bob_moody Posted December 16, 2014 Share Posted December 16, 2014 I know there are differences in the CTB16PC when it comes to using inputs having read the docs on the input connector and having to move a pin jumper .. Question... Can you access the CTB16PC inputs without the Input connector board? I need 1 input for a special sequence trigger... Bob 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boatdog357 Posted December 19, 2014 Share Posted December 19, 2014 I have that same question. I am looking to make a coin collection box that triggers a random sequence. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob_moody Posted December 19, 2014 Author Share Posted December 19, 2014 (edited) I submitted a ticket and DevMike replied that with the v1 controllers our only option is the inputpup device. If you have newer controllers (v3) then yes you can get the cheaper input headers. Edited December 19, 2014 by bob_moody Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grump010 Posted December 19, 2014 Share Posted December 19, 2014 Wouldn't this work for a gen 1 controller: http://store.lightorama.com/ctinco3in.html Daryl B. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob_moody Posted December 19, 2014 Author Share Posted December 19, 2014 (edited) Daryl, I thought exactly the same thing ..I submitted a Help Desk ticket and was told no... I thought it was funny that in HWU it show 3 inputs etc and the specs on the device you pointed out seem to say that it will. Even specifies NOT for Gen3 and there are a couple of other breakout trigger boards that say ONLY for Gen3 .. I've recently learned of a few other things the CTB16PC V1 wont do .. so .. It to late now to do what I wanted to do,so i have a year to figure out a best move .. Bob Maybe DevMike will drop by with the who, what, where, when and how ... Edited December 19, 2014 by bob_moody Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boatdog357 Posted December 19, 2014 Share Posted December 19, 2014 you have 3 inputs you do not need a a board. I used a audio connector from a cd rom drive. one ground and the rest are the triggers used by the same ground. hope this helps. and you must shedule them in the show editor and the shedule. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob_moody Posted December 19, 2014 Author Share Posted December 19, 2014 (edited) you have 3 inputs you do not need a a board. I used a audio connector from a cd rom drive. one ground and the rest are the triggers used by the same ground. hope this helps. and you must shedule them in the show editor and the shedule. BD ... There are 18 pins ... Which are the 3 inputs ? Looking at the LOR diagram .. It seems Gnd + Input = trigger ... I know the #2 pair (J0?) is required for normal operation .. But there are 7 other pairs below it .. (pair 3 thru 9) Heck .. I'll give it a shot ... Thanks for the heads up .. Bob Edited December 20, 2014 by bob_moody Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grump010 Posted December 19, 2014 Share Posted December 19, 2014 I have a few of those boards and a couple spare controllers, I will try these boards and let you know if they work. Hopefully I'll get to this before heading to Vegas on Sunday, if not I'll post the results on boxing day. Daryl B. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob_moody Posted December 20, 2014 Author Share Posted December 20, 2014 Daryl, I called ahead and had you put on the "no fly to Vegas list" pending your posting of the input and ground pin locations. Okay... Not really.... I do appreciate any input (no pun intended) you can offer... Thank you kindly Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grump010 Posted December 20, 2014 Share Posted December 20, 2014 Bob,I really want to go to Vegas so here are the results:Board works fine, input trigger 1 cannot be used on the small PCB as it is the pin 2 jumper for reset etc. per documentation for CTB16K and CTB16PCInput 2 and 3 work like champsI followed the traces for the pinouts using a meter as I couldn't see the tracesGround =1 and 17Trig 2 = 13Trig 3 = 14The ctbhdr1 pcb does have resisters between the switch connection point and the J0 pinouts which I measured at 240 ohms.To sum this up, the CTB-HDR1 pcb works on a Ver1 controller just fine. I have two of the boards and would recommend to just buy them on your next order as they are a neat and clean install for switches. Now can I go to Vegas ;^) and leave some of my Canadian loonies behind?? Cheers and Merry Christmas Everybody Daryl B. