In short, IF you think you are getting "weird" stuff happening on your network it would be a good Idea to use a PAIR of terminators. Oh, I almost forgot... the terminators are simply a 120 ohm resistor placed ACROSS the data wires. REMEMBER, one at each end of the network (so you need two...) This solution fixed a problem I was having, AND might I add, AS NETWORK SPEED INCREASES, the need for proper impedance termination (network termination) becomes more critical...... Greg These simply get connected to the last cable at each end, THEN you simply plug them into the controller director, ell, or computer dongle Edited November 3, 2015 by a31ford Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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