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LOR controlled train possible?


Denny

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I am well into the planning stages for my 2015 show and am considering adding some G-gauge, large scale trains the display.  I have a large layout in the backyard, but want to put a couple temporary, simple loops into the display next year.  I figure I can use the DIO 32 with attached Relay Board to activate the power supply for the trains, however, I would also like to control the speed - don't want them flying around the track and going airborne.  Thought about using a DC controller, but not sure about the amperage limitations of the board and what effect the circuitry in the train controllers would have on the LOR DC circuitry.  Has anyone used LOR to control a train or have any suggestions?

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I was contemplating doing something similar, all via ELL and yes, I think its very possible. I ended up not doing this because of the lack of storage space for all that components of a train system here. I was going to include on-board animation along with rgb type lighting, all remote controlled from the sequence. Yes, operate on a car battery that would make an electrical contact when back in the stop location to recharge. Servos, high power dmx modules and all sorts of possible ways to accomplish this.

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I was contemplating doing something similar, all via ELL and yes, I think its very possible. I ended up not doing this because of the lack of storage space for all that components of a train system here. I was going to include on-board animation along with rgb type lighting, all remote controlled from the sequence. Yes, operate on a car battery that would make an electrical contact when back in the stop location to recharge. Servos, high power dmx modules and all sorts of possible ways to accomplish this.

I did this a few years ago with one of those kids ride on trains.  Did the same thing with the ELL and a DC board.  The train motor was 6VDC and the LEDs were 12 VDC, so the split voltage capability of the CMB16 was great.  The only bad thing, one night, some little one got on it and bent the axle, so it only lasted that one year.

 

My plan for next year is for the small garden variety of trains like LGB.  The wife wants to make the base of the mega tree look like a drum and then we want to run one of the trains around the top of the drum.  I also have an auto reversing unit where I could run another train point to point.  Was thinking about doing a song or two from Polar Express next year and the trains would fit right into that scenario.

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Up here in Edmonton, AB Canada there is a 6 volt child's riding train with a coal car (for a Teddy Bear) that comes with it's own 24ft set of tracks (The right size for my yard). I was thinking of getting it &  lifting it about 18 inches off the ground. Buy a couple of 6 volt Batteries for spares & run it for a couple hours a day.

 

If I went G-Scale then I would need to totally cover it so it won't get snowed, freezing rain on, or stolen.

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Did you do a google search? There have been several Threads about this over the past 5 years.

I remember some of those threads, but they didn't really pertain to what I want to do.  My main concern is the effect a DC controller might have on the digital signal from the power supply.  Thought someone may already have some experience; I'm 100% Aristocraft large scale and they send a signal encoded in the DC to the track. Don't want to mess up my Aristocraft power packs, the DC controllers, or the circuit boards in the locomotives.  Thinking about it, I might just do it all manually since the trains might grow legs and walk away if unattended.

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Up here in Edmonton, AB Canada there is a 6 volt child's riding train with a coal car (for a Teddy Bear) that comes with it's own 24ft set of tracks (The right size for my yard). I was thinking of getting it &  lifting it about 18 inches off the ground. Buy a couple of 6 volt Batteries for spares & run it for a couple hours a day.

 

If I went G-Scale then I would need to totally cover it so it won't get snowed, freezing rain on, or stolen.

Trying to remember how I did this; I know I had the ELL inside the seat of the ride on car and connected the DC controller.  The motor was 6 volts and the LEDs were 12 volt.  Had two small 6 volt batteries in a second trailing car.  I think I wired the two batteries to get 12 volts for the LEDs and the DC controller and that was attached to one bank of the DC board.  To run the motor, I wired one six volt battery to the other bank to power the motor.  I bypassed all the switches and controls installed in the locomotive.

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What ever Denny. Did you bother to say all of that in your first post? NO. Do I really care if what I said and what was said in any of those past post. NO But I did make an effort, even if It was only a reminder that there have been threads discussing this issue of trains and LOR. So, a simple thanks for reminding or nothing would have worked. But taking the time to explain that my help was no help cause you failed to give more details. Well your welcome Denny even if it was not what you where looking for. I'll remember how ungrateful you where and be sure not to bring you down with useless info in the future.

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What ever Denny. Did you bother to say all of that in your first post? NO. Do I really care if what I said and what was said in any of those past post. NO But I did make an effort, even if It was only a reminder that there have been threads discussing this issue of trains and LOR. So, a simple thanks for reminding or nothing would have worked. But taking the time to explain that my help was no help cause you failed to give more details. Well your welcome Denny even if it was not what you where looking for. I'll remember how ungrateful you where and be sure not to bring you down with useless info in the future.

Max-Paul, you are right.  I should have expanded more and will in the future.  Too many irons in the fire at the time I was trying to ask the question, not the least of which was a 4 year old grandsonwhose goal at the time was to interrupt and be the center of attention.  Sorry about that.