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob_moody Posted December 20, 2014 Author Share Posted December 20, 2014 (edited) Thank you kind Sir, the ban has been lifted!!!!!! Lol Enjoy "Lost Wages".... Errrrr Las Vegas.... I'm sure you will come back with a pocket full of money and million new lighting ideas. OK...maybe not the money part..... Safe trip.... Merry Christmas Thanks again.... Bob Edited December 20, 2014 by bob_moody Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob_moody Posted December 20, 2014 Author Share Posted December 20, 2014 (edited) Funny thing. DevMike told me I was a no-go...I did a quick test in HWU and all 3 triggers show green ...aka already triggered. A jumper with a 220 ohm resistor had zero effect in changing states on IN2 or 3. CTB16PC v1 (green Alex board) with firmware 4.32 Maybe inputpup is my only avenue.... Unless it doesn't work in HWU and need to set up a show to test.... Edited December 20, 2014 by bob_moody Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grump010 Posted December 20, 2014 Share Posted December 20, 2014 Check your triggers to see if they are set to NC - normally closed or NO - normally open, check and change this on the configure page. With NO the trigger will show green because its in the correct state, it should change when you press a button. Position 1 will be green as that is the jumper on the second row (pins 3 and 4) that's why only triggers 2 and 3 are usable. I'm taking my LT and will check in to see how you make out with this, I've got the same card and SW as you are using. Pin #'s are as follows:Top edge of card___________1 23 45 67 89 1011 1213 1415 16 CheersDaryl B. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob_moody Posted December 21, 2014 Author Share Posted December 21, 2014 Daryl, Quick update.... YOU .. my friend .. are the MAN!!! You called it ..I went back out to the shop and played around with it some more ..I'm not sure its working 100%... but .. if I change IN2 and IN3 to NC, then update the unit .. it works like a charm ..However .. in NO ... closing the switch .. nada ... This may be because I dont have the input board and I'm missing some signal .. but the NC connection with a 22Ohm resitor ..Fires it off every time ... thanks again .. have a good time in Vegas .. Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grump010 Posted December 21, 2014 Share Posted December 21, 2014 Bob,Happy you made progress, I didn't try it without the pcb so I don't know if it would make a difference. Daryl B. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob_moody Posted December 21, 2014 Author Share Posted December 21, 2014 I'm going to order a couple tomorrow. Like I said this isn't a make or break for this year. Thanks again Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob_moody Posted January 31, 2015 Author Share Posted January 31, 2015 Just thought I would update my post on this subject. First... let me fully qualify my setup. I have 10 CTB16PC (Green "Alex") board.I went ahead and ordered the Input connector ( http://store.lightorama.com/ctinco3in.html ) I installed the board as per the instructions by removing the jumper on the second pair of pins and moving it to the input connector.I brought up the LOR HWU and found my board.I clicked over to check inputs. As described. SW1 is already checked and unusable in this config. This leaves you 2 switchs (SW2 and SW3)I used a jumper tied to the GND and touched the connector for PIN2 and the checkbox lit up. I then tested for SW3 and it lit up ..Okay .. so far.. so good.I then created a quick test show using the Interactive tab.I told to use "Soundboard" and then set up to use SW2 and one of my sequences.I created a second entry also as Soundboard and set up to use SW3 and a different sequence.I ran a show on demand. It told me it was registering the interactive switches and sat there and waited.I touched the jumper (GND to SW2) and the sequence started playing.While it played I touched the jumper (GND to SW3) and the 1st sequence stopped and the sexond sequence played ..So............... IT WORKED LIKE A CHARM !!! So I am a little confused why the LOR HelpDesk told me it wouldnt work .. but .. I'm golden for what i need .. So I only bought one which of course gives me only 2 switches ..I have to wonder .. if I put an input connector or several boxes could you effectively add more switches?So if had one in say 4 boxes, do i now have 8 switches to utilize? Thats my story (and since it works.... )I'm sticking to it ... Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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