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Smart pixel controller recommendations


beckntrav

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I am ready to jump into smart pixels.  I would have gone with the LOR PixCon16 but it's not yet available. So I need recommendations for the next best available.  I have an all LOR system and plan to add 1500 led modules to start.  From what I've read, I need a E1.31 compatiable system for the WS2811 modules I am purchasing. 

 

Recommendations?

 

My Hardware:

Qty Item Description Link 8 RGBF-10W 10Watt Flood http://store.lightorama.com/rgbfl10wa.html 1 CMB24D RGB controller http://store.lightorama.com/cmdedcca3.html 6 CTB16PC Light Controller http://store.lightorama.com/reseadct.html 1   Gen3 Mini Director with MP3 Player http://store.lightorama.com/midiwimp3pl.html

 

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Until LOR has their's available, at the moment, there are a few. SanDevices E682 and others they carry. The JoshuaSystems P12S card. Also the HolidayCoro AlphaPix16 and similar. Each has their good and bad points. Its more of a case of how you intend to wire things, control things and etc..before making a choice of which controller to use.

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I would not recommend the AlphaPix16 at this time.  It is brand new and it seems to be very buggy and the support for it has been non-existent.   I too keep waiting for the LOR PixCon 16.  I plan to purchase a total of 4 of these 16 channel E1.31 controllers.  I wish there was a clear winner which one I should invest in.

 

hope that helps.

 

Tim

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dgrant, I am using all Cat5 to my controllers.  I was hoping to continue along the same lines and use a switch if needed.  I planned to using my Mini Director but may run a direct line from my control PC in the basement.

 

Is there a side by side comparison of the most popular devices? (ie. existing post)

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I am running an Advatek Pixlite 16 and am having no problems. Easy to use and set up. Though I'm getting an AlphaPix 16 with another set up. When it arrives in August I'll be able to do a side by side comparison. Hopefully, if it does have any bugs there is a firmware fix before I get it running for the 2015 season.

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I've had good luck with the sandevices cards, running one E682 and 2 E6804's, assembled from kits. Easy to setup and use

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dgrant, I am using all Cat5 to my controllers.  I was hoping to continue along the same lines and use a switch if needed.  I planned to using my Mini Director but may run a direct line from my control PC in the basement.

 

Is there a side by side comparison of the most popular devices? (ie. existing post)

I'm finding that I like the versatility of the P12S more than I do the other cards, however, it only has 12 output ports on it. The others I mentioned, both have 16 outputs. Now the P12S you can put three strings in series and reverse any of them as needed. You still have to do power injection. The E682 board is designed to use every available channel there is so its programming must follow that logic. The 16 ports are in groups of 4 so all 4 ports in a group, must use the same pixel type and RGB, GRB, BRG and etc...programming, again, groups of four. The board is split in half as far as power is concerned, so two groups of four, must be like 5 volt types or 12 volt types...so that's an extra consideration. The alphapix16 has the 16 ports, each able to be configured individually but you can only reverse the entire string, regardless of if you have 2 or 3 strings in series. Its very easy to configure though. I'm not at home to look at it but I'm only remembering one set of power inputs on it, but I'm thinking there are probably two. Truly I'm not sure as I'm not there to look at it.

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dgrant, I am using all Cat5 to my controllers.  I was hoping to continue along the same lines and use a switch if needed.  I planned to using my Mini Director but may run a direct line from my control PC in the basement.

 

The way you wrote that makes it sound like you were going to connect the E1.31 controller to your LOR network. This can be done with the Pixcon16 but not with others. Also, you can't have an ethernet switch on an LOR network.

And you have to use a PC. The mini director cannot do E1.31 (Acctually, it is possible, but not the best way to do it).

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Oh I agree completely. Do not mix up the LOR RS485 network and the E1.31 network via TCPIP. They are two different animals and cross-connecting them will cause things to fry for sure!!! Personally for me, I use the ELL's for the LOR RS485 traffic to the normal LOR controllers. For E1.31, I'm going from the computer to a GB Switch/Router. It feeds to a "N-Type Bridge" which is wireless to a matching N-type Router out in the garage. From that router, I connect my Cat6 lines to the E1.31 controllers. Again, Never, Do Not, connect the LOR buss to the TCPIP buss. They are NOT compatible. I can't speak for the mini directors as I have zero experience with them and don't own one.

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This is helping a lot!! So my first hope was to add a smart controller into my current LOR system via another cat 5 cable. Looking at the sequence software, I don't see E1.31 devices but do see DMX. Are these controllers DMX?

Again, this is helping me a lot and I appreciate it!

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So my first hope was to add a smart controller into my current LOR system via another cat 5 cable. 