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My plan for next year is for the small garden variety of trains like LGB.  The wife wants to make the base of the mega tree look like a drum and then we want to run one of the trains around the top of the drum.  I also have an auto reversing unit where I could run another train point to point.  Was thinking about doing a song or two from Polar Express next year and the trains would fit right into that scenario.

 

Take a look at our site.

http://moodychristmas.weebly.com

 

I believe we have been doing exactly what your describing.

The base is a hay ring

The red on the bottom is a 2' x 24' banner we had made

There are 2x6 cross members under the base to support it ... 1st year I used plywood and painted it .. didnt last.. 2nd year I used thicker ply and painted it .. didnt last... this year the base is made from 10mm coroplast ... should work pretty well ...

Dont waste you money on any other type of track besides brass... Looking back at your post .. I realize you are already a train guy .. so .. as "Capt. Obvious.." ... you're welcome ..

I started with a bachman annie ... P.O.Cr@p....

Running an LGB train and powered tender now .. clock work in motion ..

 

Bob

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Bob, That is some display.  I swore I wasn't going to add any new elements next year that required modifying my sequences, but love the candy canes and your arches.  With a 100 ft coil of pex in the back yard for two years, looks like some of it will be put to use next year.  May have to get some of those candy canes next year too.  (Have to stop looking at other's displays!) 

 

Anyway, regarding the train ....  Are you using a vinyl skirt around the base of the ring?  I assume you are using the coro for the top?  Not too familiar with the LGB power, does it use PCM and how are you controlling the train?  Do you use a LOR controller with your power supply?  Wondering if I can just use a regular 24 volt switching power supply and a DC controller and leave the regular train power supply out of the mix.  I got one of those Aristocraft Christmas trains when they went out of business last year with the 20 ft shorty cars.  Supposed to run on 4 ft diameter track, but that is really too tight.  Used it under the Christmas tree last year, but decided not to use it this year.  I think I will use 10 ft diameter track under the mega tree next year.  Have brass and stainless steel track, also 4 cases of 5 ft aluminum for on board battery operation.  I think that will not be feasible for Christmas though. 

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Denny,

 

Thank you for the kudos ... we appreciate it ...

 

The train:

 

The frame as I mentioned is a actually a hay ring turned over.

The skirt is vinyl, I went to a sign shop and had a 2' x 24' vinyl banner made with eyelets every 12"... In hindsight it could be a little wider .. maybe 2' 4" and it doesnt close in the back. Could be another 12 to 18 inches longer .. BUT .. its in the back and it provides me an access panel to under the tree.

 

The pics and vids you see now are the old tree. This year the incan tree has been replaced with a 12 string 180 pixel treel.

The top is now 10mm coro with 2x6 spaced 15" (edge measurements)

The track is LGB brass. Had a fiasco with bachman steel and threw every piece in the garbage.

 

The frame is 8' in diameter.

I use 12 pieces of curved track and 8 pieces of straight to make the circle..

It sits nicely inside the frame and since I am using a smaller loco (also LGB) it rides the rails without a problem.

 

As for power, I use the old Bachman power pack I had and an X10 module to start it up everynight in a pre- show sequence (powered by LOR)

I am NOT a train expert by any stretch of the imagination. Had it not been for a fellow member here (goes by JimH) I would have given up on the train a long time ago.

Jim did not recommend hitting the train with instant on power... concerns over the motor, gears and drive train where at issue...

 

However.. I am still doing that somewhat ... But i have the train set to about 70% and it seems to tolerate running 4 to 5 hours at that rate without issues.

From what I know (which AINT much) the Arstocraft trains are 1st class machines ...

 

I think I answered all your questions .. and if not .. let me know and I'll see if I can offer an answer.

 

Bob

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Bob,

Thanks for the additional info.  Will have to make my frame of pvc, no hay bale rings around here.  The base of my tree is 3 pieces of 10ft electrical conduit, so I should be able to just make a duplicate for the ground and connect them with uprights.  Without doing the geometry, it's about 10 ft in diameter.  Will definitely go the coro route.  I think you will be happy with the LGB.  Word of caution on the car wheels, if they are plastic, they will eventually leave a residue on the track that affects conductivity.  If you use smoke fluid in your loco, you can use smoke fluid to clean the track too.  That plastic residue can be a real pain.  It is recommended that you don't use anything abrasive to clean the track, leaves small scratches that can collect dirt.  That said, I use a drywall sander with the finest grit I can find.  Since I have a set up in the back yard, I just attach it to a pole and don't have to get on the old knees to clean.  Bachman makes some good equipment, but not what you get in the sets you see around Christmas.  Bachman and Lionel track are steel and rust, don't use outside, if at all.  Stainless steel is great, no corrosion doesn't bend if stepped on (inadvertently tested when my horse stepped on it -- another story).  Expensive though and difficult to shape, even with a rail bjender.  I will probably just start mine manually every day and let them run throughout the show.  Don't want to leave them unattended overnight, so might as well manually start them up when I put them out. 

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In case you change your mind on the hay ring....

Tractor Supply in COOLIDGE 

950 NORTH ARIZONA BLVD

COOLIDGE,AZ 85128-3728

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