 

That would have let the magic smoke out.

 

Yes, E1.31 is a type of DMX

The channels will be DMX. You tell it it is actually E1.31 in the network config.

In the network config, click on the table on one of the universes, and there are two round check boxes. One is for normal DMX with an adapter and the other for E1.31.

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Adding to the above, again, make sure you do NOT "think" that the LOR buss is the same as a E1.31 buss....they are NOT and connecting them to each other, will FRY things fast. Yes, they use the exact same Cat5/6 cables but the data, power and etc... on them, are NOT compatible. As stated, there is a way to configure them all into a formal DMX buss but I have no clue how to do that but others much smarter than I, do know how. I prefer to keep the two completely separate and not chance anything burning something.

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The nice thing about the LOR PixCon 16 is that it can run off of a LOR network, but not being able to get them is the real problem.

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David Pitts has his F16v2 that looks very, very nice. Design leverages some of the genius that John put into the SanDevices E682.

 

Plus you can connect an expansion board via a ribbon cable and double the capacity. (not shown)

Plus it has a connector underneath for a FalconPi if you are so inclined. (not shown)

It has heat sensors, and has a little display on the board itself so you can configure it w/o a PC.

Comes with 4 RS485 jacks so it can be used as a DMX bridge.

 

19493945614_1b77248f03_b_d.jpg

Refresh rate: 40 times per second output to pixels.

Power
Board can be powered from pixel power or external power. Both inputs can be 5-24VDC.
Power output port to power switches. 
An additional optional 5-24V switched regulator can be added to give an additional 1.5A of power if needed on a 2-pin connector.
Two independent sides of power. Each one can be a different voltage. 
(Expansion board also has two independent pixel power inputs giving 4 independent ports of input power when using 32 string mode and expansion board)
16 - Fused outputs for main board and expansion board.

Number of strings
16 strings or 32 with expansion board.
All strings can use any of the 32768 channels this controller can receive as a start address.
Each string can be independently configured for null nodes, zigzag, forward/reverse, node type, pixel count , grouping etc...

Pixel per string
680 pixels per string in 16 string mode or 340 pixels per string with additional expansion board ($40US) using 32 string mode.

String Types
All string ports can be any of the following string types. They all can be independently set. 
WS2801 / WS2803
WS2811 / WS2812 / TM1804 / TM1803 / TM1809 / TM1812 / SM16715 / INK1003
TLS3001 / TLS3002 / CY3005
LPD6803 / D705 / LPD1101 / USC6909 / UCS6912

String Types to be added in near future
1903,SM16716,MBI6020,GE Color Effects, P981x, APA102
(We can fit two more in current image. Additional formats will be added to an additional image which will be held in flash making switching images as easy as selecting image in user webpage interface.)

DMX/Renard/Pixelnet Outputs
4 - Dedicated RS-485 outputs

LCD Display,Push Buttons and Indicators
.96" OLED 128x64 matrix display for setup and status.
5 - Push buttons to control display. Up, Down, Right, Left and Select
Power LED for main fuse/pixel board
Power LED for FPGA/Controller Board
Two multi purpose LEDS for status.

Temperature Sensors
1 - Processor temperature sensor.
2 - Additional Sensors 
(The sensors are like a little 2" two core wire. Additional wire can be added to move sensor out of enclosure to give ambient temperature outside.
One sensor will be mounted on the board and the other will be provided with unit.)

Voltage sensors
The incoming pixel voltages of main board are detected and displayed in user interface. (Display of voltages and temperatures of OLED is coming)

Raspberry PI Interface for running Falcon Player (FPP)
The controller in near future will have ability to connect directly to a RPi running FPP. In this configuration the controller can operate as a standalone controller with audio and video making it one of the most powerful platforms for driving RGB lights, music and video. All configuration of controller will be embedded into the standard FPP user interface.

Open Source
All files to produce software/firmware will be released at a near future date.

Notes: 
1) Expansion board must be within 1.5 feet of main board. Maybe further but no guarantee.
2) Pictures below do not show the newly added OLED display and push buttons.
3) Pictures below do not show that the Pixelnet input section has been removed.
4) Also two holes have been added to FPGA board to hold Phy connector secure with a zip tie.

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I'm hesitant to buy a controller without understanding how to mash the LOR and DMX networks into 1 show.

Can anyone point me to a tutorial?

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I'm hesitant to buy a controller without understanding how to mash the LOR and DMX networks into 1 show.

Can anyone point me to a tutorial?

At first it seems complicated and overwhelming but once you figure it out and the switch flips it's very easy to make it all work. The differences are what controller you end to using, that will be the main difference in setting it up

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